Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Put 79.48 litres of fuel in my tank.

That's a new record.

I would've started looking for a leak when it hit 70! Good one.

Ordered premium plates just for cosmetic reasons. South Australia premium plates look much better on Jap cars if you use a large rear (on the rear) + a normal rear (on the front).

I've also saved probably twice as much cash as i need to look at better tuning for the M35 plus i'm still holding onto the Manual dream.

I've got the larger plate on the front and rear, I think it looks okay - it admittedly came that way from the previous owner but I never even contemplated getting a standard front.

What are you thinking in terms of tuning options next?

Today replaced a cracked LH rear rotor and dogbone that had a broken bolt in it. Got the bitz from the Dayz.

I need the parts back so if anyone has bits please PM or 0439100207

Today replaced a cracked LH rear rotor and dogbone that had a broken bolt in it. Got the bitz from the Dayz.

I need the parts back so if anyone has bits please PM or 0439100207

How did you manage to crack a rotor?
  • Like 1

Today replaced a cracked LH rear rotor and dogbone that had a broken bolt in it. Got the bitz from the Dayz.

I need the parts back so if anyone has bits please PM or 0439100207

what are you running the dogbones for are you using different calipers on the rear? Edited by Lakes101

What are you thinking in terms of tuning options next?

Still planning at this stage as i've been fair busy of late... i always tend to be able to save a lot of cash when i'm busy with stuff.

It will have to be something stand alone (Haltech or whatever) but i am trying to get time to speak with local tuners. I'll see what sort of power it makes with my current set up and then i may have a look at any advancements in Hypergear units since the original SS2. this car is my daily so i'm looking for a nice balance between peak and response (i'm quite happy with the SS2 so it may make no sense to change anything)

In my opinion the dream is to go manual with some form of stand alone tuning option which i'm trying to optimistic and make forward steps. I've saved up easily enough $$$$ to do the job it's just not so easy getting things off the ground.

Once i have something to share i'll most certainly do so...

  • Like 1

How did you manage to crack a rotor?

Dont know. I think it got metal to metal and over heated The crack is radial on both sides.. But have no idea how the fixing bolt sheared. It appears to be an old break

Edited by 66yostagea

Changed the front struts. Holy crap the springs in these are solid, I destroyed a set of compressors on them, and even the large press at the local suspension shop was creaking a bit.

I didn't follow any specific guide to get them out, I have a Haynes manual for 350Z/G35 which was only handy for torque values since, well, it's a Haynes manual. To get the assembly out I removed the curved steel link (technical term ahoy!) that runs from the LCA to the bottom of the strut. Should the nut at the LCA end be loctited on? It runs through a bush and was pretty tough to crack. It also looks like the nut holding the brake line to the strut had some kind on loctite on it too, which seems like overkill for the job.

Also I really, really enjoyed trying to get to the left-side innermost strut mount bolt, thoughtfully positioned beneath two A/C pipes and two wiring conduits. Much swearing ensued.

  • Like 2

Recently installed the following on my RS4S:

Cusco Castor Rods

Cusco Front Upper Camber Arms

Hardrace Rear Upper Camber Arms

Enkei RPF1 18x9.5+15

Went to see Brian (ex Group A suspension Engineer) for an alignment which he runs out of his garage

FL Camber: -2.2

FR Camber: -2.0

FL Caster: 5.5

FR Caster: 5.25

RL Camber: -1

RR Camber: -1

Rear Toe: 1mm Toe in

Track = even

Car feels great! Massive improvement in handling, plow under steer has gone and turn in has improved dramatically!

http://www.gumtree.com.au/s-ad/noble-park/wheels-tyres-rims/work-meister-s1-3piece-for-swaps-or-sale-/1083914512

Why do you tempt me so gumtree!!!

WHY!!!

(anyone live near Greater Dandenong that can inspect for me????? :P )

Edited by Beregron

http://www.gumtree.com.au/s-ad/noble-park/wheels-tyres-rims/work-meister-s1-3piece-for-swaps-or-sale-/1083914512

Why do you tempt me so gumtree!!!

WHY!!!

(anyone live near Greater Dandenong that can inspect for me????? :P )

Actually these are staggered.... Altessa won't enjoy that i assume :(

As long as your tyre size is the same it will be fine

Thats rolling diameter yeah... width makes no difference? (why would it....)

I just need to double check that offset for an M35. 10's on the back would require some guard rolling i assume but thats easy

In other news my M35 will be up on the hoist today with a mate who i am annoying (maybe a little too much) to get his head around manual conversion ideas. I have read about it more times than i can count on various SAU threads but action needs to be taken. Measurements need to be looked at i guess and while people say what will fit and what to use it all needs to be confirmed before i throw any $$$ down.

