Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

It's alright, I'll be doing the drag before E-flex so that it's fair :P

But yeah...E-flex is clearly the way to go for street cars wanting big power. Imagine ~300rwkw with response not that far from stock!

Oh..i guess i should leave the nitrous at home then :(

When I get my frikken car back :/

Have to get it out of the way soonish because I'll be switching to E-flex after a month or so of driving on 98. Time to see what an ethanol powered SS1PU can do :thumbsup:

I went past racepace yesterday, they look busy..pretty sure I saw your car buried in there somewhere though

oh so you're switching to the magic juice too?!! dammit >_<

You know you wanna!! As soon as my financials are sorted ill be getting tuned on it AND the nearest servo is about 25mins away, so dont use distance as an excuse :P

You know you wanna!! As soon as my financials are sorted ill be getting tuned on it AND the nearest servo is about 25mins away, so dont use distance as an excuse :P

You think that's bad, I'm pretty sure my nearest servo is also your nearest servo :P

Who wants to help me take down the WA government? Anyone?

have u got his 98 graph somewhere that you can post up Scott?

I actually found it before lunch, wish you had asked prior lol. Its roughly the page 15 area of his GTX thread.

He made 288 peak, about the same power at 3000rpm and about 20kw less at 4000rpm..

So once your VCT is fixed, you should easily make more at the 3000 mark, and open the gap further at the 4000 mark. Who knows... Maybe the surge cover will also help you clear more up top too.

You think that's bad, I'm pretty sure my nearest servo is also your nearest servo :P

Who wants to help me take down the WA government? Anyone?

Haha OK, YOU have a legit excuse :P

But you are all setup for it so go get the WA government sorted :domokun:

That would be pretty surprising...

Not to me. By my understanding, compressor speed could potentially be hindered by the surge and not recovering in full by peak power.

So if the surge slowed shaft speed theres nothing to say that it wont let it follow through a little further over the whole graph once its fixed.

The above is assuming its not out of puff at its 280kw point (the graph appears to level out but that could be in Jez pulling timing before the redline). Just shift the 'after dip' curve back to where the dip starts and there is this 1000rpm gap up top.. thats 1000rpm of power making potential IMHO.

Not to me. By my understanding, compressor speed could potentially be hindered by the surge and not recovering in full by peak power.

So if the surge slowed shaft speed theres nothing to say that it wont let it follow through a little further over the whole graph once its fixed.

The above is assuming its not out of puff at its 280kw point (the graph appears to level out but that could be in Jez pulling timing before the redline). Just shift the 'after dip' curve back to where the dip starts and there is this 1000rpm gap up top.. thats 1000rpm of power making potential IMHO.

Hey Dori, do you have any pics of the engine bay esp where the wastegate is connected = all the piping / screamer / intake etc?? Would help others I'm sure and the experienced members might pick up a thing or two with suggestions..:cool:

GTScoTT - Easy way to prove you theory would be to pull the wastegate hose off and do a dyno run or a 3rd gear pull, if it doesn't free boost then you're quite right - my money is however on their being no issue with shaft speed, and that the wastegate is earning its cash keeping shaft speed down by those rpm... and I'm pretty sure people mentioned wastegate noise earlier on, which would imply that is definitely the case.

GTScoTT - Easy way to prove you theory would be to pull the wastegate hose off and do a dyno run or a 3rd gear pull, if it doesn't free boost then you're quite right - my money is however on their being no issue with shaft speed, and that the wastegate is earning its cash keeping shaft speed down by those rpm... and I'm pretty sure people mentioned wastegate noise earlier on, which would imply that is definitely the case.

No. AFAIK its only surging on spool up at lower RPM. So that would mean the WG is still controlling boost once the motor starts to open up. BUT, I still believe that could impact it up top.

Remember the silly RB has a threshold where it opens up around the 4000 mark, and these 20g's are making boost at the 3500 mark.

That being said, there is probably MOAR to be had if we can work out how to make the thing swallow more air before its natural threshold (Peak torque at lower RPM).

No. AFAIK its only surging on spool up at lower RPM. So that would mean the WG is still controlling boost once the motor starts to open up. BUT, I still believe that could impact it up top.

