Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Kando-TD06-RB25-dyno-chart.jpg

Swapped my rear housing to a 10cm, made 235kw on 18psi. Was expecting more, and the Stagea needs more being a big heavy car.

Mick had to put a shim in the turbosmart gate to stiffen the spring, as it didn't want to hold boost. You can see it peaks at 18-19psi and then tapers down rather quickly. Rubbish, my old tial off the skyline held boost rock solid.

Turbo didn't want to make any more power either apparently, which is pretty lame.

Specs:

Kando TD06H 10cm
Turbosmart comp gate (f**king rubish unit, never using it again!)

3 inch exhaust

return flow intercooler

high flow injectors
Haltech E11
Run in RWD
98 Octane

I guess I'll go a T67 next, or probably back to Garret. See what happens. Unless someone can suggest something good for 280-300kw? needs to be low mount though for uber stealth.

Adam I reckon its the return flow cooler. Those always cause havoc..

The turbo should make plenty more than that, especially with the H rear side. I'm assuming its a 20G compressor? 260+ should be more like it.

The fact the tuner thinks the turbo is running out of puff definitely tells me the restriction is in the intake side.

After seen Roy mentioning about the TD06H I went through all TD06H dyno readings on Trent's dyno and did comparison against the SL2 turbine. TD06H turbine appeared to be laggier without making any more power. You can try our billet SS2 comped SL2s that is a step up from the standard 20Gs, or I think a standard highflowed turbo would make more power.

depending on where the external gate is attached. won't make good results if it is welded on turbine housing, locating it to exhaust manifold would prove other wise.

Cheap return flow cooler do have heatsoaking issue and takes much longer to heat sink compare to a good branded cooler.

^^ This, if done right.

All Stao's attempts have been at 90 degrees to the flow I think, mine (Artz's) had a nicely die ground entry knife edge with a curved pipe. There is no way the exhaust flow can do a 90 degree bend while travelling at the speed of sound...

post-63525-0-13236700-1361261874_thumb.jpg

Adam I reckon its the return flow cooler. Those always cause havoc..

The turbo should make plenty more than that, especially with the H rear side. I'm assuming its a 20G compressor? 260+ should be more like it.

The fact the tuner thinks the turbo is running out of puff definitely tells me the restriction is in the intake side.

My thoughts exactly regarding what it "should" make. Interesting idea on the return flow cooler setup.

I like how the engine bay looks nearly stock (except the gate off the manifold). But if going the conventional intercooler setup to gain a extra 30-40kw then I'd be down for that.

Though pin-pointing whether it is the cooler setup holding it back, or if I just got a odd turbo or whatever, will be the tricky part.

My thoughts exactly regarding what it "should" make. Interesting idea on the return flow cooler setup.

I like how the engine bay looks nearly stock (except the gate off the manifold). But if going the conventional intercooler setup to gain a extra 30-40kw then I'd be down for that.

Though pin-pointing whether it is the cooler setup holding it back, or if I just got a odd turbo or whatever, will be the tricky part.

Just don't buy a "conventional" setup the same as you sold me...what a piece of shit..i fixed it, but what a piece of shit...lol

intercooler pipes didn't line up, not enough silicon, the intecooler pipe mount that goes at top of rockers was complety wrong..lol

cheers

darren

Edited by jet_r31

I'm not using a justjap kit, we made our own using a core with inlet/outlet on the one side.

But still, kinda don't want to spend any more money on it until I know for certian, this whole kando ordeal I've had ... I probably could of bought a 3076 or something with the cash wasted :(

I'll do some digging on the return flow cooler problems though while I'm at it, anyone else had problems with return flow intercoolers?

My thoughts exactly regarding what it "should" make. Interesting idea on the return flow cooler setup.

I like how the engine bay looks nearly stock (except the gate off the manifold). But if going the conventional intercooler setup to gain a extra 30-40kw then I'd be down for that.

Though pin-pointing whether it is the cooler setup holding it back, or if I just got a odd turbo or whatever, will be the tricky part.

Just don't buy a "conventional" setup the same as you sold me...what a piece of shit..i fixed it, but what a piece of shit...lol

intercooler pipes didn't line up, not enough silicon, the intecooler pipe mount that goes at top of rockers was complety wrong..lol

cheers

darren

I sold you a intercooler kit? was it brand new? if so you might want to talk to Darren Spencer (as that's who I got it from) about it, he had been importing them and assured they'd be a good fit.

Edited by Run-It-Hard

yep, new, ..worst china cooler kit i have ever seen, f**king pos...if you paid a workshop to fit

it would cost a f**king fortune , absolute mongoloid...not angry at you, just telling you, if you go conventional..do NOT buy another one..lol

i just put a 38mm turbodumb gate on my hypergear G3 turbo of exhaust housing, straight 90 right at the flange, in a stagea has to be close as it ends up to near to the strut tower for my liking, and i am not really sure making it a nice entry makes any difference, i would want to see the results backed to back to worry about piss farting around with it(for this car anyway) . I also woudn't be suprised

if using different brands of gates made a big difference aswell

cheers

darren

Edited by jet_r31

My brothers car had the same problem low power reading cause the return flow cooler setup on his car

He went thru numerous turbo setups all came up short of what they should put out and got his cams dialed in still similar results

End up just changing the cooler to a normal cheap 3inch inlet opposite sides and bang 20kw should have done it to start

Unigroup told him to change the cooler at the start but he didn't want to butcher the battery tray as it was a 180sx they did all the usual tests pressure drop,exhaust back pressure and comp test all came up good

yep ^

I think its more so the harsh turn that the air has to do in order to flow back the way it came which causes friction to the air's particles and super heats the charge after its already been through the cooler.

