Jump to content
SAU Community

Kando Dynamics Turbo

SimonR32

By SimonR32,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

34GeeTeeTee Grand Master

34GeeTeeTee

Posted
Posted

U are spot on. Thats why i try to convince most customers to do everything at once then to keep adding parts that require a retune. Costs more up front but saves alot down the track

Hence why it has taken me 2 years to finish my damn car, because i KEPT adding to it.... :P BUT overall it will be worth it once its all tuned....

  • Replies 6k
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Popular Posts

Dale FZ1
Dale FZ1

My 30DET is now running TDO6H 25G, budget build with Hybrid manifold and 50mm Turbosmart gate. Turbine is the 11 blade option with 12cm housing. Tighe camshafts correctly dialled. Track car, chasin

R31Nismoid
R31Nismoid

And r33_racer or whatever also had around that figure too? Maybe it was 380? (struggling to recall)

T04GTR
T04GTR

are theese rubbish china turbos with a badge thats made in japan?

Posted Images

DVS JEZ Grand Master

DVS JEZ

Posted
Posted

So if u were to run 15psi Jez how much would u expect it to creep ?

As BSA said. This was the minimum boost we

Could run which means no boost controller at all. We even held the wastegate flap open and it still climbed past 22psi

GTScotT Grand Master

GTScotT

Posted
Posted

Except when the minimum boost it will run is 18psi. Ask Mitcho. I dont feel its safe to try max the injectors out and leave them running like that.

there are plenty of successful highflows running 15psi or less mate, cmon........

Mitcho_7 Mentor

Mitcho_7

Posted
Posted

Except when the minimum boost it will run is 18psi. Ask Mitcho. I dont feel its safe to try max the injectors out and leave them running like that.

Yeh, it's a bit of a lucky dip with the actuator you get with the HG turbos. I asked for a 14psi several times but on the dyno it wouldn't run any less than 18psi like Jez mentioned. I dont know if there's anyway to tell what actuator it is without it being on the dyno either, so you won't know til you get it tuned...

Mitcho_7 Mentor

Mitcho_7

Posted
Posted (edited)

Or 20 psi like I found haha

More boost the bigger the smile :D

The more tears long term as well maybe haha!

20 psi is probably fine though and it's not like you are hitting 20psi all day everyday either. It'd be for a couple of seconds max on the street. If you are at a track on full load for several laps or whatever then it might not be ideal for a stock engines longevity...

On a side note, birds made 250+rwkw on only 16psi with his ss1pu I think. So good numbers are possible without needing to run lots of boost.

Edited by Mitcho_7
Manuel Kasko Grand Master

Manuel Kasko

Posted
Posted

The more tears long term as well maybe haha!

20 psi is probably fine though and it's not like you are hitting 20psi all day everyday either. It'd be for a couple of seconds max on the street. If you are at a track on full load for several laps or whatever then it might not be ideal for a stock engines longevity...

On a side note, birds made 250+rwkw on only 16psi with his ss1pu I think. So good numbers are possible without needing to run lots of boost.

Yeah we put birds results down to difference in dyno.

Or he has a healthy engine.

Jez warned me about tracking the car on 20psi but I dont have plans to track it just yet.

When I do I will source a better quality actuator with say 14psi then bring it up using my ebc

Anyways lol talking about hyper gear in kando thread.

Back on topic

What ever happened with the bloke and his cracked comp wheel?

Birds Grand Master

Birds

Posted
Posted

lol thought I was in the HG thread for a second.

On a side note, birds made 250+rwkw on only 16psi with his ss1pu I think. So good numbers are possible without needing to run lots of boost.

Yer 258rwkw and 16psi from the SS1PU highflow, though interestingly, it was sitting at 15psi where it made peak power. There's definitely more in it too - my setup has also been said to have a lot of restrictions, though I do have quite a healthy engine. RacePace's dyno has never been said to read happy, however, Jez's could read low too.

In the end, screw figures, all that matters is whether it puts a smile on your face when you mash the pedal, and mine does :)

adam999111 Enthusiast

adam999111

Posted
Posted

Hey guys. I'm getting a td06sl2-25g. Just wondering is it work the risk of getting the anti surge housing. Or should I just stick to what works and get one without anti surge. Btw 10cm rear with a/r 0.60 comp housing

GTScotT Grand Master

GTScotT

Posted
Posted

Hey guys. I'm getting a td06sl2-25g. Just wondering is it work the risk of getting the anti surge housing. Or should I just stick to what works and get one without anti surge. Btw 10cm rear with a/r 0.60 comp housing

The general consensus here is to get the T67 instead. The specs of the wheels are the same, but the T67 uses a TD07 shaft which is thicker and stronger.

