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What Have You Done To Your Stagea Lately?

Hanso

By Hanso,
in Four Door Family & Wagoneers

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iamhe77 Grand Master

iamhe77

Posted
Posted

Can the HKS take over O2 correction, using the factory fuel target table (because FCon won't let you enter a target table), with either a wideband or narrowband feedback?

You can set target AFR's with the Fcon and use the wideband input/parameters for O2 correction.

Won't stop the too rich/lean CELs though as the ecu will still receive the signal and crack the sads (not that it will affect the Fcon tune).

Ryan, if the light bothers you that much, remove the bulb and just buy a Cipher cable to check for CELs periodically.

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chuckie
chuckie

FITTED 2 NEW BOLTS TO MY Brakes is this a MOD i CAN POST or do i need aprovall from NM#% But i may need to ask if it`s ok to POST hope to POST MORE SOON

chuckie
chuckie

Thanks for all your HELP , I guess owning a NM#% is some sort of gift , i guess with all your imput i will be happy to have a NM#% in the family & may be you will be more helpfully then, but a

chuckie
chuckie

LOOKING AT BUYING NM#% CAN I GET SOME POINTERS ON WHATS SHIT & WHATS NOT got some new bolts for Calipers

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scotty nm35 Grand Master

scotty nm35

Posted
Posted

Ryan, if the light bothers you that much, remove the bulb and just buy a Cipher cable to check for CELs periodically.

You want to see 'crack the shits' when he cuts the CEL signal wire. lol.

Take the bulb out and bypass it with a resistor. ;)

PN-Mad Grand Master

PN-Mad

Posted
Posted

Because simply, its the best way for it to run in low load/idle areas of the map. Hot day, cold day, freezing - doesn't matter. Altitude - doesn't matter. It just corrects.

I would like to see what O2 functions the FCon has, and if they are useful. Thats all.

scotty nm35 Grand Master

scotty nm35

Posted
Posted

Meh, some scattered self tuning functions from what I have seen, not worth going down that route imo, it's mainly for dumb arse tuners to hack a tune out with before fine tuning from there.

Mine has bugger all dramas with different temps, as the tuner has set up the coolant temp and intake temp corrections fairly well. It is running a bit rich atm but that's due to me being a compulsive modifier, not the tune. ;)

Once set it shouldn't need o2 correction. I haven't run it for years.

bigkevracer Grand Master

bigkevracer

Posted
Posted

You can do correction based on wideband in the fcon, might be worth trying just to see if it clears the code.

I don't see the issue Scotty. So you trust a 10 year old O2 sensor but not a brand new wideband?

Commsman Veteran

Commsman

Posted
Posted

And I thought F-Con was supposed to be the bees-knees with no CEL issues...(thought I read that somewhere a year ago).

I hope you get it where you are comfortable driving it around Ryan, CEL or not. Persistance is the key; and if you do find a good solution (with no CEL) you will be a forum hero ;) .

bigkevracer Grand Master

bigkevracer

Posted
Posted

You can set target AFR's with the Fcon and use the wideband input/parameters for O2 correction.

Won't stop the too rich/lean CELs though as the ecu will still receive the signal and crack the sads (not that it will affect the Fcon tune).

I wonder how close the O2 correction on the F-con would be to stock ECU correction? As in, would the ECU see something good/close enough?

Ryan, if the light bothers you that much, remove the bulb and just buy a Cipher cable to check for CELs periodically.

I'll probably end up with the Cipher cable in the new year anyway, easier to sort out than a code reader and more versatile. I just don't want the light firing and masking another issue.

Because simply, its the best way for it to run in low load/idle areas of the map. Hot day, cold day, freezing - doesn't matter. Altitude - doesn't matter. It just corrects.

I would like to see what O2 functions the FCon has, and if they are useful. Thats all.

Target AFR seems to be useful, and easy to implement (which I think was what Scotty was talking about in a backhanded kind of way :P). Whether it'll replicate the stock ECU in the same kind of way I don't know, but I doubt it.

