Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I'm looking at purchasing a Kaaz LSD because they are at pretty good prices currently and I need to get more power to the ground (my stock LSD is single legging it all the time now)

I understand the theory of the differences between how the 1.5 and 2 way configurations work but what does this mean in practise?

My car will only be used on the street (not daily) and track days (grip) and I want to make sure I get the right LSD

Some say 2 way is the only way to go...

Others have told me that 2 way is not good for the street (especially in the wet) and that they induce a heap of under steer and you have to completely change your driving style on the track.

Some experienced (weekend) track racers I have spoken to have gone from 2 way back to 1.5 way...

What are your thoughts and experiences guys? 1.5 or 2 way?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/354167-lsd-15-or-2-way/
Share on other sites

2 way - locked under deaccell

1.5 way - partially locked under deaccel

So 2-way & having the rear wheels turn equally going into a corner with it locked up generally will induce understeer.

Once you get over that, it will snap/insta oversteer

I have a 2-way mech locker in my GTS-R... It's kicked the ass out going DOWNHILL in the went when under braking. It's not cool when the rear end is @ 45 degrees downhill.

If you aren't drifting etc, IMO 1.5

2 way is fun if you know how to use em, but very demanding.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/354167-lsd-15-or-2-way/#findComment-5673533
Share on other sites

even if the car is occasionally drifted, but also circuit and street driven, i would still go 1.5

personally i would only go a 2 way for a dedicated drift car (or if 1 came up real cheap;))

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/354167-lsd-15-or-2-way/#findComment-5673568
Share on other sites

+1 for the 1.5way LSD option - DriftPig or not

My Cusco MZ 1.5 in my 34 sedan performs like you would not believe, although the whole rear end has been set up to accomodate this agressive diff.

2 way I think you would cringe each and every time you full lock at low speed, not to mention how much damage it would do to your OEM bushings LOL!

To offset my agressive diff I had to rip out the subframe, install new cradle bushings, solid diff mounts and the driftworks hicas removal kit, now she is very happy, the odd

pink and clunk at full lock low from the cradle/diff, but she puts down very solid and is sooo predictable, beware of the rain haha it is like driving on the ice!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/354167-lsd-15-or-2-way/#findComment-5674030
Share on other sites

Go the 1.5!!!!

Mate had a 2way tomei tech trax in his car, to crazy for street.

Now has a 1.5way and loves it, so much more street friendly and driveable. Still kicks tail out at will if throttle prodded lol.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/354167-lsd-15-or-2-way/#findComment-5674081
Share on other sites

That's cause you drive like a pussy Nick? :) hahaha

Either way though, he has a choice - so get a 1.5

His car sounds relatively stock, he isnt aiming for drifting, so perhaps a not as experienced either... Logical choice really.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/354167-lsd-15-or-2-way/#findComment-5674702
Share on other sites

I have a 2-way but only because TRD diffs only come as 2-ways and they're significantly stronger and cheaper than the competition. I had heard horror stories about the 2-way, especially on the street but if you drive normally you don't even know its there.

On the track I have a bit of trouble, I'm still in the habit of releasing the throttle when the car gets a bit out of hand so the rear settles down but with a 2-way it just gets worse! pinch.gif

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/354167-lsd-15-or-2-way/#findComment-5674742
Share on other sites

Re-shimming the stock diff is just an exercise in turd polishing. Anyone that knows anything about diffs will confirm that for you.

Viscous LSDs are not the real deal and even when new do not provide the response or locking capabilities of a mechanical LSD, after 100k+km's and a few laps of Sandown the stocker is 100% useless!

The car is currently fairly stock (195rwkw) but won't be staying like that for long... unlike most I am taking the sensible approach and doing the cooling, clutch, diff, brakes and suspension before gunning for more kw. I have a Nistune Z32 ECU and AFM waiting to be installed and are currently looking at turbo and injector upgrades.

