Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey SimonR32,

As little as possible :whistling: But probably 7500. My 25 used to make 430hp@7400 and still make power on the way to 8000 but i didn't like revving it that hard. I should post up a dyno graph as its interesting to compare it to your T67 result on E85. Actually your graph was what convinced me to go T67!

In a nutshell 3037 in front until 3500 from my hazey memory from last night while i was trying to digest all 90+pages... but after that the T67 romps away :thumbsup:

Do any of you guys with the T67 have a torque graph you can post- I don't care about the numbers or scaling, i'd just like to see the shape of the curve?

DVS JEZ- i run -5's on the 26/30 in my GTR. Just awesome. Its in the shop now for it's final tune...before i sell it :( to provide me with some more fun tickets so i can finish my little track car :D

The 6boob jobbie really does make quite a difference- i picked up 30hp while dropping 2psi on the 3037!

BTW the 26 is going in my S13

8000rpm minimum on a RB26, I think that's even stock... If it's built well 9000rpm shouldn't really be an issue either!

Torque Graph:

2011-02-03205959.jpg

Yeah the internal gate one they do comes in an L2 rear, might be worth trying.

I had the crazy idea that this one would be better though:

www.ebay.com.au/itm/Turbocharger-SR20DET-SILVIA-S14-S15-TD06SL2-18G-Turbo-/270893185830?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item3f127dfb26

The TD05H-18g has about 280kw in it with a 10cm housing, maybe the L2 rear in that one will free it up even if its a 8cm.. Thats my thoughts anyway.

Bro can you PM me a price to put a gate adapter on a stock manifold, cut and shut my dump and weld on a screamer? Seriously thinking about a kando again lol

Simon,

I was being facetious- sorry. It'll rev to whenever it stops making useful power. That said, yes built balanced blueprinted etc etc. But i will probably stop around 8000. I remember when Gibson motorsport stopped revving them past 7000 towards the end of the Group A era, i don't remember the exact figures, but engine rebuilds went from a a few hundred km's to into the low thousands.

I'm not chasing every ounce of power, solid performance & reliability is my goal.

Thanks for the torque graph.j I'll scan my 25 printout tomorrow as a comparison and post it.

Doing the dame thing for dori34 this sat

blakes work is sexy and he knows it..

very happy with the way he done my mani job :D

GTScott, Just go with the kando man! everyone says how brutal they (and the trust series) are on boost, i cannot wait to experience this myself.

blakes work is sexy and he knows it..

very happy with the way he done my mani job :D

GTScott, Just go with the kando man! everyone says how brutal they (and the trust series) are on boost, i cannot wait to experience this myself.

kekeke, just need to keep control of det on my setup.. remember its sitting on 10:1 CR and i dont really want to decompress it

if i can find evidence to support that ill be fine ill probably look at getting a TD06SL2-18g 8cm T25 and get Blake to hook up a gate for me and mod my dump.

Here is the 3037s graph showing torque and power. The pink run was the original turbo, the red one was after it was rebuilt by GCG.

Look for a faint pencil line, that is SimonR32's run on E85. It shows T67 a little behind the 3037 until 4500- there's nothing in it so you can say they are roughly the same- after which, the T67 walks away.

Both my runs are at 19psi

I know i said mine made 430, it did, this was re-tuned after i plumbed the external gate back into the main exhaust which lost some power in the top end - not shown in these graphs.

jungledyno.jpg

if i can find evidence to support that ill be fine ill probably look at getting a TD06SL2-18g 8cm T25 and get Blake to hook up a gate for me and mod my dump.

Why if only running a 2L would you want to run the bigger turbine and associated lag of the TD06? Especially if you are only flowing the lbs of air from the smaller 18G compressor?

Here is the 3037s graph showing torque and power. The pink run was the original turbo, the red one was after it was rebuilt by GCG.

Look for a faint pencil line, that is SimonR32's run on E85. It shows T67 a little behind the 3037 until 4500- there's nothing in it so you can say they are roughly the same- after which, the T67 walks away.

