Jump to content
SAU Community

Kando Dynamics Turbo

SimonR32

By SimonR32,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

GTScotT Grand Master

GTScotT

Posted
Posted

Whats the difference between the TD05 and TD06? I wouldnt think there is enough wheel difference to make a difference. Is it because the TD05-18G you used was the T518Z rip off so has a different design housing?

Well I just ordered my TD05H-18G. Be interesting to see if backed to back with the TD06-20G. I am hoping I still make 250rwkws and hopefully make at least 25rwkws more at 4,500rpm.

Theres 4mm of difference between the two, and the housing in question is a TD05H specific item.. I dont believe in ground out housings unless they are proven to work. In this case Ive not heard of one of the TD06 IW housings working, yet have heard of one struggling to exceed 240kw (kando).

As for your setup, you will do it on a 10cm.. I think if I was doing a 20 I would run a TD06SL2-18g triangle 8cm. Ive read a few times over the years that a round turbine entry/flow path can give 30% more flow.. Just because its round. I think the 18g has a nicer ramp onto boost and would be good for keeping it on the boil around a track or even on the street.

Keen to see your results either way! And PM me if you have accumulated any SR spec trust housings along the way, I would be interested in buying one of these from you.

  • Replies 6k
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Popular Posts

Dale FZ1
Dale FZ1

My 30DET is now running TDO6H 25G, budget build with Hybrid manifold and 50mm Turbosmart gate. Turbine is the 11 blade option with 12cm housing. Tighe camshafts correctly dialled. Track car, chasin

R31Nismoid
R31Nismoid

And r33_racer or whatever also had around that figure too? Maybe it was 380? (struggling to recall)

T04GTR
T04GTR

are theese rubbish china turbos with a badge thats made in japan?

Posted Images

Roy Grand Master

Roy

Posted
Posted

Isn't that a fairly small setup? Found a Kinugawa chart indicating they are good for ~250 crank kW at max.

Yeh with a puny 8cm housing on my 18G it is smaller then my Greddy TD06 setup that I am retiring...but am curious to see if it makes more power then an RB20 2530 setup...but with the same if not better response then a 2530 setup.

My TD06 is going off to get some fancy dildo spec alloy compressor so whilst its off being rebuilt will throw the 18G on and compare all 3 setups back to back over about a 2 week period. Greddy TD06-20G:8cm vs TD05H-18G:8cm vs TD06-73HTA. The claim is the new compressor on the 20G will give me T67 power with 20G response. Will see.

If that claim proves wrong and with the new compressor comes extra lag then it may be interesting to throw in the T67-25G I have. Problem is trying to convince the tuner this will be interesting to him to see the merits of each turbo setup...otherwise I will be sinking 2k into tuning just out of curiousity :(

In the back of my head I am curious to see what results the billet compressor gets as there are places in the US doign 68mm billet compressors for TD05H. That could work out to be a nice RB20setup, better response of TD05 but with 20G power

GTScotT Grand Master

GTScotT

Posted
Posted

Gtscot, what made u downgrade from the mighty 1JZ to the tractor SR?? Lack of aftermarket support?

There was a 10k to do list on my JZR33 and a car I had owned previously came up for less than half that. Full prepped S14, only catch was the SR was rather tired and the wiring had been butchered since I last touched it.

Mrs bought me a spare motor with 55ks as a gift and I spent a few weeks rewiring the car. JZR33 partout price has exceeded S14 cost so far.

Simple stuff I guess, nothing like a tractor to pull you round a bend.

dori34 Grand Master

dori34

Posted
Posted

to whoever has removed the front housing off their turbo, how did you do it and was it hard to do?

noticed some metal shavings in mine after a closer look and would like to clean it up before installation!

has anyone been in contact with eiji lately?

i emailed him on monday cause i was missing the oil return from my kit and he hasn't responded.

battery Mentor

battery

Posted
Posted (edited)

to whoever has removed the front housing off their turbo, how did you do it and was it hard to do?

Circlip pliers. pretty easy if you have the right tool and know what your doing...

EDIT: the return provided in the t67 kit is just a rubber hose... I went and got a braided line made up for mine.

Edited by battery
Rolls Grand Master

Rolls

Posted
Posted

to whoever has removed the front housing off their turbo, how did you do it and was it hard to do?

Was it a brand new turbo? If it was off a car then chances are they were from you removing it, otherwise they would have surely been ingested by now.

GTScotT Grand Master

GTScotT

Posted
Posted

its brand new purchased from kando

they are a good product but you need to check that sort of thing before you put them on... only a mechanical part made on mechanical tools...

SimonR32 Grand Master

SimonR32

Posted
  • Author
Posted

to whoever has removed the front housing off their turbo, how did you do it and was it hard to do?

noticed some metal shavings in mine after a closer look and would like to clean it up before installation!

has anyone been in contact with eiji lately?

i emailed him on monday cause i was missing the oil return from my kit and he hasn't responded.