The T67 also has a .70 AR comp housing, which will effectively need less boost for the same levels of flow, and is an oil only turbo which makes it a bit neater to set up in the bay.

Go the T67 10cm!

adam999111 Enthusiast

adam999111

Posted
Posted

Nah I didn't mean 20g I meant 25g. I think it will be too laggy and a headache to fit low mount on standard manifold (0.70 a/r) which is what I want to do hence why I would like the 0.60. The only difference is the housing a/r and the shaft diameter which is only 8% smaller. I would like to see full boost before 4000 on around 18psi. I haven't seen a t67 reach full boost before 4000rpm on 98. I would be happy to be corrected as I could go a t67 with billet wheel.

GTScotT Grand Master

GTScotT

Posted
Posted

Mate the difference between a TD06SL2 and a T67 (in terms of performance) is only the difference in the comp cover.

That seriously wont effect spool like what you are imagining, its more so going to effect how much flow the compressor can give at what pressure ratio. And as stated the larger housing is going to need less pressure to flow the same amount. The spool difference is likely to be negligable.

Trying to fit it on the standard lowmount though, now your talking a different can of beans... And I suggest you consider a hypergear instead. Be it myself, I would rather a standard issue hypergear G3 than I would a T67 on a low mount. If you were to put a highmount into it I would then say Go the T67.

adam999111 Enthusiast

adam999111

Posted
Posted

I disagree that spoil difference is negligible. Unless negligible is 300rpm. A larger housing will take longer to compress air as its the same wheel filling a larger area. Regardless the question was with regards to the anti surge housing

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The Bogan
      NC MX5

      By The Bogan · Posted

      Version 1 aluminium airbox is.......not acceptable No pics as I "didn't like the look.....alot" Even after all my "CAD", and measurements, the leg near the fusebox just didn't sit right as it ended up about 10mm long and made the angle of the dangle look wrong, the height was a little short as well, meh, I wasn't that confident that Version 1 was going to be an instant winner I might give Version 2 another go, there's plenty of aluminium at work, but, after having in on and off a few times, and laying in the old OEM airbox without the new pod filter and MAF, there may be an option to modify the OEM air box and still use the Autoexe front cover and filter.... maybe This >  Needs to fit in here, but using the panel, and not the pod, the MAF will need to fit in the airbox though> I'm thinking as the old OEM box and Autoexe cover that is sitting in the shed is just sitting around doing nothing, and they are relatively abundant and cheap to replace if I mess it up and need another, it may well fit with some modifications to how the Autoexe brackets mounts to the rad support, and some dremiling to move it get in there, should give me some more room for activities, as I don't want to move the MAF and affect the tune Sealing the hole it requires to stick it in the air box is simple, a tight fit and some pinch weld will seal it up tight  I am calling this a later problem though
    • Dose Pipe Sutututu
      Ethanol Content Sensor - Always at 11%?

      By Dose Pipe Sutututu · Posted

      and it ends up being already priced in as though you're just on 91RON without any ethanol. Car will lose a bit of economy as the short and long term fuel trims bring down the AFR back to stoich or whatever it is for cruise/idle for the engine.  
    • soviet_merlin
      Ethanol Content Sensor - Always at 11%?

      By soviet_merlin · Posted

      Oh, you are right. But, in Australia E10 is based on 91RON fuel and ends up being 94RON. Hence it being the cheaper option for economy cars. The more performance oriented cars go for the 98RON fuel that has no ethanol mixed in. The only step up we have left then at some petrol stations is E85.
    • niZmO_Man
      Lock up the old for sale / wtb threads.

      By niZmO_Man · Posted

      There is a warning that "this thread is super old" but they ignore that anyway...
    • TurboTapin
      Ethanol Content Sensor - Always at 11%?

      By TurboTapin · Posted

      With 10% Ethanol, we're talking 2-3% fuel consumption difference. The emissions reductions and octane boost in my opinion far outweigh this almost non existent loss.    My tanks sitting at 80%. Luckily that should go down fast as I'm on vacation again for the next two weeks. 
×
×
  • Create New...