Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Have thought about that too, but can't help but feel that there is a possibility the owner will want to charge for more boost at some point in the future. I tend to think of F20Bs and more so H22As as parallels of RB25s, which I'd probably not put a TD05 on either. I think in this case a little more lag and more than enough flow would be the preferred, but still pondering on it.

.... the brutal hit of the 20g.

LOL, I wish it had a brutal hit :) The car that I drove years ago that made me go TD06-20G was an 180SX Jap Drift car and it did come on harder then the RB20...but wasnt as brutal as say an RB25 with HKS 3040...that came on HARD!

Re the low boost Honda. As a rough guide my thing makes 180rwks at 8psi. 225rwkws at 14psi and 260rwkws at 19psi...roughly. So they work ok at lower pressure ratios giving you a decent gain per psi even at low boost

Roy - cheers, thats the 20G with TD06 hotside - right? Thats one of the reasons I am pondering the full TD06SL2 20G, an 18G etc will make >230kw - but they may need the boost more. The Honda needs decent flow at lower boost, and they drive turbos reasonably well. If we went TD05 (or even 06) with an 18G compressor and found that it isn't flowing quite as much as we need then that would be quite a pain. If we go TD06SL2 20G its going to make the power the engine will want to make on 11-12psi as far as I can tell, but it will be less responsive than the 18G (esp. TD05 hotside one), which relatively speaking is probably less of a fail as I can't see the TD06SL2 being terribly laggy relative to rev range.

The trick here is the current turbo on the car is a Chinese 700hp something or another, so anything compared to that is probably going to feel supercharged :) The other thing to remember is with a filthy Honda, with this car the party starts at around 5500rpm and redline on this fella is 8000rpm regardless of if or what turbo is on it.

Appreciate any thoughts or experience that might help with this, as at the moment just trying to make the best educated guess.

Do you really peg the H22A with similar character to an RB25? That's some jump.

If its good flow at low boost I would be thinking larger compressor smaller turbine. Maybe TD05H 20G? I can only see this as a negative if the user wants to access the upper most regions of the compressors flow capacity. Remember again the Evos do quite well out of the little TD05H :thumbsup:

Do you really peg the H22A with similar character to an RB25? That's some jump.

If its good flow at low boost I would be thinking larger compressor smaller turbine. Maybe TD05H 20G? I can only see this as a negative if the user wants to access the upper most regions of the compressors flow capacity. Remember again the Evos do quite well out of the little TD05H :thumbsup:

I'm not actually sure what you're saying by saying "Thats some jump", surely you aren't talking about an RB25 over an H22A?

Yeah, I had thought about the whole TD05/20G idea as well and still think its well worth considering though mindful of the fact that 240kw @ wheels on an EVO is pushing the old TD05s quite hard while there is the possibility we could be looking at numbers in that range from the Honda and really keen on ideally not becoming knock limited - or at least minimally so.

I owned a H22A VTEC Prelude in Auckland for 4 years, damn nice cars, and the H22A really gets going after 5500rpm - almost turbo goodness - they are quite high compression engines though, I take it that your friend's block (talking to you Lithium) has the compression lowered as its already turboed??

Yep, around 9.5:1 compression - and yeah, they are very good motors and have epic potential. My flatmates Prelude makes in the area of 190fwkw, which would be respectable for a turbo 4cyl even :)

Thats a bit hard to digest, from the factory they are 150kw at the engine, lets say this is 110-120 fwkw, and since Hondas are NA and so well tuned and designed from the factory, no amount of headers, exhaust, intake and VTEC controllers is going to net you that much gain over stock (unlike turbo cars), I think roughly even 30fwkw gain over stock is huge for a Honda. If that Prelude makes 190fwkw without a turbo (unless its the same friend with the turbo H22A?) then thats either pretty phenomenal or too good to be true..pinch.gif

If that Prelude makes 190fwkw without a turbo then thats either pretty phenomenal