You then have a nice cap on how much power you can actually make, and theres no way you can test it as pressure drops and air leaks have little to do with it. The core Adam is describing is the worst, where it basically hits a brick wall and is forced back the other way.

I know the air particles business sounds airy fairy star wars but thats actually the way it works. air gets friction against itself and gets hotter.

dsc05822q.jpg


This is the kinda core I'm using lads. I get where your coming from Scott. I guess I need to decide whether I want the car to look stock and have average power, or put in a conventional cooler kit and gain the missing power I should have, if thats the problem.

Another thing Mick mentioned is that the turbo didn't want to make any more boost, maybe the intercooler is a restriction after all. I think I'll sort it out after Eastern creek next week.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I had 3 counts over the last couple of weeks once where i got stranded at a jdm paint yard booking in some work. 2nd time was moving the car into the drive way for the inspection and the 3rd was during the inspection for the co2 leak test. Fix: 1st, car off for a hour and half disconnected battery 10mins 4th try car started 2nd, 5th try started 3rd, countless time starting disconnected battery dude was under the hood listening to the starting sequence fuel pump ect.   
    • This. As for your options - I suggest remote mounting the Nissan sensor further away on a length of steel tube. That tube to have a loop in it to handle vibration, etc etc. You will need to either put a tee and a bleed fitting near the sensor, or crack the fitting at the sensor to bleed it full of oil when you first set it up, otherwise you won't get the line filled. But this is a small problem. Just needs enough access to get it done.
    • The time is always correct. Only the date is wrong. It currently thinks it is January 19. Tomorrow it will say it is January 20. The date and time are ( should be ! ) retrieved from the GPS navigation system.
    • Buy yourself a set of easy outs. See if they will get a good bite in and unthread it.   Very very lucky the whole sender didn't let go while on the track and cost you a motor!
    • Well GTSBoy, prepare yourself further. I did a track day with 1/2 a day prep on Friday, inpromptu. The good news is that I got home, and didn't drive the car into a wall. Everything seemed mostly okay. The car was even a little faster than it was last time. I also got to get some good datalog data too. I also noticed a tiny bit of knock which was (luckily?) recorded. All I know is the knock sensors got recalibrated.... and are notorious for false knock. So I don't know if they are too sensitive, not sensitive enough... or some other third option. But I reduced timing anyway. It wasn't every pull through the session either. Think along the lines of -1 degree of timing for say, three instances while at the top of 4th in a 20 minute all-hot-lap session. Unfortunately at the end of session 2... I noticed a little oil. I borrowed some jack stands and a jack and took a look under there, but as is often the case, messing around with it kinda half cleaned it up, it was not conclusive where it was coming from. I decided to give it another go and see how it was. The amount of oil was maybe one/two small drops. I did another 20 minute session and car went well, and I was just starting to get into it and not be terrified of driving on track. I pulled over and checked in the pits and saw this: This is where I called it, packed up and went home as I live ~20 min from the track with a VERY VERY CLOSE EYE on Oil Pressure on the way home. The volume wasn't much but you never know. I checked it today when I had my own space/tools/time to find out what was going on, wanted to clean it up, run the car and see if any of the fittings from around the oil filter were causing it. I have like.. 5 fittings there, so I suspected one was (hopefully?) the culprit. It became immediately apparent as soon as I looked around more closely. 795d266d-a034-4b8c-89c9-d83860f5d00a.mp4       This is the R34 GTT oil sender connected via an adapter to an oil cooler block I have installed which runs AN lines to my cooler (and back). There's also an oil temp sensor on top.  Just after that video, I attempted to unthread the sensor to see if it's loose/worn and it disintegrated in my hand. So yes. I am glad I noticed that oil because it would appear that complete and utter catastrophic engine failure was about 1 second of engine runtime away. I did try to drill the fitting out, and only succeeded in drilling the middle hole much larger and now there's a... smooth hole in there with what looks like a damn sleeve still incredibly tight in there. Not really sure how to proceed from here. My options: 1) Find someone who can remove the stuck fitting, and use a steel adapter so it won't fatigue? (Female BSPT for the R34 sender to 1/8NPT male - HARD to find). IF it isn't possible to remove - Buy a new block ($320) and have someone tap a new 1/8NPT in the top of it ($????) and hope the steel adapter works better. 2) Buy a new block and give up on the OEM pressure sender for the dash entirely, and use the supplied 1/8 NPT for the oil temp sender. Having the oil pressure read 0 in the dash with the warning lamp will give me a lot of anxiety driving around. I do have the actual GM sensor/sender working, but it needs OBD2 as a gauge. If I'm datalogging I don't actually have a readout of what the gauge is currently displaying. 3) Other? Find a new location for the OEM sender? Though I don't know of anywhere that will work. I also don't know if a steel adapter is actually functionally smart here. It's clearly leveraged itself through vibration of the motor and snapped in half. This doesn't seem like a setup a smart person would replicate given the weight of the OEM sender. Still pretty happy being lucky for once and seeing this at the absolute last moment before bye bye motor in a big way, even if an adapter is apparently 6 weeks+ delivery and I have no way to free the current stuck/potentially destroyed threads in the current oil block.
×
×
  • Create New...