Then will come the tuning headaches...

Edited by Beregron

OK so a bit for forum trolling tells me that 9.5 +30 should only require slight guard rolling on an M35 and the fronts i'm looking at are 9 +33 so should be ok....

Rears are 10 +18 which is a heap of dish so perhaps that's where the problems will be... i need to find something to test fit that's similar

Hmmmm...

Lets see...

Rear adjustable camber arms, coilovers, wheel alignment, HKS exhaust, luggage lamp, and getting detailed tomorrow before the SAU QLD charity cruise.

  • Like 1

Just LPG'd my C34.

Long process involved which started back in September last year.

Long story short:

Stock fuel tank removed. Spare wheel well cut out. Boot floor welded flat. Fit replacement 32 litre alloy fuel tank, with in tank Walbro fuel pump. Fit external mounted 85 litre LPG tank to underside of boot floor. Run car like this for 6 months with a noisy Walbro. I need to get into the tank and fit some baffling around the pump.

Fitted the LPG kit a few weeks ago. My installer struggled to get the plenum off but managed to get it eventually. Looks untidy, but hey the rest of the car isnt much to look at either! Said he would never take on another Stagea install again!

Anyway, LPG is in and running. Managed to get the equivalent of 42mpg from the first fill up. For the AUS guys, super unleaded (97-99 RON) here is around £1.30p, I'm paying £0.43p for LPG! Since then one (or two) of the injectors have failed and are stuck permanently open. Likely due to the injectors being in crappy storage conditions for 18 months after I ripped it from my old Legnum. Need to replace the faulty ones next week along with changing the throttle body.

Then to tackle the wing mirror rust in August, and get the strut tower tops welded as there is some rust coming through.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah, that's fine**. But the numbers you came up with are just wrong. Try it for yourself. Put in any voltage from the possible range and see what result you get. You get nonsense. ** When I say "fine", I mean, it's still shit. The very simple linear formula (slope & intercept) is shit for a sensor with a non-linear response. This is the curve, from your data above. Look at the CURVE! It's only really linear between about 30 and 90 °C. And if you used only that range to define a curve, it would be great. But you would go more and more wrong as you went to higher temps. And that is why the slope & intercept found when you use 50 and 150 as the end points is so bad halfway between those points. The real curve is a long way below the linear curve which just zips straight between the end points, like this one. You could probably use the same slope and a lower intercept, to move that straight line down, and spread the error out. But you would 5-10°C off in a lot of places. You'd need to say what temperature range you really wanted to be most right - say, 100 to 130, and plop the line closest to teh real curve in that region, which would make it quite wrong down at the lower temperatures. Let me just say that HPTuners are not being realistic in only allowing for a simple linear curve. 
    • I feel I should re-iterate. The above picture is the only option available in the software and the blurb from HP Tuners I quoted earlier is the only way to add data to it and that's the description they offer as to how to figure it out. The only fields available is the blank box after (Input/ ) and the box right before = Output. Those are the only numbers that can be entered.
    • No, your formula is arse backwards. Mine is totally different to yours, and is the one I said was bang on at 50 and 150. I'll put your data into Excel (actually it already is, chart it and fit a linear fit to it, aiming to make it evenly wrong across the whole span. But not now. Other things to do first.
    • God damnit. The only option I actually have in the software is the one that is screenshotted. I am glad that I at least got it right... for those two points. Would it actually change anything if I chose/used 80C and 120C as the two points instead? My brain wants to imagine the formula put into HPtuners would be the same equation, otherwise none of this makes sense to me, unless: 1) The formula you put into VCM Scanner/HPTuners is always linear 2) The two points/input pairs are only arbitrary to choose (as the documentation implies) IF the actual scaling of the sensor is linear. then 3) If the scaling is not linear, the two points you choose matter a great deal, because the formula will draw a line between those two points only.
    • Nah, that is hella wrong. If I do a simple linear between 150°C (0.407v) and 50°C (2.98v) I get the formula Temperature = -38.8651*voltage + 165.8181 It is perfectly correct at 50 and 150, but it is as much as 20° out in the region of 110°C, because the actual data is significantly non-linear there. It is no more than 4° out down at the lowest temperatures, but is is seriously shit almost everywhere. I cannot believe that the instruction is to do a 2 point linear fit. I would say the method I used previously would have to be better.
×
×
  • Create New...