Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hows your $600 spring work Jethro?

Brrrrrppp! Lucky your shifts arn't too good anyway Jethro as you car might finish breaking in half!

Lets just say they work better then your dick does, by the sound of things....:whistling::nyaanyaa:

Edited by ironpaw

Hows your $600 spring work Jethro?

Brrrrrppp! Lucky your shifts arn't too good anyway Jethro as you car might finish breaking in half!

hahahahahahahahahahahahahahahaha f**k

Did the wire cut mod. It certainly builds up the revs a lot quicker while braking now but I can't say I noticed a huge difference. I do have some big wheels on though and no (or insignificant) power mods though...

Did the wire cut mod. It certainly builds up the revs a lot quicker while braking now but I can't say I noticed a huge difference. I do have some big wheels on though and no (or insignificant) power mods though...

You can't receive new messages...

Remind me what size did you go for with the wheels? They were 19x something right?

Have any problems with fitment?

You can't receive new messages...

Remind me what size did you go for with the wheels? They were 19x something right?

Have any problems with fitment?

Saw them tonight. Great fitment.

From memory they are 19x9.5 +20, quite a bit of low and some slight guard rolling was done too I believe - Jase can correct me if Im wrong :P

Did the wire cut mod. It certainly builds up the revs a lot quicker while braking now but I can't say I noticed a huge difference. I do have some big wheels on though and no (or insignificant) power mods though...

TBH its still a slug off the line. from standstill to 30ish kph the response sucks....unless you've got nismo ECU and/or revving the engine with the brakes on...

The rental Tiida my wife is driving (her car's in the shop again) seems to go harder then my Stag from standstill...

of course, I'm redlining the damn thing and I look at the speedo and its barely reaching 60 kph...LOL

Edited by ironpaw

Saw them tonight. Great fitment.

From memory they are 19x9.5 +20, quite a bit of low and some slight guard rolling was done too I believe - Jase can correct me if Im wrong :P

Yep as above.

Ultimately it just comes down to what height you want to run your car at. Chris aka spoolin12 runs the exact same wheel size (maybe a +22 instead of a +20, can't remember), with the same tyre (245/40 R19) and runs his car a bit higher. The rear wheels are flush (the rears were never really a concern, only fronts), and the fronts hang just slightly out of the guards.

Mine is that bit lower (still pretty high, I never bottom out except for on big spoon drains when any other car would, or during a hasty exit from the RAAF base the other day >_< ) so it's running that bit more camber. Front and rear they sit absolutely perfect. :thumbsup:

We rolled all four corners on my car - all it needs is the lip folded up. Now that mine is a bit lower now I don't even think that the rears needed any folding. Fairly confident I've never rubbed a guard, and IF I did it was under a fair amount of compression as I hit a dip in the road coming down one of the hills on Tregarthen Rd. Couldn't see any rubber missing from the tyre or left on the guard, so I'm not particularly concerned.

Long story short, they will fit, and look HOT. How well they fit comes down to heights. If you're going to run it higher (similar to Dale's heights in the BC BR thread, I'd probably go for a 19x9+20 or a 19x9.5+30). Really just comes down to preferences. PM me if you want to check them out one night.

TBH its still a slug off the line. from standstill to 30ish kph the response sucks....unless you've got nismo ECU and/or revving the engine with the brakes on...

The rental Tiida my wife is driving (her car's in the shop again) seems to go harder then my Stag from standstill...

of course, I'm redlining the damn thing and I look at the speedo and its barely reaching 60 kph...LOL

hahah yep. It's a weight thing. Doesn't help that the last car I owned was an Evo with a 5 puck clutch haha.

I like the look I yours, just curious about your camber to fit them flush with guards thats all. Mine is about 10mm higher than yours and is running -2.5deg front and -2deg rear. And already seeing inner tyre wear with the limited km's I've done.

I like the look I yours, just curious about your camber to fit them flush with guards thats all. Mine is about 10mm higher than yours and is running -2.5deg front and -2deg rear. And already seeing inner tyre wear with the limited km's I've done.

Whaaaat? Have you had a wheel alignment yet? I'll double check the print out tonight but I'm 99% confident that I'm running about -1.5deg both front and rear.

Whaaaat? Have you had a wheel alignment yet? I'll double check the print out tonight but I'm 99% confident that I'm running about -1.5deg both front and rear.

Well there's two columns on the report they gave me - "Diagnosis" and "Adjustment". My guess is that it's the Adjustment column (as follows)..

Front

Partial Toe: Left 0,8 Right 0,6

Toe: 1,4

Set back: -0°28

Camber: Left -1°52 Right -1°58

Camber dif.: +0°06

Caster: Left +6°58 Right +6°34

Caster dif.: +0°24

King pin: Left +7°22 Right +6°40

King pin dif.: +0°42

Included angle: Left +5°30 Right +4°42

Rear

Partial Toe: Left 1,0 Right 1,0

Toe: 2,2

Camber: Left -1°56 Right 1°58

Camber dif.: +0°02

I realised two things while typing that out.

1. I need to find my scanner.

2. You might have been referring to combined left and right camber on your car?

Just double checked mine. Not quite as bad as I thought but the rear is too much.

Front camber is L -2.09deg R -1.22deg

Rear camber is L -2.06deg R -2.01deg

The rear i would like at -1.00deg most and front I want to even it up at -1.22deg both sides. I installed offset bushes up from to help an waiting on the SPC offset bolts for the rear. Then I'll take it somewhere else and get it aligned again

Where did you get yours done?

Where did you get yours done?

Adelaide Radial Tyre at Holden Hill. They do a lot of motorsport cars and seem to have a very good reputation. They kind of dicked me around with times but the work was good and the price wasn't too high. :laugh:

Dealt with them on a business level before. I think I'll give them a miss and go back to Pedders at ridgehaven. Didn't have time to get to pedders when I had the m35 done and went to tyre power on north east road.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Even more fun, leave all the ADAS stuff plugged in, but in different locations, hopefully avoid any codes!   And honestly, all these new cars with their weird electronics. Pull all the electronics out Duncan, and just shove an aftermarket ECU and if needed a trans controller in, along with a PDM. Make it run basic but race car styled!
    • To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...