Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Ok sweet what's his number Josh and what's parts is he making you out if interest?

+61 414 879 711 currently he is making me a custom idle control unit for my cable throttle setup

So i've had a chance to drive the M35 for a few days since getting it back from tuning.

My main observations it that i'm already driving a lot heavier footed when i want the car to come on boost due to the lagg but i'm really enjoying it. The car sounds amazing as it hits boost with the increased air flow however i really need to do something about the exhaust. 3 inch stainless with front / dump and Apixi N1 cannon is simply way too loud for me. Not sure what i'll do but a bit of forum trolling will hopefully find an answer.

Overall i'm very happy. Big thanks for those that helped along the way.

All that's left once i sort the exhaust is doing something about the front bumper (this stocky one with the parking aid has to go).

  • Like 1

I find my varex is too loud for me at times as well even with an xforce resonator so im looking at switching to a HKS silent hi power muffler to try and get the system quieter. It will eliminate the lower pressure in cabin sounds. I also find that the exhaust can have different db notes from bearable to unbearable at times.

Had a minor o-ring issue with the access to the fuel tank and the M35 was leaking fuel after a filled the tank up but all is fixed and it's perfect once again.

I got the muffler replaced today with something a little more appropriate sound-wise. Still 3 inch straight through but more factory looking. Much quieter than the Apexi N1 and the drone is much more tolerable :laugh:

  • Like 1

looks good mate! Can I ask where you got those LEDs from?great fit

Just some cob leds off ebay you can get wireless (RF) ones that can chage colour lol. http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_odkw=cob+led&_from=R40&_osacat=0&_from=R40&_trksid=p2045573.m570.l1313.TR0.TRC0.H0.Xcob+led+halos&_nkw=cob+led+halos&_sacat=0

Cool man what diameters did you use

60mm for the park 70mm for the indicator and 165 for the main lights if i was to do it again i would use a yellow/white 2 colour ring for the indicator signal led (has 2 positive wires and one negative) so it it will change colour depending on what cable you put power on, so it would flash yellow with the turn signal. other than that you probs just need a dremel to cut into the the plastic silver surround inside the headlight. headlights come apart just like normal. oven,heat gun or blow torch to warm up the silicone like rubber stuff then pull apart.Also depending on what look you're after you can get different types of leds just make sure its a cob led ring if u want a more solid ring of light!

  • Like 2

60mm for the park 70mm for the indicator and 165 for the main lights if i was to do it again i would use a yellow/white 2 colour ring for the indicator signal led (has 2 positive wires and one negative) so it it will change colour depending on what cable you put power on, so it would flash yellow with the turn signal. other than that you probs just need a dremel to cut into the the plastic silver surround inside the headlight. headlights come apart just like normal. oven,heat gun or blow torch to warm up the silicone like rubber stuff then pull apart.Also depending on what look you're after you can get different types of leds just make sure its a cob led ring if u want a more solid ring of light!

fantastic cheers mate ill look into that

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • To back this up, I'm always looking on the outside, seeing the level, and then opening it up anyway, as I'm worried the level I've looked at, is more so a scunge line. Then you end up dipping your damn finger in it too depending on the type of tank you're looking at just to make sure I'm not going insane.   PS, Mark, polish up the none moroso one a bit and then give it a clear coat. The Moroso one looks to be way shiner (not mirror polished, just shinier) and it'll still look weird with the two different alloys beside each other. Either that, or Id probably paint them a flat black...
    • Good old Orange Park hey... 😛   f**k I miss that race track
    • lo, it was a death trap. Good times. Got any Fatz Drift Day DVDs still available?
    • Yes, overthinking. Many PS reserviors are completely opaque. Our Skyline ones, for example. Have to remove lid, peak inside, swirl the dipstick, try to remember how to read it, etc etc. Normal. Radiator overflows are often sufficiently opaque and scunged up that you can't see the true level inside anyway, and have to open and have a peak. Besides which, I replaced the (massively expensive, even back then) plastic overflow in my Alfa GTV, back in the '90s with a stainless one that I had a good fabricator make up to be dimensionally same-same, that looks remarkably similar to the Bogan's Moroso one above, and I never suffered any particular paranoia that I didn't know how much coolant was in it.
    • Looks great, but I'm always concerned that it makes it difficult to see what level the fluids are at. Am I overthinking this?
×
×
  • Create New...