I have a bit a track experience with this car and my biggest frustration is not being able to get the power to the ground through my single-legging diff!

Even then I am still smoking M3's, Lotus Elise etc as well as many professionally prep'ed race cars !

I do appreciate all your comments and discussion guys - keep 'em coming!

Edited by Checkbuzz
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/354167-lsd-15-or-2-way/#findComment-5675235
Share on other sites

That's cause you drive like a pussy Nick? :) hahaha

nah not my driving... that shit only happens in old shoeboxes, not state of the art 33's :whistling: lol

I like it when the rear locks a bit when you jump off the throttle, helps to get the nose turned in... lift off oversteer is good... when you go in too hot with that heavy RB in the nose it will want to push wide, jump off the gas with a 2 way and it will slide the ass a little and help you kill the understeer... then jump back on the gas and hold the rear out a fraction as you power out :cheers:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/354167-lsd-15-or-2-way/#findComment-5675266
Share on other sites

dear god you guys are being overly dramatic... I had a Cusco 2 way in my daily driven GTSt and it was fine... never did anything like what happened to Ash

+1

Nismo GT 2way lsd in my Gts-t was daily drive and no issue even in the wet. My old man even drove it alot with no issue

Also Car is alot more easier to control on the track i prefer 2way, even for gripping

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/354167-lsd-15-or-2-way/#findComment-5675579
Share on other sites

I went for the Nismo Pro GT TT 1.5 way from Hi Octane Racing.

Cost was $1620.

Love the predictability after the stock Viscous with 300 rwkw +.

Single spun so hard once almost flipped it.

I can't say from experience but the Nismo is supposed to be the smoothest of them all plus it has initial torque adjustability. Low, Med, High . Factory setting is medium.

Medium was too tight for me, so I had it adjusted down to low.

No difference in immediate lock, just comfortably looser on cornering.

Plus, adding life to the diff.

As it loosens in time, just have it set up a level to restore tightness.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/354167-lsd-15-or-2-way/#findComment-5675645
Share on other sites

Re-shimming the stock diff is just an exercise in turd polishing. Anyone that knows anything about diffs will confirm that for you.

You actually couldn't be more wrong.

Longnose R200 in a HR31 is a 2-way mech locker, just very loose.

Few places and shims later, it's exactly the same as the Nismo item, or better if you customise it up a bit.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/354167-lsd-15-or-2-way/#findComment-5675682
Share on other sites

what ever happened to the old skool diff description???? where you had a 50,60,70% lockup diff???? now its all 1, 1.5 or 2 way......... what do they equate to in percentages???

i remember the best was always a 70% lsd, perfect for street and perfect for a bit of track.

also ive been driving with a 2way in both a NA r34 and a rb26 r34, same car just engine replaced, the NA was easier to drive with a 2way cause it had easier torque down low to pull it out of very slow u turn corners, the rb26 with its giant turbo has absolutely no guts below 4.5k rpm, so makes it a bit harder. but on the road ive never had any lockup in the rear when going downhill in the wet, only in the stock 1way one when i had bold as f*k tyres and i shifted down hitting 4k-rpm

