Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

ok i have just brought a r33 series 2 gtst after seling my series 1 gts and it was stock when i got it since i have installed a gfb bov, hdi duel stage boost controller, new radiator platium plugs and splitfire coils and turbo back 3inc.

ok with the boost controller i have low set at 8 and high at 12 now the problem is it make boost fine but in 1st gear nothing it will only hit a max of 2psi like wtf every other gear fine no prob just 1st gear wont boost and i didnt drive it enough before i modded it to notice if it boosted stock so is it a saftey thing with the ecu or something else could u all please give some insight

thanks pottsy

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/350147-helpl-boost-prob/
Share on other sites

lol lay the welcome mat out why don't ya, but i must confess that i do agree.

although that said he should be making more boost.

id say poor install of boost controller. in higher gears/load, its probably hiding it a bit.

You seem new, and even though you've bought average to crap mods, I'll go easy on you.

Turbos don't boost in 1st gear. The car doesn't have enough load.

Seems like an odd claim; Factory R34 turbo I'll happily hit the limit of the R32 10psi actuator in 1st gear?

I am very well mechanically minded just not with turbos mafia wat mods would u have done I only want 200kw the only other thing I was goin to do was to do was fmic already upgraded to r34 smic but getting fm nd a tune just factory ecu still but I have just done timing belts nd all seals and gaskets in engine and taken photos at every step so I could put up a guide if u would all like ?

mech minded or not, your boost controller install IMO is the issue.

either that or the controller itself.

'dual stage' bleed values, which is what you have, are well know to be very average products at best.

there are better, and incidentally cheaper, options.

Turbos don't boost in 1st gear. The car doesn't have enough load.

they build later in 1st but unless you have some massive turbo on it they'll almost always reach 90% of target boost in 1st. my old 25 had no trouble building 20psi from a gt30 in 1st even with wheelspin. a standard turbo will easily make 10-12psi in 1st by 4000-4500rpm with properly setup boost control

as nismoid said probs the boost controller. have you set it up so that it keeps the gate shut until 2-3psi below target boost? (no idea how the hdi works but it'll have some sort of adjustment)

Edited by JonnoHR31

my old 25 had no trouble building 20psi from a gt30 in 1st even with wheelspin. a standard turbo will easily make 10-12psi in 1st by 4000-4500rpm

20psi, in first gear with a GT30 on a RB25?

ok. Now I have seen it all.

Post a video or I call 110% bullshit.

20psi, in first gear with a GT30 on a RB25?

ok. Now I have seen it all.

Post a video or I call 110% bullshit.

cant do video, car isnt running and has a different combo now anyway. but it definately made more than 2psi, which your trying to say is normal with a standard turbo?

i have a r34 gtt with standard turbo, it will make max boost in first gear when it is set to low ( low setting is about 8 psi i think, definately more than 2 : P). i have a greddy profec B-spec II as my boost controller

..i believe my brothers 180sx has the same problem as OP though. reaches next to no boost in first..do u just need a good boost controller (installed and set correctly) to fix this problem?

My highflow rb20 turbo makes 13-14psi by redline in first on my rb25, the stock turbo easily makes the 10psi by redline, I have seen it many many times in my old rb20.

The issue here is your actuator but beed valves are generally crap and I recommend either using nothing as you'll get 10psi fairly easily off the spring with an rb20 actuator and a 3" exhaust, or get an electronic bleed valve. The fact you are making less boost than with nothing indicates your waste gate spring is probably not tensioned correctly or there is an issue with it, if you stuff up the install of a boost controller it usually results in infinite boost, not less than the spring boost.

Have you installed an rb20 actuator? If not look into it as your actuator is probably the issue here, did it do this before?

In my experience is the bleed valves just cause the boost to spike or don't do anything, on larger turbos they work better as they are slower to respond and easier to control.

i have a r34 gtt with standard turbo, it will make max boost in first gear when it is set to low ( low setting is about 8 psi i think, definately more than 2 : P). i have a greddy profec B-spec II as my boost controller

..i believe my brothers 180sx has the same problem as OP though. reaches next to no boost in first..do u just need a good boost controller (installed and set correctly) to fix this problem?

No you don't it shows there is an issue with something else, a bleed valve can only increase boost from the base spring pressure which should be at least 8psi, 10-12psi if using an rb20 actuator. If you are getting less than this, it indicates the actuator is opening too early for some reason, hence the slow boost build, having a controller on there just masks this. If you remove the controller it probably only makes 2psi in every gear, shows there is something definitely wrong.

Edited by Rolls

Yeah I also definitely make more than 2psi in first gear.

I thought a boost controller could only make more boost than what the actuator is set to, not less.

