Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

After 9 years of Stagea ownership I am out. The Stagea has been passed on to safe hands and should give the new owner years of fun. I'm sure I will be around but thanks to all here who have helped me over the years and to a few who may not frequent the forums any more but I still keep in contact with.

  • Like 1

After 9 years of Stagea ownership I am out. The Stagea has been passed on to safe hands and should give the new owner years of fun. I'm sure I will be around but thanks to all here who have helped me over the years and to a few who may not frequent the forums any more but I still keep in contact with.

Thanks Wolverine, for all the help you have returned to us. :)

What have you 'upgraded' to? I just can't find much worth replacing my Stagea with.

  • Like 2

Thanks Scotty, I bought the old man's 2012 335i which is a good car to steer. The refinement, the improved fuel economy, the interior is a bit more up to date but the car is less fun than my old R33 and the Stagea.

Finally got the Turbosmart Kompact BOV fitted, got a K & N panel and replaced the hid bulbs, which one has already failed, Yay for ebay!

Why a K+N? Don't say I didn't warn you. I only have a couple of AFM's left...

Rotors and pads arrived yesterday... R35 GTR seats should be fine to pick up next week.

My aero bar should hopefully arrive within the next 2 weeks :)

Nice one, pics please. :)

Forgot to mention, I had the AFM replaced at the same time as well :no:

Honestly didn't realise that K&Ns were an issue, for all the poking around ive done on here id not seen it mentioned.

Have noticed that at full tilt in 1st & 2nd, the last 3 - 400 rpm before redline, it drops off and then theres a slight backfire when it clicks into the next gear. It seems more noticeable now that the bov makes more noise too.

Nice one, pics please. :)

Once all the bits are in the spare room i'll get cracking and take some pics :)

Looking forward to getting these things done so i can move onto the next stage. I have a few blokes in Adelaide working on some options for me :)

After 9 years of Stagea ownership I am out. The Stagea has been passed on to safe hands and should give the new owner years of fun. I'm sure I will be around but thanks to all here who have helped me over the years and to a few who may not frequent the forums any more but I still keep in contact with.

Massive thanks to you too, Andrew, for helping with the original "Secret Squirrel Trick" for us PowerFC owners!

  • Like 1
  • 2 weeks later...

Rotors and pads added today.

R35 GTR seats are still stuck in the container which they travelled from Japan in but hopefully they will be good to pick up this coming weekend.

Also got a bloke to give the M35 a once over to find possible issues.... Looks like i have some forum searching to do re: cv boots / caster rod bushes and radiator (last one will be easy)

Cheers

post-104324-0-99645600-1428386132_thumb.jpg

Rotors and pads added today.

R35 GTR seats are still stuck in the container which they travelled from Japan in but hopefully they will be good to pick up this coming weekend.

Also got a bloke to give the M35 a once over to find possible issues.... Looks like i have some forum searching to do re: cv boots / caster rod bushes and radiator (last one will be easy)

Cheers

If you are planning on modding it spend a little extra and get the moshimoto radiator. Twice as thick, twice as awesome. It is on my list of things to do this year.

I'll take a look Josh cheers,

Yes at this stage further mods will be on the way.. not sure how much more power it will make from the 240-odd kw's it's making now but i do see more in the future :yes:

Edited by Beregron
  • Like 1

post-137188-0-71712300-1428802621_thumb.jpgpost-137188-0-78468500-1428802650_thumb.jpg

Threw on the cold air kit today, idle seemed to go back to 650/750 rpm compared to the factory which I could never get to stay at. ?

And had a play around with the boost T, steady 14psi now bit more of a joy to drive ?

Now let's see who is the first to give me s**t for using a k&n pod and ditching the factory unit....

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
    • Hi,  Just joined the forum so I could share my "fix" of this problem. Might be of use to someone. Had the same hunting at idle issue on my V36 with VQ35HR engine after swapping the engine because the original one got overheated.  While changing the engine I made the mistake of cleaning the throttle bodies and tried all the tricks i could find to do a throttle relearn with no luck. Gave in and took it to a shop and they couldn't sort it. Then took it to my local Nissan dealership and they couldn't get it to idle properly. They said I'd need to replace the throttle bodies and the ecu probably costing more than the car is worth. So I had the idea of replacing the carbon I cleaned out with a thin layer of super glue and it's back to normal idle now. Bit rough but saved the car from the wreckers 🤣
    • After my last update, I went ahead with cleaning and restoring the entire fuel system. This included removing the tank and cleaning it with the Beyond Balistics solution, power washing it multiple times, drying it thoroughly, rinsing with IPA, drying again with heat gun and compressed air. Also, cleaning out the lines, fuel rail, and replacing the fuel pump with an OEM-style one. During the cleaning process, I replaced several hoses - including the breather hose on the fuel tank, which turned out to be the cause of the earlier fuel leak. This is what the old fuel filter looked like: Fuel tank before cleaning: Dirty Fuel Tank.mp4   Fuel tank after cleaning (some staining remains): Clean Fuel Tank.mp4 Both the OEM 270cc and new DeatschWerks 550cc injectors were cleaned professionally by a shop. Before reassembling everything, I tested the fuel flow by running the pump output into a container at the fuel filter location - flow looked good. I then fitted the new fuel filter and reassembled the rest of the system. Fuel Flow Test.mp4 Test 1 - 550cc injectors Ran the new fuel pump with its supplied diagonal strainer (different from OEM’s flat strainer) and my 550cc injectors using the same resized-injector map I had successfully used before. At first, it idled roughly and stalled when I applied throttle. Checked the spark plugs and found that they were fouled with carbon (likely from the earlier overly rich running when the injectors were clogged). After cleaning the plugs, the car started fine. However, it would only idle for 30–60 seconds before stalling, and while driving it would feel like a “fuel cut” after a few seconds - though it wouldn’t fully stall. Test 2 – Strainer swap Suspecting the diagonal strainer might not be reaching the tank bottom, I swapped it for the original flat strainer and filled the tank with ~45L of fuel. The issue persisted exactly the same. Test 3 – OEM injectors To eliminate tuning variables, I reinstalled the OEM 270cc injectors and reverted to the original map. Cleaned the spark plugs again just in-case. The stalling and “fuel cut” still remained.   At this stage, I suspect an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, caused during the cleaning process. This has led me to look into getting Frenchy’s fuel hanger and replacing the unit entirely. TL;DR: Cleaned and restored the fuel system (tank, lines, rail, pump). Tested 550cc injectors with the same resized-injector map as before, but the car stalls at idle and experiences what feels like “fuel cut” after a few seconds of driving. Swapped back to OEM injectors with original map to rule out tuning, but the issue persists. Now suspecting an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, possibly cause by the cleaning process.  
×
×
  • Create New...