Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

yes very tempted....looks i can only gain it definately has more top end and loses nothing anywhere else :D

its asking alot of my stock manifold, though in theory i could make the same power I do now with a little less boost...

to me the theoretical limit is in absolutes, so you could still gain midrange :)

its a gamble but seems worth it for sure! And it would be a true back to back for everyone moving forward.

Aren't you simply running moire boost so jump in mid range and power kind of expected?

need to compare thin blue power line to pink line, more power with less boost. i have a feeling the exhaust manifold heaps here too.

yeah i'm a little confused too Roy, the date on the paper is same date I got mine tuned yet neither graph looks to be mine, as mine seems to fall somewhere inbetween the pink and blue....its actually closer to the pink but with a bit more boost and im topping out earlier..Im wondering if the standard manifold is helping create a little more torque in my midrange as well..

and why is Staos car 10kms slower at 6060rpm??

r33e85tune001_zps3bc225db.jpg20gvspower_zpsb09b9c3c.jpg

the times also dont match, maybe an earlier tune than my final been used or maybe my tune with a high mount got a different result I dunno......obviously I dont yet fully understand the intricacies of dyno tuning but I daresay the small differences we see are just mechanical.....i was also running a 3.5 ex and screamer at time of tune..it has all been plumbed back now..

I think its fair to say the manifold has made some difference. But, it is also fair to say Staos new wheel can definitely pump more boost and power than mine ever could as other cars with the sl2 and high mount haven't made that much power that I know of and usually die out around 20psi... the fact he is making more power even though the boost is dropping off a good 3 psi has to say something about its performance...

unfortunately I'm unemployed and going back to school, so too strapped for cash (read missus will kill me if she sees me spend money on that car) to try it atm but it would be good too do as I think it would be an improvement..got any work Stao maybe I could do some deliveries or wash and detail your car or something, cause technically a fair trade is not spending money on my car right..at least thats what I tell the wife.? :rofl:

So I want a new turbo for my RB20DET as its going to be pointless swapping my VG30 OP6 turbo onto my RB20DET-R manifold. Thinking this TD06SL2 8cm with Garrett 60-1 compressor would be a good thing. I have Nistune, Z32 AFM, GT-R injectors, unopened motor, RB20DET-R spaghetti manifold. I am thinking internal gate as space will be at a premium with the turbo placement on that manifold for tapping the exhaust housing for ex. gate, and no way in hell am I cutting up the manifold itself. I'd like to shoot for 1.2-1.5bar boost and hopefully 220-240rwkw.

Is it going to be completely useless for my application?

I was otherwise going to go for a T3/T4 60 trim Garrett with ATP's 'ultimate internal gate' (ford bolt on type)to try and replicate the GTS-R's T04E as closely as possible but the Kando seems an equally good option for a lot less money by the time you factor in all the fittings and stuff.

Thoughts?

Hell no, I ain't selling that thing ever! And yeah I'd never chop it up, no way no how. Its been suggested I weld an elbow onto an external gate housing and run a gate off that, or run a spacer with a gate pipe between turbo and manifold, but I think I'm going to run out of room in either situation there (strut tower in the first instance and engine mounts in the second), so I just want to know if I can reasonably successfully run an internal gate at that kind of power/boost level.

Edited by floody

For 220-240 and internal gate why arent you considering a hypergear?

Get him to make you an SS1PU with a 3" vband outlet on the back, or you can just get the current turbo highflowed to that spec and it will bolt straight back on.

It will be the simplest possible setup you can imagine and should shit in 220. I cant understand why its being overlooked....

For 220-240 and internal gate why arent you considering a hypergear?

Get him to make you an SS1PU with a 3" vband outlet on the back, or you can just get the current turbo highflowed to that spec and it will bolt straight back on.

It will be the simplest possible setup you can imagine and should shit in 220. I cant understand why its being overlooked....

Mostly because I know nothing about them, nobody I know has ever used one, but looking at the spec on their website it sounds like a good thing. That said, its more expensive than even the Garrett option I'm looking at, and almost double the cost of the Kando for the turbo and v-band gate alone. Which is fine if its twice as good?

Edited by floody

lets not get our knickers in a twist.

I dont see how a garrett could be cheaper than a HG, or how you could consider a kando to be half the price if you had read this thread all the way through. Kando VS HG is something that has been discussed on nearly half the pages in here.

A HG shouldnt cost you any more than $1,100 regardless of which model your looking at. A kando will cost $800, plus $400 for a gate, and probably another $500 to hang the gate off the housing and make a custom dump. The HG will come with the same 6 bolt dump flange you have now if you want it to and will bolt right on as an internal gate.

None of the options available can be said to be better than the other, they all have their ups and downs and you need to read the threads to familiarize yourself with them.

lets not get our knickers in a twist.

I dont see how a garrett could be cheaper than a HG, or how you could consider a kando to be half the price if you had read this thread all the way through. Kando VS HG is something that has been discussed on nearly half the pages in here.

A HG shouldnt cost you any more than $1,100 regardless of which model your looking at. A kando will cost $800, plus $400 for a gate, and probably another $500 to hang the gate off the housing and make a custom dump. The HG will come with the same 6 bolt dump flange you have now if you want it to and will bolt right on as an internal gate.

