Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Why would you put it in the stock location though, doesn't it need to be 20 inches down the pipe like the innovative ones?

I've got an Innovate Scott, so its going 20 inches down and I'm leaving the stock O2 alone.

So why do you need to plumb the wideband into the fcon if the narrowband is wired in also? Do you want to log the data?

I just drilled a hole big enough for the sensor to slide through in the tunnel and stuck a bung there, that way I didn't have to drag the wire through the engine bay, and also the electronics are nicely tucked under the carpet instead of in the hot engine bay. The innovative units are prone to overheating and failing.

Dale- I love it when you talk dirty to me. Purge, oxidised, argon.... makes me feel more manly saying stuff like that!

Good to hear its back on the road. What boost? I take it same actuator? so 15/16 psi? The response sounds quite nice, and the best you could get to stock by the sounds of it.

Lol! Nipple, ballcock, flange; it's all there... :woot:

Yeah, same actuator; just shimmed it out to get a little more preload. Not the best solution, but it'll do until I can get a Scotty special. I know it's not creeping until 7 psi, but I'm sure there's a gain in response to be had there.

I don't have an external boost gauge, so I don't know exactly what I'm dealing with ATM.

Consider yourself quoted Sir

Lol, yeah; had that coming.... :rolleyes:

If only.

What line are you referring to here Dale? Is it to replace the famous banjo - banjo oil feed line? If so I need some details.

Looking forward to more driving impressions after you've had time behind the wheel (& don't call me up & go "broom broom". lol).

Happy b'day to the young fella too :)

Leon, yes; it is the block to turbo oil feed line. I'll PM you tonight; unless anyone else is particularly interested in detail.

Thanks for the birthday wishes; he was pretty stoked to see the car back on the road too.

I drove it again last night after correcting my metered boost leak. Lets just say it a little different... :banana:

Last night's ambient temp was only 5deg, so that may skew my results a little; but here it is.

I now have 5-7psi at around 2400-2500rpm, all in (lets call it 14-15 psi) at 2800-2900rpm.

Stalled against the brakes it will slowly build to 2500rpm in approx 2-3 sec, then race to 3200rpm as full boost arrives in around a second (ish); release brake, jumps to 3900-4000rpm, spins all four very briefly and it simply f**ks the f**k off. :blink:

I haven't even hand timed yet but there's no question that it is significantly quicker than before.

It will trigger the 100% duty cycle alarm in the Informeter just before the 6500rpm shift point, and it starts all over again.

It doesn't hit the AFM cut, which I'm extremely pleased about; even though it is possibly costing me some flow.

I understand the principle of using a larger intake effectively as additonal plenum area, but what I have now is a pretty nice solution, and is almost completely undetectable to even a educated set of eyes.

I will have to change the way I drive, (with regard to gear selection) but not very much in comparison to the extra performance. I can definitely see how the 3.55 ratio diffs would help here.

Eastern Creek drags in 2 weeks anyone? :whistling:

Edited by Daleo

So why do you need to plumb the wideband into the fcon if the narrowband is wired in also? Do you want to log the data?

Wideband is needed to be plugged into the Fcon for A/F feedback so the V-pro can hit the specified A/F ratios

So what happens when the wideband goes faulty and reads full rich? That's the issue with electronics, they are never reliable enough to trust a tune on their operation imo.

I'm not running the same Innovate unit as you Scotty, i'm running the newer MTX-L, which has the electronics in the gauge, so I'll be able to view the display and correct if necessary.

The funny thing is by the same token the ECU could get corrupted anyway. Any electronics can fail in a standard car, so I don't see much additional risk.

Widebands are not the most stable of gauges, I hope you don't find that out the hard way. The only way I would rely on it for ecu self tuning is to run a pair of sensors with some sort of controller that cut off the feedback if there was a discrepancy between them.

As a gauge for piece of mind, quick road tunes and to back up the dyno wideband data they are great.

Valid point Scott. I would have thought the F-con would have some kind of detection for large variations like that?

I'll bring it up with the tuner. I want it in anyway for the peace of mind and so I can get the fuel pressures right with the FPR. If the tuner thinks it'll be ok, I'll feed it into the F-con. If not, I'll still have the gauge.

After 25 years fixing electronics I have learned it nearly always lets you down, especially in extreme conditions ie. automotive. I try to put as little faith in it as I can get away with. Mechanical solutions are where it's at as long as it doesn't complicate things too much.

