Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Two blokes, workin 9-5:30pm doing a full paint correction. APC, foam lanced, ironX, clay bar, polished for 4 hrs with ROs, sealant, wax. Knackered.

Not leaving the garage with it before the stagea cruise!

Two blokes, workin 9-5:30pm doing a full paint correction. APC, foam lanced, ironX, clay bar, polished for 4 hrs with ROs, sealant, wax. Knackered.

Not leaving the garage with it before the stagea cruise!

Who did it Alex?

A workmate of mine.

He does a bit on the side for some cash. Very professional and very OCD. Would recommend. However if it catches the nail, it isn't coming out, so if your thinking those key marks, they could be reduced I guess, but not removed.

He's in the bexley area. Have a look at his handy work on Sunday :)

A workmate of mine.

He does a bit on the side for some cash. Very professional and very OCD. Would recommend. However if it catches the nail, it isn't coming out, so if your thinking those key marks, they could be reduced I guess, but not removed.

He's in the bexley area. Have a look at his handy work on Sunday :)

Nah, I'm not worried about the key marks right now; no amount of buffing will get clear back on the exposed black base. The damaged panels will have to be sprayed which is on the list currently. I hate vandals...

Looking forward to seeing the results mate!

Took my car to barbagello, first time on a proper track to open her up. On the last run got my courage up and pushed it harded and passed a s13 easy and reeled in on a 345hp chaser. Hit speed cut on the back straight :( and got plenty of fade from the brembos !!

Next up is install sld dyno and dyno run..

Very happy with the car atm!!

Took mine got its first proper drive since the build: absolutely fantastic! Only downer was the plague of Lycra lovers, and the rubber messing up my front and rear guards ;) .

Almost crossbreed it with a Toyota 86 today when some complete muppet in a white Toyota 86 decided to speed up and try to turn right from the left lane of the roundabout I was going straight through. Really clever: was within 2 inches of having his car as a bonnet ornament...

very nice suction pipe!

P.S. Without the fan shroud I suggest you do some shielding in front of the pod to get rid of the hot air.....remember the heat sensor is in our AFM and it will affect your power through traffic.

  • Like 1

Qfm hpx. I think my next upgrade is slotted rotors maybe some better street pads and some new fluid :)

Remsa or ar1m might help you out, hpx are pretty tame

A1RM's still fade. Better off keeping the HPX for road duty and running some race pads for the track.

I got project mu track pads with the brembos but didnt put them on obviously.

Whats the view on skimming the rotor if i change from the track to street pad and vice versa?

Replaced shocks all round, and bled the callipers since i was there.

Also - HPX are hopeless for track work. I know two people who tried tand both were miserable failures.... A1RMs are a whole different story, but i would expect they would be tough on rotors if you used them for street. Cold bite is not great either, so agree that pads are the #1 thing to swap in and out for track days (or maybe #2 after tyres).

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • There's plenty of OEM steering arms that are bolted on. Not in the same fashion/orientation as that one, to be sure, but still. Examples of what I'm thinking of would use holes like the ones that have the downward facing studs on the GTR uprights (down the bottom end, under the driveshaft opening, near the lower balljoint) and bolt a steering arm on using only 2 bolts that would be somewhat similarly in shear as these you're complainig about. I reckon old Holdens did that, and I've never seen a broken one of those.
    • Let's be honest, most of the people designing parts like the above, aren't engineers. Sometimes they come from disciplines that gives them more qualitative feel for design than quantitive, however, plenty of them have just picked up a license to Fusion and started making things. And that's the honest part about the majority of these guys making parts like that, they don't have huge R&D teams and heaps of time or experience working out the numbers on it. Shit, most smaller teams that do have real engineers still roll with "yeah, it should be okay, and does the job, let's make them and just see"...   The smaller guys like KiwiCNC, aren't the likes of Bosch etc with proper engineering procedures, and oversights, and sign off. As such, it's why they can produce a product to market a lot quicker, but it always comes back to, question it all.   I'm still not a fan of that bolt on piece. Why not just machine it all in one go? With the right design it's possible. The only reason I can see is if they want different heights/length for the tie rod to bolt to. And if they have the cncs themselves,they can easily offer that exact feature, and just machine it all in one go. 
    • The roof is wrapped
    • This is how I last did this when I had a master cylinder fail and introduce air. Bleed before first stage, go oh shit through first stage, bleed at end of first stage, go oh shit through second stage, bleed at end of second stage, go oh shit through third stage, bleed at end of third stage, go oh shit through fourth stage, bleed at lunch, go oh shit through fifth stage, bleed at end of fifth stage, go oh shit through sixth stage....you get the idea. It did come good in the end. My Topdon scan tool can bleed the HY51 and V37, but it doesn't have a consult connector and I don't have an R34 to check that on. I think finding a tool in an Australian workshop other than Nissan that can bleed an R34 will be like rocking horse poo. No way will a generic ODB tool do it.
    • Hmm. Perhaps not the same engineers. The OE Nissan engineers did not forsee a future with spacers pushing the tie rod force application further away from the steering arm and creating that torque. The failures are happening since the advent of those things, and some 30 years after they designed the uprights. So latent casting deficiencies, 30+ yrs of wear and tear, + unexpected usage could quite easily = unforeseen failure. Meanwhile, the engineers who are designing the billet CNC or fabricated uprights are also designing, for the same parts makers, the correction tie rod ends. And they are designing and building these with motorsport (or, at the very least, the meth addled antics of drifters) in mind. So I would hope (in fact, I would expect) that their design work included the offset of that steering force. Doesn't mean that it is not totally valid to ask the question of them, before committing $$.
×
×
  • Create New...