Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

kinugawa 20g td06 l2 10cm

std manifold with tial 44mm gate

GReddy plenum copy

trust fmic

Power fc

deatschwerks 740cc side feed

z32 afm in cooler pipe

044 in tank

split fires and strait pipes

Caltex E85 305kw atw on 22 psi (minimal timing,Trent reckons had another 15-20 kw in her, but its more than enough for slider)

best fun ive ever had in a car

hahah

i dont have temp reading for intake charge Roy, but the hot side inter cooler piping was very hot to touch. The cooler must be a pretty old type, that im guessing is discontinued. I havnt seen another one like it, and came on the car when i bought it. Who knows could be a fake. Just has large Trust logo on the face of it. It seem to do a good job as the outlet charge pipes were much cooler than the inlet side.

Cool. Being hot to touch isnt a great indicator as a session at EC with std turbo had the hot side of my HKS cooler damn hot. But inlet temps were still 25deg C within ambient...so the inlet temp air temp is the real measure of whether you are cooking the air too much. Rule of thumb is an extra 10 deg C inlet temp is 1% power loss

Nah i got the V band clamp, thats what is on the turbo and im trying to bolt on the one on the ebay link. But i knew it was not going to fit like you said Simon i thought id poke around and look just in case i was missing something. Now Eiji is saying send him pics of what i was sent as i sent him the pics in this thread saying it doesnt fit. So maybe something was missing in the post to join it together somehow?

But it still looks impossible to fit so i have no idea what he is going to say lol

yeah with the 06ll2-20g on the rb25 the egt is getting too hot on 98 as the rear is really too small to for rb25 even with the 10cm. The e85 cheats and allows you to stretch it legs abit.

Eiji replied after he saw the pics and said "There are 3 x lock plates and 6 x bolt for this housing to fit TD06SL2 core. All you need to do is bolt it up to the stock core and lock it directly."

Am i crazy? I really dont get what he means? Beside the bolt on core this is all i got with it:

photo5.jpg

photo8.jpg

It looks like it comes with a v band converter ring. Without seeing it in person it looks like the ring is held in place by hte normal 3 bolts / plates then allows the vclamp to attach the cartridge.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I know why it happened and I’m embarrassed to say but I was testing the polarity of one of the led bulb to see which side was positive with a 12v battery and that’s when it decided to fry hoping I didn’t damage anything else
    • I came here to note that is a zener diode too base on the info there. Based on that, I'd also be suspicious that replacing it, and it's likely to do the same. A lot of use cases will see it used as either voltage protection, or to create a cheap but relatively stable fixed voltage supply. That would mean it has seen more voltage than it should, and has gone into voltage melt down. If there is something else in the circuit dumping out higher than it should voltages, that needs to be found too. It's quite likely they're trying to use the Zener to limit the voltage that is hitting through to the transistor beside it, so what ever goes to the zener is likely a signal, and they're using the transistor in that circuit to amplify it. Especially as it seems they've also got a capacitor across the zener. Looks like there is meant to be something "noisy" to that zener, and what ever it was, had a melt down. Looking at that picture, it also looks like there's some solder joints that really need redoing, and it might be worth having the whole board properly inspected.  Unfortunately, without being able to stick a multimeter on it, and start tracing it all out, I'm pretty much at a loss now to help. I don't even believe I have a climate control board from an R33 around here to pull apart and see if any of the circuit appears similar to give some ideas.
    • Nah - but you won't find anything on dismantling the seats in any such thing anyway.
    • Could be. Could also be that they sit around broken more. To be fair, you almost never see one driving around. I see more R chassis GTRs than the Renault ones.
    • Yeah. Nah. This is why I said My bold for my double emphasis. We're not talking about cars tuned to the edge of det here. We're talking about normal cars. Flame propagation speed and the amount of energy required to ignite the fuel are not significant factors when running at 1500-4000 rpm, and medium to light loads, like nearly every car on the road (except twin cab utes which are driven at 6k and 100% load all the time). There is no shortage of ignition energy available in any petrol engine. If there was, we'd all be in deep shit. The calorific value, on a volume basis, is significantly different, between 98 and 91, and that turns up immediately in consumption numbers. You can see the signal easily if you control for the other variables well enough, and/or collect enough stats. As to not seeing any benefit - we had a couple of EF and EL Falcons in the company fleet back in the late 90s and early 2000s. The EEC IV ECU in those things was particularly good at adding in timing as soon as knock headroom improved, which typically came from putting in some 95 or 98. The responsiveness and power improved noticeably, and the fuel consumption dropped considerably, just from going to 95. Less delta from there to 98 - almost not noticeable, compared to the big differences seen between 91 and 95. Way back in the day, when supermarkets first started selling fuel from their own stations, I did thousands of km in FNQ in a small Toyota. I can't remember if it was a Starlet or an early Yaris. Anyway - the supermarket servos were bringing in cheap fuel from Indonesia, and the other servos were still using locally refined gear. The fuel consumption was typically at least 5%, often as much as 8% worse on the Indo shit, presumably because they had a lot more oxygenated component in the brew, and were probably barely meeting the octane spec. Around the same time or maybe a bit later (like 25 years ago), I could tell the difference between Shell 98 and BP 98, and typically preferred to only use Shell then because the Skyline ran so much better on it. Years later I found the realtionship between them had swapped, as a consequence of yet more refinery closures. So I've only used BP 98 since. Although, I must say that I could not fault the odd tank of United 98 that I've run. It's probably the same stuff. It is also very important to remember that these findings are often dependent on region. With most of the refineries in Oz now dead, there's less variability in local stuff, and he majority of our fuels are not even refined here any more anyway. It probably depends more on which SE Asian refinery is currently cheapest to operate.
×
×
  • Create New...