Jump to content
SAU Community

Clutch Or Gearbox

Branelly
 Share

Recommended Posts

Branelly Enthusiast

Branelly

Posted
Posted

So the other week i stupidly let one of my friends drive my car. Hes revved it a bit (alot) to high and i could notice he was slipping the clutch abit. Anyway around the next corner hes pulled over and said that none of the gears are going anywhere. So i hop in and put it in 1st, let the clutch out nothing, 2nd nothing. Sure enough no gear grabs at all.

I keep trying and then notice that in first gear the car will roll at about 10kph but revving it just revs the engine with no forward movement. So after spending the last hour reading various pages on this forum im getting very worried about it being the gearbox. Instinct is telling me its the clutch slipping. But the fact that it suddenly wont grab at all, and hasnt slowly deteriorated has me worried its not.

So is it the clutch or worse... the gearbox? What do you gus think?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/353145-clutch-or-gearbox/
Share on other sites
Birds Grand Master

Birds

Posted
Posted

If you're not hearing any strange noises coming from the gearbox when the engine free revs in gear, it's most likely clutch slipping.

Have you got a fully functioning 4th gear? If so, then he's blown the layshaft in the gearbox. If not, then I'd say he most likely burnt the clutch and it's now slipping. Clutch contact plates don't go from grip to slip as gradually as you might think...particularly in turbo cars. A worn contact plate will feel the same as new. Your clutch might have been badly worn and his bad driving pushed it over the edge. If it's a button clutch, these don't respond well to slipping and can burn out in a couple thousand km when driven incorrectly. Another possibility is a snapped input shaft, but it's unlikely.

89CAL Grand Master

89CAL

Posted
Posted

Yeah pull the box out and have a look. As said above when they start going they go pretty quick. My stock clutch continued to get worse when I drove like a grandma to conserve it, if your mate was thrashing it then for sure it could have gone much quicker

Don't let people drive it unless you know there not gonna treat it like shit ;)

Nur33 Mentor

Nur33

Posted
Posted

Hey Mate sounds like clutch to me, if it was the gearbox it would have made a hell of a noise if you broke a lay shaft or input. How old is the car/clutch, is it a standard clutch and how much power does your car make, clutches don't last for ever especially if its a standards one in a boosted up ride, i would definitely be looking at the clutch.

Beer Baron Grand Master

Beer Baron

Posted
Posted

clutch toasted. as long as you are not feeling anything weird when selecting gears etc, or noises when you free rev (with car in gear and foot off the clutch pedal) then it's 90% sure to be clutch. if your mate was revving the crap out of the car and had his foot still on the clutch pedal then he was overheating the clutch and has probably damaged it. at this point it doesn't matter too much as regardless of whether it's box or clutch the gearbox has to come out to diagnose/replace whichever is broken. I'm going to go with clutch though.

  • 2 weeks later...
rickr333 Collaborator

rickr333

Posted
Posted

Hey guys thought id post here rather than start a new thread as my problem is similar, what i have is a mild crunch into fourth gear, if I synchronize it ( double clutch ) its good is this gearbox? I would think so but better to ask some people with more extensive knowledgew of hydraulic clutches etc as my experience is 100% cable style

Thanks

Global_Warmer Proficient

Global_Warmer

Posted
Posted

Hey guys thought id post here rather than start a new thread as my problem is similar, what i have is a mild crunch into fourth gear, if I synchronize it ( double clutch ) its good is this gearbox? I would think so but better to ask some people with more extensive knowledgew of hydraulic clutches etc as my experience is 100% cable style

Thanks

I would say its a worn out synchro. My car did the same once the gearbox oil was hot. I recently had the gearbox out of it, so threw in a fresh synchro on 3rd ond 4th and now it drives as good as new!!