And I thought F-Con was supposed to be the bees-knees with no CEL issues...(thought I read that somewhere a year ago).

I hope you get it where you are comfortable driving it around Ryan, CEL or not. Persistance is the key; and if you do find a good solution (with no CEL) you will be a forum hero ;) .

Yeah its pretty good Leon, more research to clear random codes is required, but other than that it's good. 8k rev limit is a bit high for my liking, but other than that it's got a fair bit of shove. Be interesting to see what it does on the dyno with Scotty's upgraded spring, holding 15PSI not 7...

scotty nm35 Grand Master

scotty nm35

Posted
Posted

I wonder how close the O2 correction on the F-con would be to stock ECU correction? As in, would the ECU see something good/close enough?

Target AFR seems to be useful, and easy to implement (which I think was what Scotty was talking about in a backhanded kind of way :P). Whether it'll replicate the stock ECU in the same kind of way I don't know, but I doubt it.

I think you need to research more about o2 feedback.

The widebands play up constantly and require resetting, recal and the sensors require regular replacement. They are in no way reliable enough to use for auto afr targeting, unless you have some way of proving the sensor is accurate, like running twin sensors through some comparison circuit. It's not something a tuner would like to setup either. (hopefully you already know that from speaking to your tuner.)

The Fcon would try and hold a set AFR, as in 14.7 or whatever you target it to hold. The factory ecu wants to see 14 then 15.5, cycling every few seconds. They are in no way similar. Geddit?

bigkevracer Grand Master

bigkevracer

Posted
Posted

Geddit. I still think there must be some way of looping the signal though...

In other news, actuator turned up today Scott, thanks! Will try and fit tonight.

bigkevracer Grand Master

bigkevracer

Posted
Posted

Mmm it needs to go in to stop the boost spiking. Probably better to just put it in and drive it carefully than let the turbo spike to 20PSI for another couple of weeks. Especially when I'm on holidays and will be using it.

Commsman Veteran

Commsman

Posted
Posted

Yeah its pretty good Leon, more research to clear random codes is required, but other than that it's good. 8k rev limit is a bit high for my liking, but other than that it's got a fair bit of shove. Be interesting to see what it does on the dyno with Scotty's upgraded spring, holding 15PSI not 7...

8K a bit high? (understatement much, lol). Is that an easy figure for your tuner to set?

I would think you'd have about 2,500 rpm of 'not a lot happening' with the standard turbo.

Commsman Veteran

Commsman

Posted
Posted

8k is the lowest rev limit on an Fcon V-Pro

:O Ok-doky then. I guess that's why it's called the 'Pro'.

Is 8K safe for an unopened VQ25? Or should I say, safe for an extended operating life?

scotty nm35 Grand Master

scotty nm35

Posted
Posted

I still hit the limiter thanks to the auto not shifting at wot, soft limit is set at 7k, hard limit is 7,600. I don't know what Cam is on about... possibly a hard cut backup?

WAGON_BOY Mentor

WAGON_BOY

Posted
Posted

8k is the lowest rev limit on an Fcon V-Pro

mine shifts at 7200rpm consistantly dont hit the cut....... not sure what the cut is though might have to try that LOL

S T A R 3 3 Veteran

S T A R 3 3

Posted
Posted

Installed the rear sway bar and raised the front by 75mm (thank god.. lol)

Ran out of time to do the front sway bar links, so I'll ask the shop to do whilst they push in the bushes tomorrow.

bigkevracer Grand Master

bigkevracer

Posted
Posted

Got home late thanks to the wonderful folks at Adelaide Metro but still managed to remove the top half of the intake, jack the car up and onto jack stands, remove the front wheels so I can put the good ones back on and drain all the coolant out.

Hopefully I'll get home early tomorrow and get the radiator out. Think there should be more room for the thermostat once the radiator and clutch fan are out.

scotty nm35 Grand Master

scotty nm35

Posted
Posted

The coolant thermostat? It's just three bolts, no need to remove the radiator or fan.

With the o2 issue, I seem to remember Jaycar having a kit to combat this very problem. Perhaps you could look into it?

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