Cheers, will tell the owner that... he gets a kick out of people being incredulous at the results :D A huge amount of work into it to get there - it goes a tad beyond exhaust intake and VTEC controller but no its not the car we're matching a turbo for so a bit OT, was pointing out these things can breathe something fierce if they want to.

gtfo with all your Honda talk.

with the lovely day yesterday with dry roads, i was able to test the current tune on only 14psi and it is very responsive.

will be interesting to compare graphs with mine and a gt3071 to compare boost/rpm when i get it.

cant wait to experience the full tune of 22psi in a few weeks!

will be lots of fun.. :devil:

oh and the car sounds extremely g4y with the gate plumbed up, it needs to scream!!

gtfo with all your Honda talk.

with the lovely day yesterday with dry roads, i was able to test the current tune on only 14psi and it is very responsive.

will be interesting to compare graphs with mine and a gt3071 to compare boost/rpm when i get it.

cant wait to experience the full tune of 22psi in a few weeks!

will be lots of fun.. :devil:

oh and the car sounds extremely g4y with the gate plumbed up, it needs to scream!!

I always thought you were the boy who digs Hondas.. On a different note, its good to hear you like the Kando TD06 on your 34 Neo, thats the way I'm sure I will be heading soon.:yes: From initial impressions, does the boost and 'torque feel' ramp up hard and aggressive or is it the boring linear feeling turbo that some people love??

Roy, can you please post up your latest td06-20g dyno graph so i got something to work off :)

Will be interesting to see the difference. I only have road speed graphs which normally look ok ithrough the mid due to the shorter gearing and 17" wheels.

This is my current one, running Plazmaman, 6boost and the difference is 98 and ARC cooler vs 100 and R34 GTR cooler.

med_gallery_462_50_656235.jpg

This gives you an idea of how much I lost with the Plazmaman and 6boost manifold

med_gallery_462_50_277177.jpg

LOL, so looking at the above graph you may start to understand why sometimes I seem like an argumentative bastard with looking to quantify results or asking questions. I have spent about 2k on manifold changes only to lose power and response and make the car more sensitive to ignition and detonation :spank:

Cheers, will tell the owner that... he gets a kick out of people being incredulous at the results :D A huge amount of work into it to get there - it goes a tad beyond exhaust intake and VTEC controller but no its not the car we're matching a turbo for so a bit OT, was pointing out these things can breathe something fierce if they want to.

agreed the honda product is hugely underated.. People in the states slap a turbo or 2 on a v6 accord and it easily pokes out 300fwkw...and there inlies their problem "FWKW" as useless as a one legged man in an ass kickin competition..the day they put a diff in the rear end is the day they get the notoriety they deserve..

I always thought you were the boy who digs Hondas.. On a different note, its good to hear you like the Kando TD06 on your 34 Neo, thats the way I'm sure I will be heading soon.:yes: From initial impressions, does the boost and 'torque feel' ramp up hard and aggressive or is it the boring linear feeling turbo that some people love??

yeh mate, comes on hard.

you will not be disappointed if you go down this path.

yeh mate, comes on hard.

you will not be disappointed if you go down this path.

Good to hear you sorted your boost problems mate. Keen to see your dyno results! What rpm are you hitting full boost by with the TD06SL2-20G?

Edited by swarzee

Good to hear you sorted your boost problems mate. Keen to see your dyno results! What rpm are you hitting full boost by with the TD06SL2-20G?

