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It wasnt known till last week. Too many variables still.

I pitty tuners! Especially you :) It seems so many cars get given to you and they are just loads of problems and so hard to get right :( Will be interesting to see if you can get results that give a clear indication of whether the anti surge housings hurt performance at all.

My kando t67 antisurge has drilled holses and a machined slot, i see no reason why this would work any different to HKS/turbonetics style antisurge?

Did DORIs home brew anti surge just have holes or did it have a connecting slot to the front of the compressor also?

LOL yeah i got the Ryobi drill out and went to town with the housing

Hey I'm new to sau been on ns for years

Well ok my set up

Rb20 in s13

Refreshed motor new rings bearing metal head gasket cleaned block

ATM it's running stock turbo and running gear

I want to go td05 18g for response

Have been told to run td06 20g but I don't need or want that much power

Has anyone running a td05 18 ex gate ?

The power I'm after is 220kw

I'm going to be running

550 injectors

Z32

Stock manifold with 38mm gate tail welded on

Niss tune

What kind of power should I get?

I want tge power and response for drift !

-Colin

For 220 and good response why not send the stock RB20 turbo to hypergear?

He could easily make you up a turbo to suit. Best of all, it would bolt back into place where your one is now.

I think he charges $960 for that service and the other parts should all be off the shelf. no external gate, no big costs etc.

I'll buy one if some monkey shows some half encouraging results haha

i'll be a monkey if somebody gives me money :D

wouldnt mind installing an EGT sensor which means turbo out, maybe Stao can do me a billet core for easy swaps..but yeah..no $$$$ atm...

td05 on an RB20 has been covered within the last 20 pages, you could read the thread that we all put a lot of effort into and do it some justice...

advice still stands @ 220 = highflow. highflow is still a brand new turbo, just with your old housings. that way your brand new turbo bolts back into place where the old one was.

Now that I am actually making some progress and have some idea when this thing will be done, thought I should give an update on my build. Here is my setup:

Stock RB25 in an R32

Kando T67 10cm on a 6boost manifold

Tial 44mm external gate

Freddy Plenum

Bosch 1000cc injectors

Link G4 ECU running E85

Going to Scotty's next weekend for fabrication of the exhaust, intake and intercooler piping and have a tune booked with Trent at Chequered Tuning September 3rd.

Car has been off the road since SAU Nats last October, so to say I am excited would be an understatement.

Now that I am actually making some progress and have some idea when this thing will be done, thought I should give an update on my build. Here is my setup:

Stock RB25 in an R32

Kando T67 10cm on a 6boost manifold

Tial 44mm external gate

Freddy Plenum

Bosch 1000cc injectors

Link G4 ECU running E85

Going to Scotty's next weekend for fabrication of the exhaust, intake and intercooler piping and have a tune booked with Trent at Chequered Tuning September 3rd.

Car has been off the road since SAU Nats last October, so to say I am excited would be an understatement.

Cool, I will have another GTSt to play with :) Keen to see the result with the R32 gearing

Cool, I will have another GTSt to play with :) Keen to see the result with the R32 gearing

Already have r33 diff ratios and putting a 25 box in as we speak after losing reverse on the way home from sau nats. so no 32 gearing

