Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I was thinking about this and it's not so simple, many cars now seem to be getting more heavy, complex, powerful from factory and consequently very expensive and hard to modify.

Skylines are cars that kind of offer democratic hi-performance to the DIY modder and are not that expensive.

I'd put the R35 into a totally different bracket to be honest.

Where have the manual sports cars gone? Especially RWD like the GTST?

This has been discussed.. ended up being 350 - 370Z and V35 & V36.. maybe you should search :P

Ha ha why just Nissans though?

The cars you refer to are luxo-sports cars. I like say the 350GT but it's no hooligans sports car and the V-series have thrashy drive trains. And the 350Z is nice but a bit ghey to be honest as well as being NA so harder to get moar power.whistling.gif

Edited by Tony de Wonderful

i think the new hyundai coupe thing will be one for sure. the RS focus have a decent following too. then the typical rx8, wrx and evo and of course the r35, as well as the above mentioned 350z and 370z.

i think the new hyundai coupe thing will be one for sure. the RS focus have a decent following too. then the typical rx8, wrx and evo and of course the r35, as well as the above mentioned 350z and 370z.

Well the WRX is now a family hatch, and the RX-8 is very meh compared to the RX-7. Turbo sports cars seem to have had their heydey in the 90's IMHO and now you tend to get heavier and less sporty NA's.

WRX also has a sedan version but indeed takes on more of the liberty look.. the main crowd are after luxury these days and the car manufacturing will go with the largest sales..

XR6 Turbo? the LS1-on Commodores etc

ding ding ding

Any falcon straight 6 turbo will be the next "tuned" car of the masses.

If you think about it the reason's the skylines are a big hit is (relatively) cheap quick easy power. Sames as the VL turbo's before them, same as the Falcon turbo's after them.

And completely disagree about the V35 and V36 being in that list or RX8 or anything naturally aspirated that costs $50k really. I love em and have had2 V35's but it will never be a car of the masses and a "tuned" car like the 32-34's are/were

i think it's almost too early to say what out of the current cars (other than xr6t) will be tuner cars in the near future as the cars are still too expensive. if you go back 10 years, how many skyline imports were really in the tuner scene in australia? very few because of the cost and supply. most of the cars i mentioned earlier still have good 'tuner' appeal, so you will get the tuner companies doing good work with them, but that doesn't mean that the general public will flock to them. the cost is still a massive factor (r35 GTR is a perfect example).

i think that at this point in time, the 2 biggest 'tuner' cars currently being worked out of the late model stuff would be the xr6t and anything with a LSx motor in it.

Maybe a BMW 1/3 series?

RWD, manual, 2 or 4 door, not too much heavier, small to medium capacity turbo or non turbo inline 6 engine (with relatively low power output so I'd assume its fairly easy to make more power from it), sports oriented suspension.

Not sure if they fit the bill of being cheap/easy to modify but other than that when you think about it they are like the euro equivalent of skylines

Edited by Crackfox

xr6t /thread

Maybe but I'd say they had more in common with the V8 scene than the import tuner scene (aside fromt he fact they are not imports :))which is more into track/drift.

They would make great drag cars but for all round 'performance' not so good.

Criteria:-

* RWD ?

* Straight 6 ?

* Turbo modification ?

* Corners you beaut (damn better than an XR6T)?

Thought of a Bavariacars.com.au E46 M3?

Compliments of Herbert Gattermeier - BMW Driver's Club.

Maybe a BMW 1/3 series?

RWD, manual, 2 or 4 door, not too much heavier, small to medium capacity turbo or non turbo inline 6 engine (with relatively low power output so I'd assume its fairly easy to make more power from it), sports oriented suspension.

Not sure if they fit the bill of being cheap/easy to modify but other than that when you think about it they are like the euro equivalent of skylines

Yep definetely. Fair enough they cost a shit load nowadays but one day they will be affordable. In the US they are unbelievably cheap.

Dad's is an 09 335i coupe with the M sport package and the 7 speed dual clutch paddle shift transmission.

The thing handles like you wouldn't believe and in complete stock form can pretty much smoke anything off the line (without even using the launch control).

From factory they are heavily detuned running lowish boost. The most I have seen on E90post is close to 300rwkw out of the factory twin turbos and 11 second pasess.

Absolutely fantastic engine the N54.

Lexus IS200/300

2JZ capable. Surprised why more people don't play with them. Once you get past those gay tail lights (there's aftermarket alternatives) they are great cars...

i agree with that hyundai coupe thing (forgot the name, but saw it drifting) pretty sweet car imo, looks decent, doesent look too heavy, sporty and stylish.

most cars these days rely more and more on electronics which in real life isnt alot of fun for us, BMW Mercedesa etc etc are mostly out of the league for the majority of people looking at a skyline equivilant, aftermarket tuning options cost an arm and a leg hard to come by aswell, too heavy, too much electronics to mess around with, disconnect one thing and your air lift suspension dont work or your alarm wont go off, the skylines 31-34 were like the m16 carbine equivelent in cars, 90% interchangability, clip on clip off stuff, parts you can find left right and centre and really, arent that expensive to maintain.

but then again, sports turbos was a thing of the past, 80-90's, now its all about that ghey global warming and emissions BS.

only people who dont seem to have a limit on that kind of stuff are aussies and the americans, they still build the most basic/ standard you can possibly get out of any engine/car combination, throw a big block into a big car.... good idea for the tuning drag community, but not so much for most of us on this forum.

but if you want to, think of it from an overseas persons POV, back in germany everyone drives BMW's and mercs, thats their equivelant to our skylines.

