Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Protection? I would think there's more protection buying from an actual shop than some random on ebay.

Tuspeed is a great place to buy according to my mate, I will be going there soon as I have a gift voucher to use.

Protection? I would think there's more protection buying from an actual shop than some random on ebay.

Tuspeed is a great place to buy according to my mate, I will be going there soon as I have a gift voucher to use.

No shops in Adelaide I can buy these from without paying an extra $200 for the set! eBay have buyer protection so if you don't get your goods you can get your cash back, internet shops don't have this at all.

No shops in Adelaide I can buy these from without paying an extra $200 for the set! eBay have buyer protection so if you don't get your goods you can get your cash back, internet shops don't have this at all.

Not getting them is one thing, what if they dont work after you have given feedback, or what if you need a warranty claim down the track?

I get all my fuel gear from Injectorsonline, they are cheap and local if I need to return what I bought, lucky as I have returned quite a few fuel system parts over the years.

Let me know if you want me to get trade pricing for you Paul, they look after me fairly well as I have spent a heap there lately.

man if they are anything like the 6b in terms of quality i definitely rekon go for it.

on E85 ull be talking 350kw for sure, thats freaking massive man. DO IT.

only problem is ill be missing out on the spare install kit :(

EDIT: on second thought buying the CHRA and housing sepparate is actualy HEAPS CHEAP. Under 550 for a brand new turbo, and I already have the oil lines and shit.

haha..I was thinking exactly the same thing, Its a win win for both of us..

So you like my brea manifold idea hey??

Does that mean I need to re-weld your wastgate inlet again buddy? Is it highmount? Why not try it out on the stock one first, I think you will be surprised...

man if they are anything like the 6b in terms of quality i definitely rekon go for it.

on E85 ull be talking 350kw for sure, thats freaking massive man. DO IT.

only problem is ill be missing out on the spare install kit :(

EDIT: on second thought buying the CHRA and housing sepparate is actualy HEAPS CHEAP. Under 550 for a brand new turbo, and I already have the oil lines and shit.

what install kit?? I wont need the water lines anymore..just an oil line..

Does that mean I need to re-weld your wastgate inlet again buddy? Is it highmount? Why not try it out on the stock one first, I think you will be surprised...

nah scotty its sidemount buddy...you wont need to weld anything

http://www.braeautof...om/apps/photos/

maybe a new intake pipe..or i could just use a 3-4 inch silicon adapter..

DW im sure i can find something for you to do :D

I should have my Kelway high mount manifold by the end of the week if your keen to see some pics. I think he charges $650 for an SR.

its always good to show photos of whats out there. I just picked up a 6boost for mine, but everyones seen those lol

To anyone whos interested... Have decided I will go a 20G again, after doing some homework on other options available. May later upgrade the compressor to a 68HTA item.

After some research it appears 3071s are a favoured item on the SR, but there are a few people out there who say they have done both and prefer the 20G. One particular person saying hes done 28RS, 3071R and 20G and believes the 20G to be a 'you wont look back' option. I know the 3076 is a bit of a late spooler without a very careful or twin scroll setup and found out the FP 73 HTA wheel wont blow my mind in terms of response, and in fact will probably not outspool the 20G. Considering the 20G is capable of the power I want I think I am fairly well sold already.

ARTZ if you want to flog yours let me know, we can work something out!

I cant get the manifold combo out of my head, it could be awesome.(damn you Simon and your ridiculous amounts of power).

It could also just mean more headaches , will my cooler handle it, is my cooler piping big enough, will stock plenum be enough, etc etc..

It could also mean a 10 second car... :D 

So these t67 on a rb25 when are they hitting full boost at? And is the power you get similar to a 3076?

We have been discussing and posting results for 187 pages now and it turns out these turbos are actually complete rubbish...

SEARCHHH!H!H!H!H!!H!H!H

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I don't like "actual computers" for in car use. They take time to boot up, have OS annoyances, and so on. Arduinos etc are ready to go a few seconds after power on, don't mind being agressively powere cycled, because everything is non-volatile, don't mind being shaken and stirred.
    • As Fred would tell us, it's all about interpreting the rules. It's not a water sprayer, it's a water mister... But everything else you've said, 100%! Even a raspberry Pi would be great, use HDMI out for a display, and add a raspberry Pi CANBus hat to read values out from the ECU.
    • Being a race car, and being in the era of the Arduino, one would think it would take little effort to build a controller to do the spraying based on a real physical measurment. Waaaaay back in the dim dark AS days, JE "designed" (as in, he had help) a microcontroller based intercooler spray system. It watched the difference between a temp sensor stuck on the core and one in the free air in front of the cooler, and if the temperature difference exceeded a (settable) threshold, it would activate the sprays. Thus, it only ran water when there was an actual need for water. If you stop to think about the actual physical things that are going on in that stack of coolers, there's probably at least a couple of triggering conditions one could come up with, and one could probably even run one pump with more than one solenoid valve, to allow water to be placed where it is needed, or at all points at once (if it is needed at all points). We're in the age of science baby. But.... I suspect that intercooler water sprays are on the forbidden list in most circuit classes, no? So only good for Targa type stuff?
    • I'll just leave this with, holy shit, those cars at work are awesome, and this will look wicked!
    • Could you modify this duct so instead it pushes the extra air through the radiator too and not down and out? For temps, I know it's not the greatest idea, but as a bit of a last resort, you could use a very intermittent misting spray onto the front of the coolers/rad. You don't want to be soaking them such that water is dripping off, but a small most on/off so that the water evaporates. That point of it constantly evaporating, rather than being soaked in water, will pull a LOT of heat out of the cooler. I'm literally thinking just the little mist sprayers for a garden from Bunnings. Being in a low humidity climate it will help even more! The other trick if you want to be ghetto is some shade cloth hung in the opening, and keep it wet. Pretty much now it's acting like an evap cooler on a house, but cooling the air you need to use to cool the radiator...   On a topic to think about too though, when air enters through the bumper, is it all nicely ducted from the edges of that opening back at a nice angle, or is it like most cars, and the edge of the opening just stops, and suddenly it's wayyy wider behind that? If it does the later, get it shrouded out at nice angles. When that opening changes too rapidly, it can actually cause a high pressure zone between the front bar and radiator, and limit air flow into that area, which means less air for cooling, as it effectively stalls the air, AND adds to drag...
×
×
  • Create New...