Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Stock airbox could lose you 5-10kw nothing to significant, i am thinking of adding a pod out the bottom of it as well through the unused intercooler hole .But the power delivery I find is different, it comes on smoother so full boost doesn't hit quite so hard, its a little more transient.. Also Trent set the gate up to ease onto boost which smoothed it out some more.. Change this and stick a pod on and I have no doubt boost would hit like a hammer.. Depends which you prefer I guess and this is the way i wanted it

My timing belt has about 60k on it now I will do cam gears when I change it..might give the Brae manifold a go to then too..For now i just want to enjoy driving it for a while. :D

ahhhhhhh cheers for the heads up. Yours really is close to the manifold. I'm pretty sure I can get my gate up a fair bit closer to the manifold. if not whats your feeling on me replacing the 40mm pipe with say a 50mm pipe while still using a 40mm gate.

I would have thought that a 40mm gate was too small for the application. I have a 44mm one with a smaller turbo and engine and it's probably only just up to the task. I would be looking at least at a 44mm or 50/60mm plus a larger pipe feeding it as you suggested.

hey urtwhistle, FWIW my 6boost has the gate just inches off the collector and points maybe 2 or 3 degrees northward (i suspect they do that to promote flow going towards the gate).

yours is both long and looks like it doesnt point up at all, just straight down. id say work on that, but i dont feel the comp 40 will hold you back at this stage

can u fit the td05 in the stock turbo position?

and ive got one of those china split dump screamers (havnt used it yet) could i just run an internal gate td05 with this so i dont even need a wastegate?

ill re phrase that for you, the TD05 can bolt up to the stock manifold (with a small spacer) they are the same flange type (T3 open).

the existing dump will be useless regardless of what Kando option you decide on... you will need to make a new dump and if you want the best results you will also want to use an external gate.

if you are thinking you want to keep things as bolt on as possible, you should really be looking at the hypergear thread. he also gets excellent results from his turbo, and picking one of these over his is usually only an interest factor. you could get out of it a lot cheaper if you just stick to hypergear.

maybe consider sending your stock turbo to him and having it rebuilt to suit the exact power you want.

if you are thinking you want to keep things as bolt on as possible, you should really be looking at the hypergear thread. he also gets excellent results from his turbo, and picking one of these over his is usually only an interest factor. you could get out of it a lot cheaper if you just stick to hypergear.

maybe consider sending your stock turbo to him and having it rebuilt to suit the exact power you want.

I dont need it to stay stock, was just seeing what i can get away with. I don't mind going high mount if need be, ill just evaluate it when the time comes. cheers for all you're help.

:)

Nice work Artz! would be interesting to take a ride in each others cars one day.

My gate pipe comes off the 6boost and turns like 130-140 degrees, the pipe is 300-400mm long, gate sits next to the PS rack. Definitely not an ideal setup if you go off all the recommendations in here but it controls boost perfectly..

Nice work Artz! would be interesting to take a ride in each others cars one day.

My gate pipe comes off the 6boost and turns like 130-140 degrees, the pipe is 300-400mm long, gate sits next to the PS rack. Definitely not an ideal setup if you go off all the recommendations in here but it controls boost perfectly..

Who cares... Just tune your billet wheel :whistling:

Ok guys, for those that are interested I got my Kelway manifold today so here are a few pics.

He makes his own collector, he doesn't buy the pre made one.

Nice looking manifold. I wouldnt be fussed whether he makes his own collector or buys them, I just want someone to make one out of tube. Then we see how well they are fabricated and welded and it will be half the weight :)

Who cares... Just tune your billet wheel :whistling:

Nope

By tube I assume you mean the material like used in s/steel manifolds? If so I'd rather the weight of steam pipe any day for its strength and ability to hold in more heat in comparison.

Think hes more referring to the thickness??? steam pipe is forgiving cause if your fab work is second rate you can just hammer it with the die grinder a luxury you don't get when working with 1.6/2mm tube... what wall thickness are the greddy manifolds Roy?

anyone know why my idle keeps bouncing between 1500-2000 whenever i pull up at the lights :unsure:

it will settle after a bit (2-3 minutes maybe) but its got me stuffed, Trents been stuffing with it tune half the day but it still there, figure it must be something mechanical..AAC valve or a leak maybe..

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • When you crank your car, and hit it with a timing light, can you see a steady crank timing?
    • Oh, forgot to add, A few months ago I was getting mixture codes and the car was using crap loads of fuel. You could smell the unburned fuel in the exhaust, it was crazy strong. Economy was over 17.5 l/100 and usually around 19. I smoked the engine and found a leaky CCV hose which I replaced and then I replaced my two pre cat O2 sensors, I also replaced the MAF. This fixed my mixture codes and improved my exonomy but I'm still 14 - 15 l/100 when pottering about town so something is still amiss. Throttle response is much better and it has more pep but I'd like to know why it's still so thirsty (and I'm hoping that whatever it is gives me a bit more poke).    
    • Car is on factory injectors/z32 maf/ q45 throttle body/ z32 ecu with nistune 
    • Hello all, currently finishing up a rb25 swap into my s14. Having issues with starting, car has spark (confirmed by pulling a plug and watching it spark), has fuel(confirmed by checking pulse/voltage at injectors all spark plugs are soaked in fuel). Car cranks over and pops into the exhaust with a heavy fuel smell but no attempt to start or run, I have torn the timing cover off and triple confirmed timing, turned the CAS in multiple spots both directions, attempted to start with coolant temp and maf unplugged, checked my fuel lines and made sure they weren’t backwards, checked voltage at cas/injectors/coilpacks, made sure all the grounds in the harness are connected and added a few grounding straps (1 from chassis to block, 1 from chassis to head, and 1 from chassis to igniter chip) I am getting stumped here. As a last ditch effort I made a full grounding harness tonight that’s going to run from the battery and add an extra ground from the battery onto the coil pack harness/igniter chip/ intake manifold/ Wiring specialties harness ground/ and alternator. I’m hoping maybe the grounding harness will fix it here but posting here to see if anyone has any other ideas on what else I can check. My fuel pressure is unknown right gauge will be here tomorrow.  IMG_3206.mov
    • yeah I was shocked when I checked my spare OEM on and as below that's how they come from Nissan. (side interesting note new NEO gearbox and replacement park lack the brass bush on the tips and its just all alloy) unsure about damage to the box currently back at 1110 to be pulled down/inspected and selector fork replaced as he built it previously and given the never before seen failure on his billet forks he is replacing it under warranty. He said he has used always OEM the keyway tab without issue for years so it could be an unlucky coincidence. I did talk to him about the sharp corners and stress concentration too. Re: hard shifts i got 7+ years out of the OEM one and the fork itself failed not the keyway. so could be bad luck as I said or an age thing + heat cycles in box and during fabrication of billet?
×
×
  • Create New...