Either way you could try a turbotech boost tee as a test, they are excellent and only $30.

Boost is proportional to load really. As someone said go up a steep hill in first and you'll make more post then going down a steep hill in first.

On a straight road you should really reach a decent boost level, maybe a few psi short of set boost depending on what your running. I def hit 10psi on stock turbo in first and am able to do about the same with my new turbo which is only set to run 13ish psi ATM.

I had a dual stage on mine and it seemed to work fine right up until I installed the power fc boost kit. My dual stage was turbo smart and they did recommend that you remove the ball (and possibly the spring as well) in the t piece (where it splits to go wastegate one way and boost feed the other)

I did this and it seemed a bit better. I'm not sure if the HDI kits are the same. Is there anything like that in the instructions?

Boost is proportional to load really. As someone said go up a steep hill in first and you'll make more post then going down a steep hill in first.

On a straight road you should really reach a decent boost level, maybe a few psi short of set boost depending on what your running. I def hit 10psi on stock turbo in first and am able to do about the same with my new turbo which is only set to run 13ish psi ATM.

Yes, but the job of your actuator is to get the boost to remain steady as best it can. If it is working well it should sit on the same boost no matter what the gradient of the road or gear you are in (as long as it can get to the required boost level).

Yes but I was giving an example of how the turbo behaves respective of load. Not wether or not it will stay consistent if it reaches it's boost level. I felt it was a better example then saying you won't hit target boost in neutral (unless maybe your on limiter) as opposed to flat to the floor in third. The hill thing was just an easier comparison of load.

OP: read the manual to see if what I have said in my last post is in there and if it says the reason behind doing that mod. Might be for boost creep rather then your problem I forget. Otherwise I'd try putting stock parts bak on to trial (BOV and boost solenoid mainly) if it starts working then it will show you your problem

I could make a max of 5psi in first, nothing more. WIth a GT30 and 0.63 rear.

OP needs to look at if the wastegate is holding shut. Or put tension on it.

Wait... Something is wrong then, I think mine will even open gate on high boost in 1st gear! That's 26psi :)

Will test with some videos tonight and see what I actually get.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I mean, I got two VASS engineers to refuse to cert my own coilovers stating those very laws. Appendix B makes it pretty clear what it considers 'Variable Suspension' to be. In my lived experience they can't certify something that isn't actually in the list as something that requires certification. In the VASS engineering checklist they have to complete (LS3/NCOP11) and sign on there is nothing there. All the references inside NCOP11 state that if it's variable by the driver that height needs to maintain 100mm while the car is in motion. It states the car is lowered lowering blocks and other types of things are acceptable. Dialling out a shock is about as 'user adjustable' as changing any other suspension component lol. I wanted to have it signed off to dissuade HWP and RWC testers to state the suspension is legal to avoid having this discussion with them. The real problem is that Police and RWC/Pink/Blue slip people will say it needs engineering, and the engineers will state it doesn't need engineering. It is hugely irritating when aforementioned people get all "i know the rules mate feck off" when they don't, and the actual engineers are pleasant as all hell and do know the rules. Cars failing RWC for things that aren't listed in the RWC requirements is another thing here entirely!
    • I don't. I mean, mine's not a GTR, but it is a 32 with a lot of GTR stuff on it. But regardless, I typically buy from local suppliers. Getting stuff from Japan is seldom worth the pain. Buying from RHDJapan usually ends up in the final total of your basket being about double what you thought it would be, after all the bullshit fees and such are added on.
    • The hydrocarbon component of E10 can be shittier, and is in fact, shittier, than that used in normal 91RON fuel. That's because the octane boost provided by the ethanol allows them to use stuff that doesn't make the grade without the help. The 1c/L saving typically available on E10 is going to be massively overridden by the increased consumption caused by the ethanol and the crappier HC (ie the HCs will be less dense, meaning that there will definitely be less energy per unit volume than for more dense HCs). That is one of the reasons why P98 will return better fuel consumption than 91 does, even with the ignition timing completely fixed. There is more energy per unit volume because the HCs used in 98 are higher density than in the lawnmower fuel.
    • No, I'd suggest that that is the checklist for pneumatic/hydraulic adjustable systems. I would say, based on my years of reading and complying with Australian Standards and similar regulations, that the narrow interpretation of Clause 3.2 b would be the preferred/expected/intended one, by the author, and those using the standard. Wishful thinking need not apply.
    • Yes they do. For some maybe. But for those used the most by abusers, ie Skylines, the numbers are known. The stock eyebrow height for R32/3 Skylines is about 365/375mm or thereabouts. The minimum such heights are recorded in adjacent columns in the database.
×
×
  • Create New...