Both my runs are at 19psi

I know i said mine made 430, it did, this was re-tuned after i plumbed the external gate back into the main exhaust which lost some power in the top end - not shown in these graphs.

jungledyno.jpg

Any change of a bigger dyno? cant see anything :)

If you attach the full size it will shrink it down for normal view then you can click on it to see the full image.

Its only a smaller trim compressor, it should breathe easily through the L2 rear. I want to keep my rear side fairly free flowing because I have the little 10:1 issue to keep in mind.

I consider this: if a td05h 18g 10cm can do 280kw, a td06sl2 18g 8cm with an external gate should be able to match it. hopefully the 8cm vs 10cm can match in spool also.

On the same token is Eiji could make me a T25 10cm TD05H-18g I would go for it :)

Any change of a bigger dyno? cant see anything :)

If you attach the full size it will shrink it down for normal view then you can click on it to see the full image.

Yeah can't see shit! But if you want to compare a GT3076R (same as HKS 3037) with the T67 see this post

SimonR32.jpg

And here is a comparison of a 3076r with the same fuel, on the same dyno on the same day... Mine runs a little more boost, but this one has tomei poncams

Scradly.jpg

Am i missing something re the compression of your motor? Compressor wheel gives you certain cfm of air. The engine makes a certain amount of hp with that airflow. The compression ratio doesnt increase or decrease back pressure or flow. It influences where you make your power and the amount of ignition the engine can take.

So not sure I would agree that because you have a higher compression you need to run a bigger housing.

OK more or less the same CFM of air (with a resultant HP) will have a higher EGT with the higher comp.

The TD05H-18g Jez tuned for me recently on a 9.5cr motor would start pinging once we hit 16ish psi. Pulling timing wasnt helping..... I have a feeling the 8cm IWG TD05H was just a shit balance when driving a big compressor on a high comp motor. It comes on boost very early and strong, just didnt want to take the boost.

It did make 207rwkw @ 15psi on a Mainline dyno, but hey we wanted more :whistling: It did not appear to be an issue with the way it was being tuned as I was on site watching timing and fuel trims being altered to combat the ping.

well i have decided on the T67-25G

will be putting it on a 6boost mani with either a turbosmart ultragate 45 or tial 44mm gate laugh.gif

just have to save money over the next 6-12months but ill be buying turbo first in the next 2 months so i don't change my mind

You can thank photobucket for resizing it, I'll have another go tonight when I'm home.

Are they both on E85 or 98?

Both on jew mix, 50% E85 and 50% BP98

Which is the T67 and which is the GT30R?

