Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

glad I don't have them in there rear of mine it shits me enough with just the fronts when people walk past at intersections. In Sydney f**ks pull up behind you so close I'd be murdering people all day if I had rear ones lol [emoji380][emoji380]

Aren't rears normally disabled when moving forwards? Unless they're being used for blindspot avoidance I guess.

I'd rather a camera...

I guess but you would think the front ones would be disabled when reversing then but that's not the case! Well not in mine any ways..... Yeah I love my rear camera over beepers any day!

  • Like 1

Finally got around to doing the brake cut mod yesterday. Confirmed with my greddy informeter. Throttle 35% factory and much higher with switch off. I did notice WOT was only 78% does that sound right??

Finally got around to doing the brake cut mod yesterday. Confirmed with my greddy informeter. Throttle 35% factory and much higher with switch off. I did notice WOT was only 78% does that sound right??

78% is normal. You can scale it so it reads 100%, but I can't remember how.

  • Like 1

Installled new head unit. Working well and much better sound.

What connector is that? it was connected in the old head unit

Yes steering wheel control plug . Previous owner of my stag had it all working to a degree i replaced headunit and have since lost all controls

  • Like 1

bolt on Dolphin intake pipe from JP

:rolleyes::rolleyes:

attachicon.gifIMG_1680.JPG

attachicon.gifIMG_1686.JPG

attachicon.gifIMG_1688.JPG

attachicon.gifIMG_1687.JPG

Problem with this kit is it replaces the pipe that already flows well. The gains are from replacing the lower pipe.

Problem with this kit is it replaces the pipe that already flows well. The gains are from replacing the lower pipe.

I think it actually flows worse than the stock one. :P

  • Like 1

Steering wheel controls would have needed to be connected separate to the main loom (3wires) and head deck needs to be compatible with resistance based controls. After all is wired you need to teach the head deck what the controls do

  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Let's be honest, most of the people designing parts like the above, aren't engineers. Sometimes they come from disciplines that gives them more qualitative feel for design than quantitive, however, plenty of them have just picked up a license to Fusion and started making things. And that's the honest part about the majority of these guys making parts like that, they don't have huge R&D teams and heaps of time or experience working out the numbers on it. Shit, most smaller teams that do have real engineers still roll with "yeah, it should be okay, and does the job, let's make them and just see"...   The smaller guys like KiwiCNC, aren't the likes of Bosch etc with proper engineering procedures, and oversights, and sign off. As such, it's why they can produce a product to market a lot quicker, but it always comes back to, question it all.   I'm still not a fan of that bolt on piece. Why not just machine it all in one go? With the right design it's possible. The only reason I can see is if they want different heights/length for the tie rod to bolt to. And if they have the cncs themselves,they can easily offer that exact feature, and just machine it all in one go. 
    • The roof is wrapped
    • This is how I last did this when I had a master cylinder fail and introduce air. Bleed before first stage, go oh shit through first stage, bleed at end of first stage, go oh shit through second stage, bleed at end of second stage, go oh shit through third stage, bleed at end of third stage, go oh shit through fourth stage, bleed at lunch, go oh shit through fifth stage, bleed at end of fifth stage, go oh shit through sixth stage....you get the idea. It did come good in the end. My Topdon scan tool can bleed the HY51 and V37, but it doesn't have a consult connector and I don't have an R34 to check that on. I think finding a tool in an Australian workshop other than Nissan that can bleed an R34 will be like rocking horse poo. No way will a generic ODB tool do it.
    • Hmm. Perhaps not the same engineers. The OE Nissan engineers did not forsee a future with spacers pushing the tie rod force application further away from the steering arm and creating that torque. The failures are happening since the advent of those things, and some 30 years after they designed the uprights. So latent casting deficiencies, 30+ yrs of wear and tear, + unexpected usage could quite easily = unforeseen failure. Meanwhile, the engineers who are designing the billet CNC or fabricated uprights are also designing, for the same parts makers, the correction tie rod ends. And they are designing and building these with motorsport (or, at the very least, the meth addled antics of drifters) in mind. So I would hope (in fact, I would expect) that their design work included the offset of that steering force. Doesn't mean that it is not totally valid to ask the question of them, before committing $$.
    • The downside of this is when you try to track the car, as soon as you hit ABS you get introduced to a unbled system. I want to avoid this. I do not want to bleed/flush/jack up the car twice just to bleed the f**kin car.
×
×
  • Create New...