Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

External gate is VERY hard to keep hidden. Even custom jobs that I have seen where the intention was to hide the gate, it's still easily spotted if the cops are looking around. if you're worried about cops at all, I wouldn't be going external gate.

Here in the UK we don't have to worry about this defect crap. Anything goes so long as it passes an MOT test. I could have two 10 lbs NOS bottles visible, a massive bell mouth turbo, dump valves, side exit pipe, you name it. I don't even have to run a cat (but I do have an emission test to meet). It's bloody great.:thumbsup:

People car do things for all different costs, some cheaper some end up paying more.

I dare say since these setups work so well you would be best to spend the few extra dollars and making the setup 100%. Using some high temp sheathing on lines, good quality bends and reducers/flanges studs etc so you dont blow out gaskets etc or warp with temp.

A gate for $300? I paid about $500 for my Turbosmart. I paid more then $150 in just flanges, studs, gaskets and elbows + reducer. So not saying anyone was wrong but we all often pay different prices for things and I know i couldnt do my setup with external gate that cheaply

med_gallery_462_50_238480.jpg

Is that the 8cm or 10cm turbine housing mate? I like the downpipe BTW and that is the trust triangle flange? Some peeps think it's ghey but not me.:D Also I notice your turbo is mounted very close to the front of the engine compared to Greddy copy mainfolds???

Edited by Tony de Wonderful

god some of you guys complain about some stupid shit. This turbo requires a ex WG so stop complaining that the cops will see it and rape your ass... If you don't like it sell your car and buy a excel or dont Modify your car.

So far im thinking i will go a T67-25G similar to SimonR32 setup and run eflex.

Is that the 8cm or 10cm turbine housing mate? I like the downpipe BTW and that is the trust triangle flange? Some peeps think it's ghey but not me.:D Also I notice your turbo is mounted very close to the front of the engine compared to Greddy copy mainfolds???

This is the 10cm housing with the original Trust manifold I was running at the time. Yeh all Trust kit with off triangular flanges, uses to run the total Greddy kit, these days its a bastard kit with Turbosmart gate and 6boost manifold

462After_Engine_Pic.jpg

462TD06_setup.jpeg

You are right, now that i am running a 6boost manifold the turbo sits a lot further forward and required moving the PS reservoir. Does give you a little more room for the dump pipe.

For what its worth, the 6Boost manifold resulted in a loss of a smidgen of power and hurt response a little. This could be the result of there being about 18 months between dyno runs and the car had lost a bit of performance in that time. I also changed from the Greddy Type R wastegate to a Turbosmart gate.

Cant see either really contributing to a loss in performance.

Considering the new setup has nicer piping and improved exhaust system...i think its safe to say 6Boost is no better then a Greddy manifold. Possibly worse. If all the handfeeding over 6boost manifolds were true I should have picked up some response and perhaps made a tad of power, especially given the exhaust improvements.

If I was starting from a clean sheet of paper I would go a Greddy manifold over 6boost now having tried both.

Considering the new setup has nicer piping and improved exhaust system...i think its safe to say 6Boost is no better then a Greddy manifold. Possibly worse. If all the handfeeding over 6boost manifolds were true I should have picked up some response and perhaps made a tad of power, especially given the exhaust improvements.

If I was starting from a clean sheet of paper I would go a Greddy manifold over 6boost now having tried both.

Is the 6boost equal length headers also? To be honest I doubt there is much room for improvement over design for exhaust manifolds from 10 odd years ago, just maybe 6boost are strong and don't crack etc? It's just lengths of pipe at the end of the day, choose your diameter and length (equal or not too) and away you go.

Yeh the Greddy manifold is a 6 into 2, 2 into 1 type manifold with a nice collector. The 6boost manifold is pretty much equal length into a slightly longer collector.

This is the greddy manifold...

med_gallery_462_50_8967.jpg

med_gallery_462_50_198872.jpg

med_gallery_462_50_323219.jpg

No need to see pics of the 6boost manifold, there are plenty around the net.