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This is a huge worry for me, because my car is relatively low mileage (only 45k km when purchased) so although I plan to own the car for a long time, a mismatched odometer reading would be hugely detrimental to resale should the day come to sell the car. Thankfully this only occurred a mile or two from home so it wasn't extremely significant. Also, the OCD part of me would be extremely irked if the numbers that showed on my dash doesn't match the actual ageing of the car. Diagnosing I had been in communication with the well renown GTR shop in the USA, U.P.garage up near University Point in Washington state. After some back and forth they said it could be one of two things: 1) The speedometer sensor that goes into the transfer case is broken 2) The actual cluster has a component that went kaput. They said this is common in older Nissan gauge clusters and that would indicate a rebuild is necessary. As I tried to figure out if it was problem #1, I resolved problem #2 by sending my cluster over to Relentless Motorsports in Dallas, TX, whom is local to me and does cluster and ECU rebuilds. He is a one man operation who meticulously replaces every chip, resistor, capacitor, and electronic component on the PCB's on a wide variety of classic and modern cars. His specialty is Lexus and Toyota, but he came highly recommended by Erik of U.P.garage since he does the rebuilds for them on GTR clusters.  For those that don't know, on R32 and R33 GTR gearboxes, the speedometer sensor is mounted in the transfer case and is purely an analog mini "generator" (opposite of an alternator essentially). Based on the speed the sensor spins it generates an AC sine wave voltage up to 5V, and sends that via two wires up to the cluster which then interprets it via the speedometer dial. The signal does NOT go to the ECU first, the wiring goes to the cluster first then the ECU after (or so I'm told).  Problems/Roadblocks I first removed the part from the car on the underside of the transfer case (drain your transfer case fluid/ATF first, guess who found out that the hard way?), and noted the transfer case fluid was EXTREMELY black, most likely never changed on my car. When attempting to turn the gears it felt extremely gritty, as if shttps://imgur.com/6TQCG3xomething was binding the shaft from rotating properly. After having to reflow the solder on my AFM sensors based on another SAU guide here, I attempted to disassemble the silicone seal on the back of the sensor to see what happened inside the sensor; turns out, it basically disintegrated itself. Wonderful. Not only had the electrical components destroyed themselves, the magnetic portion on what I thought was on the shaft also chipped and was broken. Solution So solution: find a spare part right? Wrong. Nissan has long discontinued the proper sensor part number 32702-21U19, and it is no longer obtainable either through Nissan NSA or Nissan Japan. I was SOL without proper speed or mileage readings unless I figured out a way to replace this sensor. After tons of Googling and searching on SAU, I found that there IS however a sensor that looks almost exactly like the R33/260RS one: a sensor meant for the R33/R34 GTT and GTS-T with the 5 speed manual. The part number was 25010-21U00, and the body, plug, and shaft all looked exactly the same. The gear was different at the end, but knowing the sensor's gear is held on with a circlip, I figured I could just order the part and swap the gears. Cue me ordering a new part from JustJap down in Kirrawee, NSW, then waiting almost 3 weeks for shipping and customs clearing. The part finally arrives and what did I find? The freaking shaft lengths don't match. $&%* I discussed with Erik how to proceed, and figuring that I basically destroyed the sensor trying to get the shaft out of the damaged sensor from my car. we deemed it too dangerous to try and attempt to swap shafts to the correct length. I had to find a local CNC machinist to help me cut and notch down the shaft. After tons of frantic calling on a Friday afternoon, I managed to get hold of someone and he said he'd be able to do it over half a week. I sent him photos and had him take measurements to match not only the correct length and notch fitment, but also a groove to machine out to hold the retentive circlip. And the end result? *chef's kiss* Perfect. Since I didn't have pliers with me when I picked up the items, I tested the old gear and circlip on. Perfect fit. After that it was simply swapping out the plug bracket to the new sensor, mount it on the transfer case, refill with ATF/Nissan Matic Fluid D, then test out function. Thankfully with the rebuilt cluster and the new sensor, both the speedometer and odometer and now working properly!   And there you have it. About 5-6 weeks of headaches wrapped up in a 15 minute photo essay. As I was told it is rare for sensors of this generation to die so dramatically, but you never know what could go wrong with a 25+ year old car. I HOPE that no one else has to go through this problem like I did, so with my take on a solution I hope it helps others who may encounter this issue in the future. For the TL;DR: 1) Sensor breaks. 2) Find a replacement GTT/GTS-T sensor. 3) Find a CNC machinist to have you cut it down to proper specs. 4) Reinstall then pray to the JDM gods.   Hope this guide/story helps anyone else encountering this problem!
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