T67 is the slightly lazier 480rwhp and the GT3076R is the 436rwhp

Edited by SimonR32

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Nice, thanks for sharing your progress....that's a pretty long list you are putting into it!
    • Decided to upgrade my pressurised plastic coolant expansion tank for a fancy pants alloy version The OEM versions can get brittle, even the new plastic one I got when I first got the car is a starting to show signs of "stress" I wasn't cheap, but it is basically unbreakable
    • Morning all, I have an RB25DET Neo that's in need of a rebuild. Will need new pistons etc due to detonation damage. Would anyone be able to recommend a shop in Southeast Queensland who I could bring my long motor to for a rebuild? Just want someone who knows RBs and whos built a bunch of them before. TLDR - recommended engine shops for RB rebuild.
    • Gday Thought it was about time I started a build thread! As expected this project has snowballed into a huge financial liability, but unless you’re strong willed and responsible, it’s not a surprise. Background -  My first turbo car was an R32 GTS-4, got my full license and then totalled my Au Falcon a week later, so while trying to sell my RMZ450 dirtbike to buy another car a bloke offered to swap the R32 which at the time I felt like I was ripped off but looking back and seeing prices of those now ($40kish) it was a good deal, I didn’t know enough about these cars to appreciate what I had so sold it before the RB20 blew up. Between here and there, out of 12 cars I’ve owned the note worthy ones are a V8 Lexus SC400 (soarer), a couple of XR6 Turbos and my beloved S15 which I had for about 3 years, picked it up for $12500, repairable write off but she was fine, gun metal grey/pewter and bone stock/unmolested until I got my hands on it. Ended up spending about the value of the car and 280kw, 2 demerit points by the time I got defected and sold it for $14500 (also $40kish in today’s market, rip) Fast forward to the present day, I’m in a much better position financially and daily an MQ Triton (great cars, pipe down Ranger Bois), I cruised marketplace and car sales for a few months looking for another R32, the best deal I could find was an absolute rust bucket half finished project for $12000, until this R33 popped up in Port Macquarie for $18k - unregistered and barely running but decent shape, kept an eye on it for a few weeks and the price steadily dropped, $16k then $15k then $14k, that was the point where I was like shit someone’s gonna snatch this up! It was owned by a young bloke who had big plans but him and his missus just had a baby so smartest move financially for them but big gain for me. So 2 days later I’m towing a car trailer to pick this thing up. Roughly 2 weeks and $3500 later I’m cruising around Newcastle in my beat up R33 all smiles and dose noises! It only needed some basic shit to get it going, coil packs and air flow meter, electrical stuff and all fluids changed, 158k kms and running pretty good, nice smooth engine after oil and coolant flush - when I say coolant I mean it had been filled up with tap water, every gallery and heater element was filled with rust, 8-9 flushes later and still had brown liquid coming out but she’ll be right. The car was painted R34 Bayside Blue at some point but whether it was a cheap job or just not looked after is anyone’s guess, clear coat flaking like sausage roll.  Was rethinking my choices and contemplating life, had it up for sale for $22k - still cheaper than any registered R33 but got little interest, next minute I had an opportunity at work - 6 months overseas for good money, so that was a no brainer, fast forward again and here we are with a 50% finished project. Current Mods - 200ish KW according to butt dyno Was tuned with Apexi PowerFC EBC (old school Greddy Profec)  Stock turbo (more shaft play than a Tinder date gone right) 3inch turbo back Varex muffler  Aftermarket injectors of mystery size, Power FC showed 36% duty cycle at full boost so not behd good size Someone had good intentions but stuck with the stock R33 MAF so we had misfires at 6000rpm due to the MAF hitting 5.2V So far I’ve redone the entire interior with carpet form Car Mats Direct, new Seats and steering wheel from Autotechnica, also sound system by Autobarn (mainly Kicker) Also MCA pro comfort coil overs - Hands down best purchase yet, worlds of improvement over the tired 30yrold shocks Goals - 450kw/600hp on flex tune New paint job - Midnight Purple 2 Engine is at the shop getting rebuilt with forged rods a pistons, new valves and springs, ATI Harmonic balancer, Aeroflow 7.5L sump, rear head drain and oil restrictors as per oil control thread* and cam covers modded for larger breathers, other stuff I can’t recall of the top of my head Parts purchased and to be installed once the engine is done -  Engine loom from Wiring Specialties including these options: Haltech Nexus S3 R35 Coil pack conversion  PRP Dual Trigger kit Fan controller  Other Parts -  262 Kelford Cams Turbo - Hypergear ATR43SS3-ProS with T51R mod (whistly boi) 6 boost manifold (high mount) 50mm Turbosmart Pro gate (plumbed back for legal reasons) HKS Super Turbo Exhaust with High Flow Cat Custom 3.5inch dump and front pipe 1500cc Bosch injectors  Fuel Pump walbro 525 Haltech MAP and IAT sensors Haltech Flex Sensor Fenix Radiator with dual thermo fans LS1 Alternator Kit Oil Filter Relocation from EFI solutions and Cooling pro oil cooler Many other things sitting in my garage waiting for that engine to come back. Progress pics to follow -  
    • Losses have to be less with DC coupling. Provided the battery inverter has decent MPP tracking ability - which really shouldn't be a problem. It's not 2005 any more.
×
×
  • Create New...