Circlip pliers and about 3 and a half seconds :)

stocker Enthusiast

stocker

Posted
Posted

to whoever has removed the front housing off their turbo, how did you do it and was it hard to do?

noticed some metal shavings in mine after a closer look and would like to clean it up before installation!

has anyone been in contact with eiji lately?

i emailed him on monday cause i was missing the oil return from my kit and he hasn't responded.

hey i got a spare oil return if need

Bsa Mentor

Bsa

Posted
Posted

hey guys im jumping back on the wagon and going a kando again only on a sr this time (waiting for coment fron gtscott hahA) in thinking of running the tdo6 but the 18g does kando do the 06 in a t2 flange anyone know? dori i can give you a hand on sat as you will need to remove the front housing more then likly to fit it low mount i did anyway on the 32.

GTScotT Grand Master

GTScotT

Posted
Posted

hey guys im jumping back on the wagon and going a kando again only on a sr this time (waiting for coment fron gtscott hahA) in thinking of running the tdo6 but the 18g does kando do the 06 in a t2 flange anyone know? dori i can give you a hand on sat as you will need to remove the front housing more then likly to fit it low mount i did anyway on the 32.

They do have a TD06 version of the one Jez was tuning the night I met you, but I doubt its what you want... I would stick to a TD05H if you want internal gate, or external gate TD06.

Internal TD05H-18g (trust T518Z):

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Turbocharger-SR20DET-SILVIA-S14-S15-TD05H-18G-Turbo-/270893185910?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item3f127dfb76

Internal TD06SL2-20g with T518Z housing:

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Turbocharger-SR20DET-SILVIA-S14-S15-TD06SL2-20G-Turbo-/270893186106?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item3f127dfc3a

Internal 20g like above but with 3" comp cover (i think this one would be better):

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Turbocharger-Kinugawa-TD06SL2-20G-w-T518Z-T25-Housing-/280806645825?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item4161616041

External TD06SL2-20g:

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Turbocharger-Kinugawa-Mitsubishi-TD06SL2-20G-T25-Flange-/280806646097?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item4161616151

And something I thought was very interesting:

www.ebay.com.au/itm/Kinugawa-Turbocharger-3-Anti-Surge-TD05H-18G-w-T3-8cm-V-Band-External-Gate-Hsg-/270880573643?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item3f11bd88cb

Somebody must want that one for an RB20!

Roy Grand Master

Roy

Posted
Posted

Somebody must want that one for an RB20!

I have bought one to go on my car. Though I stayed away from the ported cover as I am going to need the 18G to make all the power and response it can on my old RB20. I am very curious to see how the TD05H-18G stacks up against my TD06-20G that I am ripping off

This is the exact one I bought

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=280803976009#ht_2159wt_1270

I seriously need to wake up to myself. I now have a 3 spare turbos, 2 spare brake kits and 5 race seats for two cars :(

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Murray_Calavera
      Quieter performance exhausts (or muffler add-on options)

      By Murray_Calavera · Posted

      Nope.    Grab a varex and turn it down as you get close to home, win win? 
    • f00stx
      Quieter performance exhausts (or muffler add-on options)

      By f00stx · Posted

      So, I've had my V36 for about a month now and have already copped an "excessive exhaust noise" notification from QLD TMR, reported by someone in my local area. It's a twin as per the original, and can have a bit of a throaty note to it when idling cold 😄 and if I do get up it a bit, it can be noisy, but it did pass a roadworthy inspection before sale, so.... ... but in the interest of being a good neighbour, I do want to quieten it down a bit. Is anyone here running a quiet aftermarket cat-back on their V36 or 370Z? And the big, bold question: does an aftermarket cat-back really make much of a performance difference on these cars?
    • GTSBoy
      New kid on the block

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      The wiring diagram for the R33 RB25 is freely available, and is essentially the same same as most other RBs (just with differences as to which pin # does which job). To get the ECU to power up, you just need to provide power to the ECCS relay, and have the other power feeds that come in from the top left of the wiring diagram (wrt the ECU) that give perma power to the fuel pump relay, the ECU itself, etc etc, all connected. When you put power on all these it will just come to life. It's pretty clear from the diagram what needs to happen. Just follow the lines from the 12V + supply stuff in the top left over towards the ECU. I've even posted snips of such diagrams (not for vanilla 25, I think for Neo and 26) to various threads here in the last few months, talking about what it takes to get the fuel pump and FPCM up and going. Search these up and they will help get you started on doing the same with the vanilla 25 diagram. Hell, for all I know, I've done the same with that one in years past and have forgotten.
    • Duncan
      New kid on the block

      By Duncan · Posted

      Yep...so unless someone posts up the answer you will need to probe from the ECU connector to the dash plug with a multi meter in continuity mode to trace the wires.  Note the ECU has multiple - and + (and across different key settings - Battery, IGN and Start) and most likely the power is fed from the connector(s) that is normally near the left hand headlight.
    • Songo
      New kid on the block

      By Songo · Posted

      Thanks Duncan, I am actually just trying to get the Rb turning and running with the RB25DET S2 original loom itself  I am just trying to get it going outside the body and not thinking about the S15 or trying to match anything to the S15 loom at all I am only trying to see if anyone has done this and what pin they found to be the ignition trigger and ECU+/- on the dash connector, that's about it. Thanks  
×
×
  • Create New...