did a test last night,

in 4th from 2000rpm flat foot, it hit full boost by around 37-3800rpm.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I did end up getting it sorted, as GTSBoy said, there was a corroded connection and wire that needed to be replaced. I ended up taking out the light assembly, giving everything a good clean and re-soldered the old joints, and it came out good.
    • Wow, thanks for your help guys 🙏. I really appreciate it. Thanks @Rezz, if i fail finding any new or used, full or partial set of original Stage carpets i will come back to you for sure 😉 Explenation is right there, i just missed it 🤦‍♂️. Thanks for pointing out. @soviet_merlin in the meantime, I received a reply from nengun, and i quote: "Thanks for your message and interest in Nengun. KG4900 is for the full set of floor mats, while KG4911 is only the Driver's Floor Mat. FR, RH means Front Right Hand Side. All the Full Set options are now discontinued. However, the Driver's Floor Mat options are still available according to the latest information available to us. We do not know what the differences would be, but if you only want the one mat, we can certainly see what we can find out for you". Interesting. It seems they still have some "new old stock" that Duncan mentioned 🤔. I wonder if they can provide any photos......And i also just realized that amayama have G4900 sets. I'm tempted too. 
    • Any update on this one? did you manage to get it fixed?    i'm having the same issue with my r34 and i believe its to do with the smart entry (keyless) control module but cant be sure without forking out to get a replacement  
    • So this being my first contribution to the SAU forums, I'd like to present and show how I had to solve probably one of the most annoying fixes on any car I've owned: replacing a speedometer (or "speedo") sensor on my newly acquired Series 1 Stagea 260RS Autech Version. I'm simply documenting how I went about to fix this issue, and as I understand it is relatively rare to happen to this generation of cars, it is a gigantic PITA so I hope this helps serve as reference to anyone else who may encounter this issue. NOTE: Although I say this is meant for the 260RS, because the gearbox/drivetrain is shared with the R33 GTR with the 5-speed manual, the application should be exactly the same. Background So after driving my new-to-me Stagea for about 1500km, one night while driving home the speedometer and odometer suddenly stopped working. No clunking noise, no indication something was broken, the speedometer would just stop reading anything and the odometer stopped going up. This is a huge worry for me, because my car is relatively low mileage (only 45k km when purchased) so although I plan to own the car for a long time, a mismatched odometer reading would be hugely detrimental to resale should the day come to sell the car. Thankfully this only occurred a mile or two from home so it wasn't extremely significant. Also, the OCD part of me would be extremely irked if the numbers that showed on my dash doesn't match the actual ageing of the car. Diagnosing I had been in communication with the well renown GTR shop in the USA, U.P.garage up near University Point in Washington state. After some back and forth they said it could be one of two things: 1) The speedometer sensor that goes into the transfer case is broken 2) The actual cluster has a component that went kaput. They said this is common in older Nissan gauge clusters and that would indicate a rebuild is necessary. As I tried to figure out if it was problem #1, I resolved problem #2 by sending my cluster over to Relentless Motorsports in Dallas, TX, whom is local to me and does cluster and ECU rebuilds. He is a one man operation who meticulously replaces every chip, resistor, capacitor, and electronic component on the PCB's on a wide variety of classic and modern cars. His specialty is Lexus and Toyota, but he came highly recommended by Erik of U.P.garage since he does the rebuilds for them on GTR clusters.  For those that don't know, on R32 and R33 GTR gearboxes, the speedometer sensor is mounted in the transfer case and is purely an analog mini "generator" (opposite of an alternator essentially). Based on the speed the sensor spins it generates an AC sine wave voltage up to 5V, and sends that via two wires up to the cluster which then interprets it via the speedometer dial. The signal does NOT go to the ECU first, the wiring goes to the cluster first then the ECU after (or so I'm told).  