After 25 years fixing electronics I have learned it nearly always lets you down, especially in extreme conditions ie. automotive. I try to put as little faith in it as I can get away with. Mechanical solutions are where it's at as long as it doesn't complicate things too much.

But didn't you put your faith in Emanage for a while & now Fcon? Where does that fit in with your electronics theory?

To a certain extent I'm with you, but our cars aren't carby fed pushrod dinosaurs -they're chock full of electronics already. I guess you are talking about using the highest quality electronics...?

When you don't have a choice... Minimising the chance the electronics will fail by padding around the Fcon and keeping the o2 controller in the car will help, even military spec chips have issues over 50 degrees. I need those components but more and more the electronic systems in the car have been whittled away. All the damn sensors and switches nearing the end of their life span, most of which will put the engine in limp mode. I wish I could drop a carby on it. :)

The best mod so far was definitely the map sensor, ditching the afm. It has already saved me being stranded on a few occasions. Manualising the gearbox may be the next endeavour...

Couple of members have requested for the smaller high flow profile for the M35 Stagea working with factory ECU and fuel setup. I've taken few photos and posted below. Compare to the larger profile, this chra has smaller turbine and comp wheel, also run fnt turbine setup, it is expected to produce some where around the 230rwkws mark with supporting mods, should have stock alike response with a much strong top end.

front.jpg

rear.jpg

The whole chra is about 15mm shorter then OEM chra, All lines fits fine (oil line needs little bending), the drain pipe flange needs to be slightly skimmed.

Couple of members have requested for the smaller high flow profile for the M35 Stagea working with factory ECU and fuel setup. I've taken few photos and posted below. Compare to the larger profile, this chra has smaller turbine and comp wheel, also run fnt turbine setup, it is expected to produce some where around the 230rwkws mark with supporting mods, should have stock alike response with a much strong top end.

front.jpg

rear.jpg

The whole chra is about 15mm shorter then OEM chra, All lines fits fine (oil line needs little bending), the drain pipe flange needs to be slightly skimmed.

Got a stock m35 for test ..... Lol free new turbo! Yay!

Great job Stao, I think you will sell a few of these.

So the rear is only a few MM bigger but the compressor looks to be around 6MM bigger? Should flow well and more responsive than the Sierra stage one's..

Got rid of the old paper job and dropped in a K&N filter yesterday. I'm probably imagining it but it feels a little bit more responsive on the pedal. :woot:

Edited by NickM91

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Forgot to include this but this is the mid section of my steering rack that looks like it has a thread/can be turned with that notch mentioned in the post:
    • Hey everyone, Wanted to pick some brains about this issue I'm having with rebuilding my 33 rack (PN is 49001-19U05). All of the tutorials/videos I've seen online are either R34 or S Chassis racks which seem to be pretty straightforward to disassemble but this process doesnt carry over to my rack. Few of the key differences that I've noted The pinion shaft on the other racks bolt on with 3 torx bolts: Whereas my rack bolts on with 2 allen head bolts: These changes are pretty inconsequential but the main difference is how you pull the actual rack out of the housing. The other skyline/s chassis racks can be taken out by tapping the rack out of the body with a socket and it just slides right out. I'm unable to do that with my rack because there's a hard stop at the end that doesn't let the seal/shaft be tapped out. Can also see a difference in the other end of the rack where mine has a notch that looks like you're able to use a big wrench to unthread 2 halves of the rack whereas the other racks are just kinda set in with a punch. My rack: Other racks: TLDR; Wanted to know if anyone has rebuilt this specific model of steering rack for the R33 and if there were any steps to getting it done easier or if I should just give this to a professional to get done. Sorry if this post is a bit messy, first one I've done.
    • I would just put EBC back on the "I would not use their stuff" pile and move on.
    • Can I suggest you try EBC directly again and link them to as many competitor catalogues as you can to show their listing is incorrect, eg https://dba.com.au/product/front-4000-series-hd-brake-rotor-dba42304/ If you have access to an R33 GTST VIN and your VIN, you could also use a Nissan Parts lookup like Amayama to show them the part number is different between 33 GTST and 34 GTT which may get their attention
    • So i got reply from EBC and they just this site where you can clearly see those 296mm fronts on R34 GTT. I send them photos and "quotes" that 296mm are not for 34 GTT and they are too small. But it will be very hard to return them cuz nobody here knows 100% and they just copy those EBC catalogue :-D https://ebcbrakesdirect.com/automotive/nissan/skyline-r34
×
×
  • Create New...