Global_Warmer Proficient

Global_Warmer

Posted
Posted

im gettng my clutch done soon, while the gearbox is out, how much would it cost for some new synchros?i

Well I cant say specifically about your vehicle. Mine cost about $1700. New front diff oil and gearbox oil, new synchro's on 3rd and 4th, new spigot bush/bearing and labour.

tricstar Mentor

tricstar

Posted
Posted

im gettng my clutch done soon, while the gearbox is out, how much would it cost for some new synchros?i

unfortunately your in perth so you'll pay through the nose.. cost me $1100 here just to get a box inspected, rang 3 other workshops here and they thought that was about right :rant:

now I pay the $100 each way and send them to Competition Gearboxes, Croydon Vic.. Simon top guy to deal with. I had quite a bit of work done and sent him a few boxes. but from memory I think he said about $800 for syncros, bearings etc

ring around locally and then give him a call, Simon--(03)97233380

tricstar Mentor

tricstar

Posted
Posted

$100.. who did you use for freighting? Lots cheaper than what I have been looking at..

yeah we have a Star Track Express account at work, but I think Simon at Comp. Gearboxes freights a few boxes around and therefore can get a good rate? worth asking whatever shop you are looking at using, they can normally get it cheaper than you..

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • RP1421
      S15 Spec R

      By RP1421 · Posted

      As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • joshuaho96
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) Injectors Replacement

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
    • perry_r33
      R34 GTR Vspec Garage Sale - All must go!

      By perry_r33 · Posted

      Pm sent 
    • Robot
      Skyline v36 350GT sedan hunting on idle

      By Robot · Posted

      Hi,  Just joined the forum so I could share my "fix" of this problem. Might be of use to someone. Had the same hunting at idle issue on my V36 with VQ35HR engine after swapping the engine because the original one got overheated.  While changing the engine I made the mistake of cleaning the throttle bodies and tried all the tricks i could find to do a throttle relearn with no luck. Gave in and took it to a shop and they couldn't sort it. Then took it to my local Nissan dealership and they couldn't get it to idle properly. They said I'd need to replace the throttle bodies and the ecu probably costing more than the car is worth. So I had the idea of replacing the carbon I cleaned out with a thin layer of super glue and it's back to normal idle now. Bit rough but saved the car from the wreckers 🤣
    • GabsReDeal
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) Injectors Replacement

      By GabsReDeal · Posted

      After my last update, I went ahead with cleaning and restoring the entire fuel system. This included removing the tank and cleaning it with the Beyond Balistics solution, power washing it multiple times, drying it thoroughly, rinsing with IPA, drying again with heat gun and compressed air. Also, cleaning out the lines, fuel rail, and replacing the fuel pump with an OEM-style one. During the cleaning process, I replaced several hoses - including the breather hose on the fuel tank, which turned out to be the cause of the earlier fuel leak. This is what the old fuel filter looked like: Fuel tank before cleaning: Dirty Fuel Tank.mp4   Fuel tank after cleaning (some staining remains): Clean Fuel Tank.mp4 Both the OEM 270cc and new DeatschWerks 550cc injectors were cleaned professionally by a shop. Before reassembling everything, I tested the fuel flow by running the pump output into a container at the fuel filter location - flow looked good. I then fitted the new fuel filter and reassembled the rest of the system. Fuel Flow Test.mp4 Test 1 - 550cc injectors Ran the new fuel pump with its supplied diagonal strainer (different from OEM’s flat strainer) and my 550cc injectors using the same resized-injector map I had successfully used before. At first, it idled roughly and stalled when I applied throttle. Checked the spark plugs and found that they were fouled with carbon (likely from the earlier overly rich running when the injectors were clogged). After cleaning the plugs, the car started fine. However, it would only idle for 30–60 seconds before stalling, and while driving it would feel like a “fuel cut” after a few seconds - though it wouldn’t fully stall. Test 2 – Strainer swap Suspecting the diagonal strainer might not be reaching the tank bottom, I swapped it for the original flat strainer and filled the tank with ~45L of fuel. The issue persisted exactly the same. Test 3 – OEM injectors To eliminate tuning variables, I reinstalled the OEM 270cc injectors and reverted to the original map. Cleaned the spark plugs again just in-case. The stalling and “fuel cut” still remained.   At this stage, I suspect an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, caused during the cleaning process. This has led me to look into getting Frenchy’s fuel hanger and replacing the unit entirely. TL;DR: Cleaned and restored the fuel system (tank, lines, rail, pump). Tested 550cc injectors with the same resized-injector map as before, but the car stalls at idle and experiences what feels like “fuel cut” after a few seconds of driving. Swapped back to OEM injectors with original map to rule out tuning, but the issue persists. Now suspecting an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, possibly cause by the cleaning process.  
×
×
  • Create New...