Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Nice. After my playing with turbos I was just going to go with my one but went T67 just so I could baseline my results against others as I am still not sure about the performance of my new kinder surprise engine. I have said this before but this time will follow through. Need to get my car over to you for a few runs so I can understand whether its far off what a T67 setup can do,

I am making 325rwklws at 18psi falling to 16psi from about 5,500rpm onwards. After PI am going to make a few changes then will give it a few runs. Feels pretty healthy at 16psi and will be pretty easy on the engien and the track...also a little easier on the RB20 box

its all good, i know what its like, i have a similar list of things i never get done :P just let me know in advance and we will do whatever we can to help out.

That isn't flash! What setup, assuming stock SR20 with bolton internal unit? How much boost, was that maxed out? Looking at one for that kind of setup....

Sent from my GT-I9505 using Tapatalk 2

STD 1988 laurel RB20 @ 19psi wont make anymore no matter what @ 19psi... @ 23psi today it made 245kw but id prefer to leave it at 19 psi... was hoping for 250 @ 19psi but impossible. the HKS GT2535 had alot more topend... but laggier.

dont get me wrong area under the curve is great and it drives well, but car has full comp grip setup and 230-240kw is struggle town on new semis at drift days.

post-34927-0-73198900-1367748464_thumb.jpg

Ok so i just had my rb20 tuned with adjustable cam gears td05 18g. He is saying that the boost is spiking to 22 psi and then dropping to 18psi. I was wondering if its the gate that could be doing this. Its just making 190kw and thats just not enough for me.

I do have a cheaper vband gate on there swapping it to a turbosmart.

I have 750cc e85 injectors bad idea if i just go e85

Can anyone help

I've done a TD05-18G on an SR from Kando, which works well. Has done a couple of tens of thousand K's since install and countless beatings.

Holds 16psi well with a minor tapper.

The TD05H-18G gives reasonable down low with a sudden surge onto good power at the 3700 mark. Motor is an SRDE non VCT. VCT models would do better in terms of spool character.

Back to this - after much umming and ahhing the PE1420 from a certain S14 is going to be replaced with a Kando TD05-16G, T25 internally gated with the 3" intake housing and will fabricate to suit. Will be interesting to see how that performs :)

Back to this - after much umming and ahhing the PE1420 from a certain S14 is going to be replaced with a Kando TD05-16G, T25 internally gated with the 3" intake housing and will fabricate to suit. Will be interesting to see how that performs :)

A birdy told me that one of our SAU commoners saw 300+ at the hubs from his stock E9 turbo on 25psi (TD05HR-16G6 for those unawares).

I am also in talks with Stao to consider a high flow small inducer turbo for my own SR, the thought itself came from the 16G6 wheel which is a 50 trim 68mm wheel :) Thus I will be very keen to see your said 16G6 results also. Don't be shy with the boost though! It should be great.

  • Like 1

I know people who have done ~300kw @ hubs from stock EVO 9 turbos as well, as well as EVO3 16Gs with the bigger comp and turbine housings. We are going the non-EVO fit EVO3 spec 16G with 8cm housing so I'm picking we'll be able to make some decent power. The car only has a 2.5bar sensor so we can't get too carried away with boost, but I am sure we'll still get OK results :)

Sounds mickey mouse. On E85 the sensor shouldn't hold you back too much, safety margins will be in place from the fuel alone to let you push beyond the absolute MAP reading.

Looking forward to seeing what its got. Hopefully big spool and 300+ at the hubs.

Its a stock engine, with a stock gearbox, and a track car which had more power than braking/traction last time it was out so pushing the turbo to it's limit right at the start (we've already maxed out and popped a PE1420 lol) is not the highest priority :P It will make more than enough power on 18-20psi at this stage. When the VE head goes on things will get more interesting ;)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I don't know for sure, but I'd expect them all to be interchangeable given the diff end and hub end don't move/change between any C34 series. Often Nissan will change part numbers and the aftermarket follows those year ranges; but the original part number change doesn't mean other parts won't fit. The change could be a change in material, internal parts or even just supplier. For example, all the RB gearbox to engine bolts are no longer available and there is a new part number instead. The only change is they went from cadmium plated bolts to zinc plated due to the issues manufacturing with Cadmium. They look different but work the same.
    • One year is a bit concerning. Did you try contacting GSP? It says 5 year warranty on the box if I remember correctly. I'm also running their driveshafts on my S2 Stagea.   You could check the part numbers on Amayama for your year. Here's the link for my 1998 which gives the 39100-23U60 part number. Well, that and 39100-23U70. https://www.amayama.com/en/genuine-catalogs/epc/nissan-japan/stagea/wgnc34/6649-rb25det/trans/391 What does it say for yours?
    • I ordered a GSP Front R/H Axle from here - https://justjap.com/products/gsp-premium-front-driveshaft-r-h-nissan-r32-r33-r34-skyline-gtr-stagea-4wd#description It lasted around a year before one of the boots blew out. I'm lowered, but I have GKTech roll center adjusters. One year seems a little premature. I think I'm going to spend the extra money on an OEM cv axle this time. This website - https://tfaspeed.com/collections/nissan-stagea-wgnc34-x-four-parts/products/nissan-stagea-awc34-260rs-rb26-right-front-axle-drive-assembly Makes it sound like the readily available OEM CV axle will only fit 11.1999 Stagea and up (mine is a 2.1997 S1). The JustJap listing didn't mention any years or anything for the GSP axle. Amayama shows '11.1999' and up as well for that part number. As well as 'plastic boot type'. See attached picture. So I guess my question is, does that axle (39100-23U60) really only fit S2 Stagea? It's the front driver side. If it does, I'd love to buy that instead of rolling the dice on another GSP. I've found that OEM one cheaper here: https://www.partsfornissans.com/oem-parts/nismo-jdm-r32-r33-r34-skyline-gtr-r32-gts4-right-front-axle-3910023u60 and here https://www.nissanparts.cc/oem-parts/nismo-shaft-ft-drive-3910023u60 Just a little confused because the JapSpeed listing for the GSP front driver axle doesn't mention any specific years or anything and it fit my S1 Stagea fine. So will 39100-23U60 fit my S1 Stagea even though technically it says '11.1999' and up? What would have changed? Thanks.  
    • Thanks for the info. The only "Issue" I've had with the shifter is I always found the throw between 4th and 6th gear too close. I'm always worried to shift into 4th accidently and sending my motor to the moon. Adam LZ recently came out with a video and stated Serialnine revised their shifters to correct this and will change all the revised parts for 150$. Strangely enough, I contacted Serialnine right after and they denied it and said it's bullshit. I found that strange as he's a distributer. I'll keep this forum post updated on that saga.
    • Yep that is correct. It allows you to adjust the short throw range from what I can tell
×
×
  • Create New...