I know that, but as soon as the surge goes it will be spooling as per normal - as will be evidenced by the fact that the wastegate is open. If the wastegate needs to open, the shaft speed is MORE than it needs to be... simple as that.

That being said, there is probably MOAR to be had if we can work out how to make the thing swallow more air before its natural threshold (Peak torque at lower RPM).

Thats what VCT is there for, make more torque sub 5000rpm and will also make surge less likely by eating more of the air from the 20G. Should improve spool slightly too, more VE = more gas flow = more turbine driving.

Hey Dori, do you have any pics of the engine bay esp where the wastegate is connected = all the piping / screamer / intake etc?? Would help others I'm sure and the experienced members might pick up a thing or two with suggestions..:cool:

here's a nice one of the manifold/wastegate pipe glowing

262bgw1.jpg

but i put up proper pics a few pages back, go back & look for it, would've been around Jan-Feb sometime.

I know that, but as soon as the surge goes it will be spooling as per normal - as will be evidenced by the fact that the wastegate is open. If the wastegate needs to open, the shaft speed is MORE than it needs to be... simple as that.

Thats what VCT is there for, make more torque sub 5000rpm and will also make surge less likely by eating more of the air from the 20G. Should improve spool slightly too, more VE = more gas flow = more turbine driving.

I understand your reasoning, but I also understand my own :ph34r:..

As usual we each have convincing conflicting arguments. Lol. The way I see it, we could both be correct. To put it out there I am pitching my theory as a 'possibility', not a fact. lol

here's a nice one of the manifold/wastegate pipe glowing

262bgw1.jpg

but i put up proper pics a few pages back, go back & look for it, would've been around Jan-Feb sometime.

Thanks dude, that looks like a nice little oven there though..

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The trigger kit I have is similar to the one in the link below. While going through Facebook, I saw someone else mention a similar issue, and I’m starting to think this could be related to the crank gear itself. I understand these parts are CNC machined, but maybe some earlier versions or individual pieces might have slight inconsistencies—it just doesn’t look right in my case. https://www.facebook.com/share/16an8evZd9/?mibextid=wwXIfr I originally installed the crank gear using the thin OEM washer, but as shown in the attached photo, the timing belt walks very close to the edge. When I tried using a Nitto washer—which is thicker—it actually made the issue worse. The belt walks about 1mm off the front edge, which raises more concern about alignment.   I’ve gone through the full process of elimination:   The tensioner pulley and bolt are brand new and installed correctly. The bolt isn’t bent and is oriented properly. The back of the tensioner and the idler pulley are clean and seated correctly. The idler sits slightly more forward, which I understand is due to its design. I’ve experimented with both tight and loose belt tension, but it makes no difference. As soon as the engine runs, the belt immediately walks forward again—even if I reset it beforehand.     At this point, I’m considering replacing the crank gear with your Race Version 1 (12-tooth), but before purchasing, I wanted to ask:   Are you aware of any alignment issues when using this gear? Would this gear help keep the belt aligned correctly, or could the walking still occur? Does it work with a standard missing-tooth crank and rear washer? Is there any specific crank setup or install procedure required?     For reference, I’m not using a front washer, as the PRP crank gear seems to replace the need for one.   Looking forward to your advice.
    • Yep, looks that way. Never driven an E30 or R31 so I can only imagine  
    • Yuh, My new R34 box is sitting on the workshop floor (in its large shipping box, which is a nice thing on its own), along with a front plate to convert to push clutch. There was no way I was interested in rebuilding my existing one. Was only partly interested in the risk of buying a used one. But, if you want a 2nd hander, I can point you to one in/near Melbourne at least. @Komdotkom has one that should be in good enough condition to be usable. I don't think it's in a for sale thread, you'd have to message him. @redzedhas one that definitely needs a rebuild.
    • I used to love going to Amaroo to watch the HQ series go for broke (eventually stopped due to lack of spare parts) and also the Porsche series.  It was so cool to back your car up to nearly the edge of the viewing barrier and party with your friends, having a bbq and alcoholic/non drinks. It was such a family/mates atmosphere
×
×
  • Create New...