Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hi guys, just replaced the atessa pump and was wondering what fluid is recommended. i know you can run atf style fluids but wanted to know what nissan specifies

as it is $5000 worth of pump.

Nulon ATF(fully synth reccomended)

Nissan Matic J(semi synth - will work fine but above is better)

ok guys, having some issues bleeding the system. have gravity bled down to the bleeder at the pump, i then power the pump up and try to bleed at the box

but not getting any pressure there. Is there a better way to do this?

You need to take it to Nissan and get them to switch the pump and Attessa on with the Consult 3 to bleed it properly. This should be able to be done manually by hooking up 12v directly to the pump and solenoid but no-one has had the courage to try yet. I have the wiring diags here but they are in Japanese...

ok guys, having some issues bleeding the system. have gravity bled down to the bleeder at the pump, i then power the pump up and try to bleed at the box

but not getting any pressure there. Is there a better way to do this?

When you say you power the pump up you mean you have the motor running? There is supposed to be a manual switch in fron to the driver's legs - will try to find the reference,

Here is one:

http://sites.google.com/site/tyndago/gt-rbleedingattesasystem

Can this be the same switch that people are using to run in 2wd?

still not sure if m35 is the same as r32/r33/r34, but if it is, there is a second bleeder near the driveshaft/subframe as well as the gearbox.....try that one first you might have an airlock

Yew should be a pump somewhere around the drivers side on the rear subframe. and on the back of the box.

that plug near the consult plug you short it out to ground?? the pump runs, (confirm with craig) do the pump bleed first, then move on to the rear of the box and do that bleed. then make sure the reservoir is up to the full line with no gap between..

or just pull the abs plug and f**k the 4wd all together :)

i think you just disconnect the plug and the pump runs.....could be wrong. anyway it doesnt in my car atm.

i powered up the pump and solenoid manually and bled the system, now have to see why the pump isnt being activated.

anyone have a wiring diagram of the atessa system?

i think you just disconnect the plug and the pump runs.....could be wrong. anyway it doesnt in my car atm.

i powered up the pump and solenoid manually and bled the system, now have to see why the pump isnt being activated.

anyone have a wiring diagram of the atessa system?

I bleed mine the other day.....all goodthumbsup.gif

As far as wiring goes you might find what you want in here. http://www.m35stagea.info/forum/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=43

The Engine control and ECU pinouts are translated....they might give you a small heads up....Have you had it plugged into a Consult yet?

  • 11 months later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • HFM BM57 has a "bad" knee point, IIRC. It's not the same thing as the later R chassis MC.
    • The ATTESSA is functionally identical to R34; there were a bunch of JDM models that continued ATTESSA including Fuga/Q70, Skyline/Q50, Cima etc as an option. All with Auto only and I think mostly for snow regions. AFAIK there were no AWD VR30DDTT sold in Australia - it is on my to do list to check regs for racing a LHD car in Targa/ATR/AASA/CAMS events because if I can get the auto to work it would be interesting to run a 4wd car The Ecuteck TCM tuning is the same model as their ECU tuning, they already have it for R35 and Dose's favourite, BMW. You buy "points" to allow your computer to be tuned, buy either a bluetooth (phone app) or bluetooth+USB+Key (phone and PC) dongle, and pay for a tune that will be locked to your tuner ( ). You can also access the tuning software yourself but 1. it is mega expensive and 2. these computers have a billion parameters that intersect, so how could you ever spend enough time on it to get a decent result.
    • Or, is it a case of what it is like owning an R series Skyline? NFI what the previous owner has done or fiddled with... Ha ha ha After reading through this thread, I went on a bit of a research about the Q50/Q60. Now I'm quite intrigued by them! Is the AWD in them more like a WRX where it's always AWD, or is it more like the ATTESSA in the GTRs? By the sound of this TCU tuning, this sounds like a case of someone has made some real software for it, and you just need the right piece of hardware, and then you license that specific vehicle/TCU. Or is this a case of the software will be really expensive so only a few tuners have it, and you still have to pay a license per vehicle?
    • By popular demand.. it was a coil. Got my hands on 1 new OEM coil, replaced with the one that made the less noise difference when I unplugged it while the car was running and started the car up. No stutter and the engine light was gone. I guess I’ll buy the other 5 they have lol
    • No, code 21 is very straightforward. It can only be the things described in that diagnostic flow. In fact it has no way of knowing that the spark plug resistance is out of spec.
×
×
  • Create New...