Problems/Roadblocks I first removed the part from the car on the underside of the transfer case (drain your transfer case fluid/ATF first, guess who found out that the hard way?), and noted the transfer case fluid was EXTREMELY black, most likely never changed on my car. When attempting to turn the gears it felt extremely gritty, as if something was binding the shaft from rotating properly. I got absolutely no voltage reading out of the sensor no matter how fast I turned the shaft. After having to reflow the solder on my AFM sensors based on another SAU guide here, I attempted to disassemble the silicone seal on the back of the sensor to see what happened inside the sensor; turns out, it basically disintegrated itself. Wonderful. Not only had the electrical components destroyed themselves, the magnetic portion on what I thought was on the shaft also chipped and was broken. Solution So solution: find a spare part right? Wrong. Nissan has long discontinued the proper sensor part number 32702-21U19, and it is no longer obtainable either through Nissan NSA or Nissan Japan. I was SOL without proper speed or mileage readings unless I figured out a way to replace this sensor. After tons of Googling and searching on SAU, I found that there IS however a sensor that looks almost exactly like the R33/260RS one: a sensor meant for the R33/R34 GTT and GTS-T with the 5 speed manual. The part number was 25010-21U00, and the body, plug, and shaft all looked exactly the same. The gear was different at the end, but knowing the sensor's gear is held on with a circlip, I figured I could just order the part and swap the gears. Cue me ordering a new part from JustJap down in Kirrawee, NSW, then waiting almost 3 weeks for shipping and customs clearing. The part finally arrives and what did I find? The freaking shaft lengths don't match. $&%* I discussed with Erik how to proceed, and figuring that I basically destroyed the sensor trying to get the shaft out of the damaged sensor from my car. we deemed it too dangerous to try and attempt to swap shafts to the correct length. I had to find a local CNC machinist to help me cut and notch down the shaft. After tons of frantic calling on a Friday afternoon, I managed to get hold of someone and he said he'd be able to do it over half a week. I sent him photos and had him take measurements to match not only the correct length and notch fitment, but also a groove to machine out to hold the retentive circlip. And the end result? *chef's kiss* Perfect. Since I didn't have pliers with me when I picked up the items, I tested the old gear and circlip on. Perfect fit. After that it was simply swapping out the plug bracket to the new sensor, mount it on the transfer case, refill with ATF/Nissan Matic Fluid D, then test out function. Thankfully with the rebuilt cluster and the new sensor, both the speedometer and odometer and now working properly!   And there you have it. About 5-6 weeks of headaches wrapped up in a 15 minute photo essay. As I was told it is rare for sensors of this generation to die so dramatically, but you never know what could go wrong with a 25+ year old car. I HOPE that no one else has to go through this problem like I did, so with my take on a solution I hope it helps others who may encounter this issue in the future. For the TL;DR: 1) Sensor breaks. 2) Find a replacement GTT/GTS-T sensor. 3) Find a CNC machinist to have you cut it down to proper specs. 4) Reinstall then pray to the JDM gods.   Hope this guide/story helps anyone else encountering this problem!
    • So this being my first contribution to the SAU forums, I'd like to present and show how I had to solve probably one of the most annoying fixes on any car I've owned: replacing a speedometer (or "speedo") sensor on my newly acquired Series 1 Stagea 260RS Autech Version. I'm simply documenting how I went about to fix this issue, and as I understand it is relatively rare to happen to this generation of cars, it is a gigantic PITA so I hope this helps serve as reference to anyone else who may encounter this issue. NOTE: Although I say this is meant for the 260RS, because the gearbox/drivetrain is shared with the R33 GTR with the 5-speed manual, the application should be exactly the same. Background So after driving my new-to-me Stagea for about 1500km, one night while driving home the speedometer and odometer suddenly stopped working. No clunking noise, no indication something was broken, the speedometer would just stop reading anything and the odometer stopped going up. This is a huge worry for me, because my car is relatively low mileage (only 45k km when purchased) so although I plan to own the car for a long time, a mismatched odometer reading would be hugely detrimental to resale should the day come to sell the car. Thankfully this only occurred a mile or two from home so it wasn't extremely significant. Also, the OCD part of me would be extremely irked if the numbers that showed on my dash doesn't match the actual ageing of the car. Diagnosing I had been in communication with the well renown GTR shop in the USA, U.P.garage up near University