Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

EDIT COMPLETE, here's my consumption

And I didn't drive it like a grandma. Keep in mind I said standard....so it was 190rwkw with standard everything except for FMIC, pod filter, JJR coilpacks, and 11psi

post-60560-0-23881400-1294225085_thumb.jpg

  • Replies 48
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

well atm i have had them for year. car idles fine, cold start always been good, makes 282rwkw on 15psi

mind u thats on a rich (11.5afr) e85 tune! re tune in a week or two for 25psi.

What Ive heard is it all depends on who does it. If they do a good job then it should be fine but also if its dodgy can be a disaster. Ive even heard of some guys freind doing it for him in hes own garage and aparently no complaints lol.

But personally I like to spend the extra and know 100percent I know what is in there is quality so in my book nismos ftw,

I just picked up from the guys at PRO-RACE a set of seimens 650cc injectors $492 ret, a top feed rail $290 ret, and a set if injector plugs from Coventrys $50 ret. I think its the cheapest way and its all brand new so you should not have any problems.

I'm personally not a fan of hi-flowed injectors, probably from one bad experience. A friend of mine had hi-flowed injectors on his 200SX and no matter what I did on the PowerFC I couldn't get A/F on idle or light cruise.

I suspect bad spray pattern, yes it will flow what you want, but it's pretty much acting like a hose spraying petrol instead of misting it.

Please note, I said from "bad experience".

i got my injectors hi-flowed by PJ Quick bits.

600cc @ 43psi

850cc @ 60psi

all flowed within 1-2cc of each other.

no issues yet with run in tune, pulled around 180rwkw @ 8psi, full tune in 1.5wks so i will report back with any issues.

I also had a set done by cef1ie and found them to work fine. Later sold them to another member and never heard back on a complaint. Cef1ie also ran the same thing in his own car to great results.

In the end I got a set of injectors back with one hole rather than 4, so it seems consistent with what was mentioned in the thread above.

ive got 740cc hi flowed injectors, not long after installing them my car developed a bad misfire from idle to 2000rpm, turned out to be inferior quality pindle caps fitted when they were high flowed, quite annoying that a 2c part ended up costing quite a bit in labour to have fixed.

my mechanic isnt a big fan of the high flows, as mentioned he reckons that when they are high flowed the spray pattern is pretty much wrecked. Idle and cold start isnt the best either, once its warm though its fine, apart from that though they do the job.

car is 214rwkw@10psi

Edited by bsd-gtst

i spoke to cef1ie and he said he doesnt touch the pindle at all just the screen so incorrect fitted pindle caps is a load of s*** so in saying that the spray pattern is not changed because the pindle is not touched

Edited by luvpsi

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Sounds like you've got an interesting adventure ahead here with local support if you have trouble! My guess is that, unboosted, you will be OK with a small upgrade like -9. What will happen is that once the stock ECU sees more airflow than it expects it will add a heap of fuel and pull a heap of timing to be safe because it can't understand how it could get that much air without there being an issue. You will see clouds of black smoke and it won't pull hard through the midrange and top end. So, overall it will be a bit frustrating but should be OK. If you are still nervous set the base timing back 2o through the CAS, but it will be even more sluggish everywhere. As said above through...this is not my guarantee your engine won't be blown into a million pieces, leaving you looking for very hard to find parts A better idea is get a computer with logging ASAP, wire in a wide band O2 sensor and a use remote tuner. I've done multiple cars this way and while it is not as good as a specific tune on a dyno they can get it 90% right. I'd suggest if you can afford an R33 GTR these days you can afford an ECU and tune. And if you can't afford that you sure won't be able to afford the rebuild if it goes bad in the meantime,.  
    • Yeah it would be nice if someone took the time to put that sort of information together, but there are a lot of variations in looms. I think you are making this way hard for yourself if you just want to get it running....sourcing an SR20 with the right wiring will be a billion times easier than matching the RB loom to an S15 chassis. If you do end up going this way, you just need to trace every wire in the loom with a multimeter, 95% of them will go to a location you can confirm at the ECU.....and then post it up for the next person who needs it  
    • Just top it up with water, and keep a general idea of how much you added. It is normal for water to be pushed into and pulled out of the reservoir through the cap, and it should not be more than half full or it will be likely to overflow when hot. Any decent mechanic can do a pressure test of the cooling system to confirm if you have a leak. Keep in mind if it is only leaking a little and when hot it may well evaporate before you see it hit the ground
    • I'd ask the shop what they used and use that. Mixing coolants is sometimes OK, sometimes not, and you have know the details of each coolant to know whether it's a good idea or not.
    • Is it alright to top up with just another green coolant?
×
×
  • Create New...