USA, all drive muscle cars, UK..... god knows what they drive, Japan is same scene as here, France and Italy its either citroen or fiat or some ol' BS

thats my dollar worth of info

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • God damnit. The only option I actually have in the software is the one that is screenshotted. I am glad that I at least got it right... for those two points. Would it actually change anything if I chose/used 80C and 120C as the two points instead? My brain wants to imagine the formula put into HPtuners would be the same equation, otherwise none of this makes sense to me, unless: 1) The formula you put into VCM Scanner/HPTuners is always linear 2) The two points/input pairs are only arbitrary to choose (as the documentation implies) IF the actual scaling of the sensor is linear. then 3) If the scaling is not linear, the two points you choose matter a great deal, because the formula will draw a line between those two points only.
    • Nah, that is hella wrong. If I do a simple linear between 150°C (0.407v) and 50°C (2.98v) I get the formula Temperature = -38.8651*voltage + 165.8181 It is perfectly correct at 50 and 150, but it is as much as 20° out in the region of 110°C, because the actual data is significantly non-linear there. It is no more than 4° out down at the lowest temperatures, but is is seriously shit almost everywhere. I cannot believe that the instruction is to do a 2 point linear fit. I would say the method I used previously would have to be better.
    • When I said "wiring diagram", I meant the car's wiring diagram. You need to understand how and when 12V appears on certain wires/terminals, when 0V is allowed to appear on certain wires/terminals (which is the difference between supply side switching, and earth side switching), for the way that the car is supposed to work without the immobiliser. Then you start looking for those voltages in the appropriate places at the appropriate times (ie, relay terminals, ECU terminals, fuel pump terminals, at different ignition switch positions, and at times such as "immediately after switching to ON" and "say, 5-10s after switching to ON". You will find that you are not getting what you need when and where you need it, and because you understand what you need and when, from working through the wiring diagram, you can then likely work out why you're not getting it. And that will lead you to the mess that has been made of the associated wires around the immobiliser. But seriously, there is no way that we will be able to find or lead you to the fault from here. You will have to do it at the car, because it will be something f**ked up, and there are a near infinite number of ways for it to be f**ked up. The wiring diagram will give you wire colours and pin numbers and so you can do continuity testing and voltage/time probing and start to work out what is right and what is wrong. I can only close my eyes and imagine a rat's nest of wiring under the dash. You can actually see and touch it.
    • So I found this: https://www.efihardware.com/temperature-sensor-voltage-calculator I didn't know what the pullup resistor is. So I thought if I used my table of known values I could estimate it by putting a value into the pullup resistor, and this should line up with the voltages I had measured. Eventually I got this table out of it by using 210ohms as the pullup resistor. 180C 0.232V - Predicted 175C 0.254V - Predicted 170C 0.278V - Predicted 165C 0.305V - Predicted 160C 0.336V - Predicted 155C 0.369V - Predicted 150C 0.407V - Predicted 145C 0.448V - Predicted 140C 0.494V - Predicted 135C 0.545V - Predicted 130C 0.603V - Predicted 125C 0.668V - Predicted 120C 0.740V - Predicted 115C 0.817V - Predicted 110C 0.914V - Predicted 105C 1.023V - Predicted 100C 1.15V 90C 1.42V - Predicted 85C 1.59V 80C 1.74V 75C 1.94V 70C 2.10V 65C 2.33V 60C 2.56V 58C 2.68V 57C 2.70V 56C 2.74V 55C 2.78V 54C 2.80V 50C 2.98V 49C 3.06V 47C 3.18V 45C 3.23V 43C 3.36V 40C 3.51V 37C 3.67V 35C 3.75V 30C 4.00V As before, the formula in HPTuners is here: https://www.hptuners.com/documentation/files/VCM-Scanner/Content/vcm_scanner/defining_a_transform.htm?Highlight=defining a transform Specifically: In my case I used 50C and 150C, given the sensor is supposedly for that. Input 1 = 2.98V Output 1 = 50C Input 2 = 0.407V Output 2 = 150C (0.407-2.98) / (150-50) -2.573/100 = -0.02573 2.98/-0.02573 + 47.045 = 50 So the corresponding formula should be: (Input / -0.02573) + 47.045 = Output.   If someone can confirm my math it'd be great. Supposedly you can pick any two pairs of the data to make this formula.
×
×
  • Create New...