Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

yes and jez had boost issues as well but that was because of his gate.

BSA had the same gate mod and he didnt have any spool issues and his was plumbed up the same way as well.

im gonna try with a bleed valve or borrow a profec b2 off Jez if he has time, so we can try it out.

mm. well its nothing to do with them that its dropping boost.. I just wanted to know.

I dont think the issue is in the turbo either, that rear wheel and housing combo has been proven plenty with the T67s and I doubt the 20g will throw it off that much that it caps out that early.

Try get the boost to stay on I guess. Did you try running a higher duty and lower gain? IE slow spool with high target?

yes and jez had boost issues as well but that was because of his gate.

BSA had the same gate mod and he didnt have any spool issues and his was plumbed up the same way as well.

im gonna try with a bleed valve or borrow a profec b2 off Jez if he has time, so we can try it out.

My issue was opposite. I had boost creep due to a small 34mm gate.

Try plumbing the boost line into the top of the gate to help hold it shut. 5minute job, other wise come grab some springs and the profec b solenoid and control unit to try

Yeah, my tuner played with the gain, it doesn't make a difference.

My issue was opposite. I had boost creep due to a small 34mm gate.

Try plumbing the boost line into the top of the gate to help hold it shut. 5minute job, other wise come grab some springs and the profec b solenoid and control unit to try

thanks mate, getting it back tomorrow morning so will give it a try then. the MVR springs won't work with my gate :(

Have you considered the gate mod to the manifold might be holding it back? I wonder what would happen if it was plumbed off the rear housing instead with an intact manifold.

And that is some pretty rapid spool. Will be interesting to see the final result. Don't forget Jez has the same turbo and housing.

Yeah I would be looking at the manifold/gate arrangement

Yeah I would be looking at the manifold/gate arrangement

dont think this would be the case Simon, Blake (BSA) had the same manifold setup (but smaller gate) on his car and it wasn't an issue

what spring are you using in your gate at 1.5 bar ?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yup. You can get creative and make a sort of "bracket" with cable ties. Put 2 around the sender with a third passing underneath them strapped down against the sender. Then that third one is able to be passed through some hole at right angles to the orientation of the sender. Or some variation on the theme. Yes.... ummm, with caveats? I mean, the sender is BSP and you would likely have AN stuff on the hose, so yes, there would be the adapter you mention. But the block end will either be 1/8 NPT if that thread is still OK in there, or you can drill and tap it out to 1/4 BSP or NPT and use appropriate adapter there. As it stands, your mention of 1/8 BSPT male seems... wrong for the 1/8 NPT female it has to go into. The hose will be better, because even with the bush, the mass of the sender will be "hanging" off a hard threaded connection and will add some stress/strain to that. It might fail in the future. The hose eliminates almost all such risk - but adds in several more threaded connections to leak from! It really should be tapered, but it looks very long in that photo with no taper visible. If you have it in hand you should be able to see if it tapered or not. There technically is no possibility of a mechanical seal with a parallel male in a parallel female, so it is hard to believe that it is parallel male, but weirder things have happened. Maybe it's meant to seat on some surface when screwed in on the original installation? Anyway, at that thread size, parallel in parallel, with tape and goop, will seal just fine.
    • How do you propose I cable tie this: To something securely? Is it really just a case of finding a couple of holes and ziptying it there so it never goes flying or starts dangling around, more or less? Then run a 1/8 BSP Female to [hose adapter of choice?/AN?] and then the opposing fitting at the bush-into-oil-block end? being the hose-into-realistically likely a 1/8 BSPT male) Is this going to provide any real benefit over using a stainless/steel 1/4 to 1/8 BSPT reducing bush? I am making the assumption the OEM sender is BSPT not BSPP/BSP
    • I fashioned a ramp out of a couple of pieces of 140x35 lumber, to get the bumper up slightly, and then one of these is what I use
    • I wouldn't worry about dissimilar metal corrosion, should you just buy/make a steel replacement. There will be thread tape and sealant compound between the metals. The few little spots where they touch each other will be deep inside the joint, unable to get wet. And the alloy block is much much larger than a small steel fitting, so there is plenty of "sacrificial" capacity there. Any bush you put in there will be dissimilar anyway. Either steel or brass. Maybe stainless. All of them are different to the other parts in the chain. But what I said above still applies.
    • You are all good then, I didn't realise the port was in a part you can (have!) remove. Just pull the broken part out, clean it and the threads should be fine. Yes, the whole point about remote mounting is it takes almost all of the vibration out via the flexible hose. You just need a convenient chassis point and a cable tie or 3.
×
×
  • Create New...