Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

good to hear scotty!!! please tell me your putting the standard engine cover back on :P

Yep, its all back on, looks stock other than the fuel reg and gauge hanging at the side. :)

Nice....enough coolers.

I think so, lol. I haven't hooked the controller up yet but I don't think I will need the thermo's in winter anyway.

I ran a Greddy cooler through the bandsaw, the core ended up around 220mm high from 300. I then bolted the end tanks to the intrusion bar. This is the same cooler I have been running for a while.

The lobster pipe is welded to the cooler as the bend was too sharp to use a silicone 90, plus my cooler sits very low compared to the HDI.

The hot side is all replaced up to the turbo, 2.5 inch stainless and a 60mm alloy bend into the cooler.

I ran a Greddy cooler through the bandsaw, the core ended up around 220mm high from 300. I then bolted the end tanks to the intrusion bar. This is the same cooler I have been running for a while.

The lobster pipe is welded to the cooler as the bend was too sharp to use a silicone 90, plus my cooler sits very low compared to the HDI.

The hot side is all replaced up to the turbo, 2.5 inch stainless and a 60mm alloy bend into the cooler.

And You call me a butcher.. Mr bandsaw

Can you suggest another 600x220 core I can use? lol.

It cost me $100, I wasn't too worried. :P

It's obviously not a restriction to power either. :whistling:

A third of the HDI core sits right behind the bumper Reo; getting almost no airflow anyway.

Exactly, and inside the top of the cooler (the part I cut off) isn't going to get much airflow as the compressed air is travelling too fast to bend up there.

Yep, I've actually seen people weld small air diverters into the end tanks; which direct air into the top & bottom of larger intercoolers.

Doesn't increase pressure drop, and increases cooler efficiency as you are using the full area to cool; rather than just filling up unused core area with pressurised air which is basically static.

It's obviously not a restriction to power either. :whistling:

A third of the HDI core sits right behind the bumper Reo; getting almost no airflow anyway.

Needs more N1 vents :ph34r:

Needs more N1 vents :ph34r:

Even with the vents; you've still got an amount of core that's basically blocked, but the vents and some decent holes in the reo would help. Doesn't do much for the integrity of the Reo; nor it's legality though.

With a smaller core; you'd have the opportunity to do as Scotty has done, and move the core forward, giving more room for trans/oil cooler cores & fans. You end up with very little spare real estate with the HDI core in place.

Just wondering if anyone has thought of a low, wide scoop attached to the top of the reo to direct air down through the top of the HDi cooler.

Wouldn't be difficult and wouldn't have to direct much air either.

Was just thinking maybe 5-10mm x 300mm of the air that passes through the lower part of the grill diverted behind the reo towards the top section of the cooler...

Just wondering if anyone has thought of a low, wide scoop attached to the top of the reo to direct air down through the top of the HDi cooler.

Wouldn't be difficult and wouldn't have to direct much air either.

Was just thinking maybe 5-10mm x 300mm of the air that passes through the lower part of the grill diverted behind the reo towards the top section of the cooler...

I'd suggest some actual testing of how much air flow is resticted by the REO is necessary before that gets done. I wouldnt have thought it'd be too difficult to put something in place to measure the airflow at the bottom and then move it to the top (behind the REO but 'on' the core), possibly even behind the core to see how much flows through it (because thats the important bit, right?) ?

Just wondering if anyone has thought of a low, wide scoop attached to the top of the reo to direct air down through the top of the HDi cooler.

Wouldn't be difficult and wouldn't have to direct much air either.

Was just thinking maybe 5-10mm x 300mm of the air that passes through the lower part of the grill diverted behind the reo towards the top section of the cooler...

You're referring to a wider version of the OEM intercooler scoop right?

The cooler sits so close to the back of the reo I'm not sure how effective it would be.

Wouldn't be difficult to make though. It would all depend on the positioning of any ancillary coolers that are fitted in that area.