The 6boost manifold many prove more durable, time will tell. But the above manifold is now being used on another setup by Kris with the L2 I pictured a few pages earlier. It did need a light repair on two occasions but nothing even my humble welding skills couldnt fix.

Nothing wrong at all with the 6boost manifold. They appear to be well built and plenty of people ave got years of great service out of them. I suppose the point is if you have a china manifold that is serving you well, a HKS or Trust manifold working well...then I am not sure there is any point wearing the 2K cost of replacing it with a 6boost manifold as I doubt you will get any performance increase

The one I saw was very average the collector is a nightmare and the flange was seriously warped..

post-22242-0-29322400-1324452147_thumb.jpg

post-22242-0-56924200-1324452119_thumb.jpg vs my 6 boost post-22242-0-92237800-1324452129_thumb.jpg

Is that one of the steampipe ones from nz mate?

im not fussed on chinese made etc, im running a chinese $70 one atm, but its bent and blows gaskets out on regular basis.. my chinese hi mount makes 470hp at wheels on 26psi thru gt35r on stock rb25 so i cant complain about flow 2 much.

Is that one of the steampipe ones from nz mate?

im not fussed on chinese made etc, im running a chinese $70 one atm, but its bent and blows gaskets out on regular basis.. my chinese hi mount makes 470hp at wheels on 26psi thru gt35r on stock rb25 so i cant complain about flow 2 much.

yeh its the steampipe one from NZ around the $300 range... im all for using bang for the buck parts but that manifold was rubbish and I hate doing things twice so in the end the only solution was to pickup a used 6boost...

The thing that worries me with gate on manifold is police/ pits if you get a sticker and need to go over pits to go back to standard turbo you need another manifold if it on housing pull off turbo bolt on stock turbo get a basic tune take over pits done easy as

ya thats it, I just kept my bits so if i do get the defect, (which is unlikely cause i never drive the bloody thing :/) i can have it back to stock in a weekend..

Also

thats it finished

i think mines a little more inconspicuous :P

I admit its not hidden, but it does blend in well..Only someone clued on would spot it..

And if that someone looked under the bonnet well Im probably screwed either way...

DSC03212.jpg

Not sure if i will make a bracket to fit the standard heatshield or fab up a new one out of that heatshield stuff..

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • just an update to this, poor man pays twice  Tried sanding down the pulleys but it didnt do the trick. Chucked another second hand alternator in the na car which I got for free off my mate and its fixed the squelling. Must have been unlucky with the bearings.    As for my turbo car, I managed to pick up a cwc rb alternator conversion bracket + LS alternator for 250 off marketplace, looked to be in really good nick. Installed it , started the car and its not charging the battery.... ( Im not good with auto elec stuff so im not sure if this was all I needed to do but I verified such by using a multimeter on the battery when the engine was running and I was only getting 12.2v )   I had to modify the earth strap for the new LS alternator , factory earth strap was a 10mm bolt which did not fit the bolt on the LS alternator which was double the size so I cut it off , went to repco bought some ring terminals that fit, crimped it onto the old earth strap and bolted it up to the alternator , started the car and same issue. Ran like shit and was reading 12.2 at the battery.  For a "plug and play" advertised kit thats not very plug and play but alas.  My question is , am I missing something ? Ive been reading that some people recommend upgrading the stock 80 amp alternator fuse to a 140 amp but I dont see how that would stop the alternator charging especially at idle not under load.  Regardless ive pulled it out and am going to get it bench tested by an auto elec tomorrow but it would be handy to know if ive missed something silly or have done something wrong.   
    • My wild guess is that you have popped off an intake pipe....check all of the hoses between the turbo and the throttle for splits or loose clamps.
    • Awesome, thanks for sharing!
    • To provide more specific help, more information is needed. What Android screen? What is its wiring diagram? Does the car's wiring have power at any required BAT and ACC wires, and is the loom's earth good?
    • So, now all you need to do is connect the 2 or 3x 12v feeds into the unit to permanent 12v, ACC 12V and IGN 12V that you can find in the spot behind the stereo, and the earth, and then it will switch on with the car.
×
×
  • Create New...