Point in Washington state. After some back and forth they said it could be one of two things: 1) The speedometer sensor that goes into the transfer case is broken 2) The actual cluster has a component that went kaput. They said this is common in older Nissan gauge clusters and that would indicate a rebuild is necessary. As I tried to figure out if it was problem #1, I resolved problem #2 by sending my cluster over to Relentless Motorsports in Dallas, TX, whom is local to me and does cluster and ECU rebuilds. He is a one man operation who meticulously replaces every chip, resistor, capacitor, and electronic component on the PCB's on a wide variety of classic and modern cars. His specialty is Lexus and Toyota, but he came highly recommended by Erik of U.P.garage since he does the rebuilds for them on GTR clusters.  For those that don't know, on R32 and R33 GTR gearboxes, the speedometer sensor is mounted in the transfer case and is purely an analog mini "generator" (opposite of an alternator essentially). Based on the speed the sensor spins it generates an AC sine wave voltage up to 5V, and sends that via two wires up to the cluster which then interprets it via the speedometer dial. The signal does NOT go to the ECU first, the wiring goes to the cluster first then the ECU after (or so I'm told).  Problems/Roadblocks I first removed the part from the car on the underside of the transfer case (drain your transfer case fluid/ATF first, guess who found out that the hard way?), and noted the transfer case fluid was EXTREMELY black, most likely never changed on my car. When attempting to turn the gears it felt extremely gritty, as if shttps://imgur.com/6TQCG3xomething was binding the shaft from rotating properly. After having to reflow the solder on my AFM sensors based on another SAU guide here, I attempted to disassemble the silicone seal on the back of the sensor to see what happened inside the sensor; turns out, it basically disintegrated itself. Wonderful. Not only had the electrical components destroyed themselves, the magnetic portion on what I thought was on the shaft also chipped and was broken. Solution So solution: find a spare part right? Wrong. Nissan has long discontinued the proper sensor part number 32702-21U19, and it is no longer obtainable either through Nissan NSA or Nissan Japan. I was SOL without proper speed or mileage readings unless I figured out a way to replace this sensor. After tons of Googling and searching on SAU, I found that there IS however a sensor that looks almost exactly like the R33/260RS one: a sensor meant for the R33/R34 GTT and GTS-T with the 5 speed manual. The part number was 25010-21U00, and the body, plug, and shaft all looked exactly the same. The gear was different at the end, but knowing the sensor's gear is held on with a circlip, I figured I could just order the part and swap the gears. Cue me ordering a new part from JustJap down in Kirrawee, NSW, then waiting almost 3 weeks for shipping and customs clearing. The part finally arrives and what did I find? The freaking shaft lengths don't match. $&%* I discussed with Erik how to proceed, and figuring that I basically destroyed the sensor trying to get the shaft out of the damaged sensor from my car. we deemed it too dangerous to try and attempt to swap shafts to the correct length. I had to find a local CNC machinist to help me cut and notch down the shaft. After tons of frantic calling on a Friday afternoon, I managed to get hold of someone and he said he'd be able to do it over half a week. I sent him photos and had him take measurements to match not only the correct length and notch fitment, but also a groove to machine out to hold the retentive circlip. And the end result? *chef's kiss* Perfect. Since I didn't have pliers with me when I picked up the items, I tested the old gear and circlip on. Perfect fit. After that it was simply swapping out the plug bracket to the new sensor, mount it on the transfer case, refill with ATF/Nissan Matic Fluid D, then test out function. Thankfully with the rebuilt cluster and the new sensor, both the speedometer and odometer and now working properly!   And there you have it. About 5-6 weeks of headaches wrapped up in a 15 minute photo essay. As I was told it is rare for sensors of this generation to die so dramatically, but you never know what could go wrong with a 25+ year old car. I HOPE that no one else has to go through this problem like I did, so with my take on a solution I hope it helps others who may encounter this issue in the future. For the TL;DR: 1) Sensor breaks. 2) Find a replacement GTT/GTS-T sensor. 3) Find a CNC machinist to have you cut it down to proper specs. 4) Reinstall then pray to the JDM gods.   Hope this guide/story helps anyone else encountering this problem!
×
×
  • Create New...