You're referring to a wider version of the OEM intercooler scoop right?

The cooler sits so close to the back of the reo I'm not sure how effective it would be.

Wouldn't be difficult to make though. It would all depend on the positioning of any ancillary coolers that are fitted in that area.

Its been so long since I have seen mine, but I agree that would improve things. I think you would only be pressurising the space, not flowing much extra air through it. Plus the radiator needs clean air too.

A question to those with M35's, Have you left the under body plastic beneath the engine or removed it?

Any problems with removing it indefinetly? i find it such a pain to remove any time i want to have a poke around down there.

Edited by Ross

I have left it Ross. No problems removing it, but cooling may suffer, as you want to duct as much air as possible through the radiator, and not bouncing off. Also sticks, rocks, and other grime may well get up there. I really don't want a rock going up into some of the stuff I got in there.

Left it in. Would only remove it if I replaced it with a custom item that allowed oil changes without removing the whole damn thing.

That being said, everything should have a look for leaks/damage/etc at when servicing anyway...

Changed my fuel filter. That was fun times.... Re-leveled my ATF, because I thought I had over filled it a little, and Re-installed my chassis brace without spacers.

Going to leave cleaning it till tomorrow for the Stagea Meet! Needs a good scrub.

A question to those with M35's, Have you left the under body plastic beneath the engine or removed it?

Any problems with removing it indefinetly? i find it such a pain to remove any time i want to have a poke around down there.

Mine didn't come with the larger plastic panel (so oil changes are very easy) & haven't noticed any issues but would probably leave it if I had the option.

There is another smaller plastic cover further back that you will want to leave on. I removed mine & got a vibration at freeway speeds - felt like a tyre out of balance. With cover back on the vibration was gone, so there must be some aero benefit in having it there.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yes. You will need to get the original boost sensor and wire it in. That is.... if you plan to use a stock ECU - even a Nistuned ECU. The Nissan ECU will not operate correctly without it connected. And yes, it will do annoying stuff like you are experiencing. You will almost certainly be better off with some aftermarket ECU, than trying to hunt down rare sensors.
    • Ok so ABS/TCS is "not" the problem. Yeah i know now about the ABS with Nistune(i told that to the Nistune guy) but iam not 100% why or why i dont have ABS. ABS cube is in the engine (always has been) but i had braked couple of times rly hard and brakes just locked and scream. Does all Skylines have ABS cube? That boost sensor https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/367633-wtb-r34-gtt-turbo-pressure-sensor-pics-inside/ Is this it? I need to ask but i have a picture of engine bay and i do not see that (100% is not in that place) If i do not have this the car can do what mine is?(cutting around 4000 rpm) Here is the pic of my engine bay(only one i have) BUT i think i dont have that cuz loom was used from my RB20DE NEO and i know (obviously) that it does not have boost control or any wire to that...) so maybe that is the problem? (i dont know for 100% if that car where the engine is from had that)...but i dont have the loom from that
    • I'm with you here. It's either loom has an issue, OR, injectors are not functioning properly. It could even be they're just constantly dribbling, hence the wet, but not firing.
    • Depending on how long the car sat it is very possible for injectors to be stuck open or closed, I'd get them cleaned and flow tested. Other than that, obviously when the loom changes and the car doesn't start any more....the loom is suspect so some tracing / comparing may be required
    • Harness is for a s1 Rb25det, and it is engine and lower harness.  the old harness had broken off plugs and was in very rough condition/exposed wires and splices etc. it is not able to be put back on the car, I could visually inspect to see if they had rewired any pins on the ecu plug. The fuel pump definitly isn’t turning off it’s an external pump and very loud you can hear it. Will look at the other harness tonight, am also going to pull the fuel rail and watch the injectors spray, will update here with what I find. Pretty sure at this point it has to be something to do with injectors because car will fire up on starting fluid and cas is clicking the Injectors. Fuel pressure is steady 43psi 
×
×
  • Create New...