None of the options available can be said to be better than the other, they all have their ups and downs and you need to read the threads to familiarize yourself with them.

The Garrett I am interested in is $740USD for the bare turbo with my choice of exhaust housing, $168usd for the v-band bolt on gate; $908AUD currently. Plus an unknown amount to ship.

The Kando is $785, including a bunch of fittings, choice of wastegate actuator etc.

The Hypergear is listed on site at $1150 for the bare turbo plus $180 for the wastegate, plus shipping.

All linked in my previous post.

So on my maths, so long as the Garrett doesn't cost more than $300 to ship it should come in as cheap as or cheaper than the HG's pre-shipping cost, and no, HG's $1330 isn't double $785 but its getting close. I don't need or want the 6 bolt flange I have now, because the long tube GTS-R manifold turns the turbo almost 90° and sites it lower than the non-R cast manifolds do; no matter what I will be having a V-band dump made.

My preference is for an internal gate turbo (either cast in or bolt on gate) with a V-band outlet.

Edited by floody

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Either the WG is reaching full opening, or it is not. The "it is not" case could only occur if there was not enough time available to swing the valve fully open during that boost event. I would consider that to be unlikely, as this is a commercial product that is in use elsewhere, so it really should work. But in your case, because there is definitely SOMETHING wrong, it should not be assumed that things like that are working as they should. You should put a video camera where it can see the actuator (if at all possible) during a run to see how far it is moving.
    • I think you're mostly on the ball there. With the straight gate, I suspect the weight of the spring will determine how quickly the gate can close, when not run with active pressure drive on both sides of the diaphragm. Otherwise, with drive on both sides of the diaphragm, you could almost go without a spring at all, only needing one to make sure that the thing was actually closed while completely off boost and not having pressure available to drive it closed. Butterfly valves have mostly symmetric loading when there is flow going through them, meaning that the gas hitting the upstream part of the blade is balanced by the gas hitting the downstream part of the blade, which means you don't need actuator torque to overcome any non-symmetric flow induced loads. But the gas flow does impart a purely normal load against the shaft, which transfers into the bush/bearing at each end of the shaft and does increase the torque required to make the shaft turn. Only a little, but it is there. I have no feeling for the amount of force involved in a WG application, but it certainly could make an argument for a decent spring weight being required. But all of this is just peripheral to the actual problem here.
    • The answer to this would be I followed the documentation from Turbosmart which said each spring pressure could achieve a maximum of 5x it's rated pressure so the included smallest spring being the 6psi had a range up to 30psi. I went with the 12 because I figured it'd likely hover around 15psi as a base pressure however I was obviously wrong.    I have a log here that I'll dig out that is purely wastegate and no Mac valve controlling anything.   If it can't hold anywhere near 12psi, does that mean the straight gate is virtually wide open during a run? Or am I thinking about this all wrong.   I could Tee Piece into the cooler pipe pre intercooler where the wastegate gets its feed, and send that to the ecu and see how that reads, I just don't have a spare pressure sensor currently that's all.
    • lol nice, I wouldn't worry about sanding back the filler to check for rust then. Yep very much a thing. Personally I don't do the panel beating, its very easy to have a panel beater sort that out for you. If they aren't doing any prep work the actual panel beating generally doesn't take long at all.  Have you taken before pictures before you started this project? I'd be keen to see the before and afters when you're done.
    • Some good discussion in here, for the most part I can't really add too much to it - thought I'd add some notes to the datalog screen shot that probably aren't news to anyone but a good prop... this is assuming 25psi-ish should be the boost ceiling given the first post refers to 23psi.   To state the obvious, this issue seems super weird.  Turbo speed seems pretty lethagic to build, like the turbo isn't getting as much drive as it needs - and it doesn't help that wgdc keeps rising AFTER boost target then completely shuts duty at a point, which in theory should have the straight gate dump heaps past the turbo and funnily enough causes the huge drop off.  It seems like pretty blunt boost control tuning but I'd not call that the primary issue, so much as possibly not helping the situation. I'm curious, what does a pull look like with purely mechanical boost control?  Like purely wastegate?   There are things in this log and story that make it sound like there could be a significant restriction in the intercooler piping or something - but then it's also overshooting boost target which is NOT what you'd expect with a restriction.   I can see where people are coming from with the non-linear wastegate bypass (not that any valves are linear for this kind of thing), but it still doesn't make sense that it can't hold <20psi on a 12psi spring.    Have you, or can you try measuring pressure pre-intercooler?  Be pretty interesting to see what's happening there vs in the intake manifold - sorry if I've repeated old ground, I've kinda skimmed over but I could have missed something.  In terms of comments regarding the wg spring being closer to boost target, I haven't used a straight gate but part of the reason for having close to wg target is about fighting backpressure as well - I might be wrong, but I'd have thought that part of the point of using a butterfly valve like the straight gate does you actually don't have to resist pressure at all, on EITHER side of the gate.   It shouldn't need too much leverage to start opening, the spring being more to do with where it triggers opening as opposed to resisting boost & EMAP, though smarter people can correct me if I'm wrong there.  
×
×
  • Create New...