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/354167-lsd-15-or-2-way/#findComment-5676024
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • So, I started this repair and got as far as "fixing" the holes with some fibreglass. God all those years working on boats came back quickly. I decided I'd reach out to some rust guys just to see what they would say about it. I came across a guy about 40 mins away and went to see him. He said the windscreen needs to come out, that there might be some more bits around the windscreen and he'd quote them at the time. But his quote was $300 to remove and replace windscreen and $3k for the damage he can see. He said he could respray the roof for $1200 and the bonnet for another $800 (somebody has previously rattle canned it, its horrendous). This is $5300 + any small additional bits. It's a lot, I get that and the name of one of my fave youtube channels 'Not Economically Viable' comes to mind.  I'm not being financially rational, but I've taken him up on the quote. He's opening a new shop in November with more room, so we're waiting for that. I'll leave the currently missing headliner out until then. I'm looking forward to it being fixed and having the paint looking nice again (lots of clear coat issues on the roof too). / flame suit on.
    • Oh and some up-and-comings; New rear drivers wheel bearing. I'll do that this weekend while the diff is out. The car is already up and the d/c axles and missing exhaust will help with space. This is the last bearing for me to do and I've been dragging my feet on it. I also have some new EBC blue stuff pads for the car and some new brake fluid. I haven't ever flushed the fluid in this car and looking forward to it. I have 600 degree fluid to put in. Not exactly "race fluid" but better than the typical stuff I have been using.
    • A proper clutch/plate type mechanical diff with quite a lot of pre-load and high locking % is better for drifting. Much more consistent in its behaviour. A helical can be annoyingly vague and inconsistent in how it responds under the sorts of abuse found in drifting.
    • Some updates here. I pulled the entire interior out, minus some trim to respray the seats with Colourlock dye. It turned out really nice though I accidentally let the dog in the car after and she scratched up the front seat.  This is what it looked like before, the colour was just washing out everywhere but thankfully the leather was in good nic. Then after the respray   And after the bloody dog jumped in The headliner is out waiting to be retrimmed, but it will stay out now until Nov - see why below. I replaced the stereo/headunit with a period-styled Android headunit. I have no after pics, but I'll get some. This is because of the missing pixels. I tried to fix this twice with replacement ribbon cables but couldn't. Also the bluetooth interface I'd bought for this was crap. Then there's the rusty roof. Pics and info in this other thread. I have decided to get this repaired professionally, but I'll update that thread. This is why the headliner will stay out for now. I'll be getting the roof and bonnet resprayed at the same time the rust is fixed. I also had an interesting issue with my drivers door lock.  For a small period I was having issues getting any 12v power to the car - I mean *any*. It would have no dash lights, nothing. It happened while I was at the shops and I couldn't get in the car. So, we had 2 problems. The most pressing here is that I was locked out. I have only a single physical key hole on the car, the drivers door and no amount of turning would unlock the car. Surely it doesn't need power for this? The second issue is why am I losing all power periodically, The battery isn't dead, its almost like the battery isn't even there. Two issues that were surprisingly easy to fix. You fellow BMW over-engineering lovers will appreciate this. The lock in the door has 5 states; mechanical lock, electric lock, neutral, electric unlock, mechanical unlock achieved at -90 degrees, -45 degrees, 0 degrees, 45 degrees and 90 degrees. Although, the unlock is towards the front of the car, so opposite for LHD countries. Sticking the key in and turning 45 left or right is what is used 99% of the time. It activates the central locking etc. 90 degrees is for dead battery access and, obvs, only un/locks the one door. But because the mechanical lock is never used and is 27 years old, it seizes up. I was totally unable to turn the key far enough to get to the mechanical unlock (At the time of locking myself out, I didn't even know this was a thing). I eventually did it with some vicegrips and teflon spray.  I made a quick vid for other E39 peeps.   The battery issue is totally new to me also - It wasn't making sufficient contact between the post and the terminal. The terminal was bolted on tight, but the car wouldn't have power. After checking the battery with my multimeter I accidentally contacted the terminal and the battery post and the car got power. The battery was only a few years old and in good condition. I cleaned the post and the terminal with a wire brush, bolted it back on tight and never had the issue again. I'm still surprised that despite having solid contact it didn't work. Also, the car was getting Warragamba sized pools of water in the back when it rained. My initial concern was another rust problem. But when I went out on Weds while it was raining and while I had no headliner in I could see a steady stream of water coming through the roof mounted aerial. As this aerial is for the (now removed) car phone I pulled it out and whacked a blanking grommet in the hole. It seems fine now. I'm thinking I might get the hole permanently filled when the rust is fixed. Moving forward and things in progress; The tailgate needs some attention. I have taken all the trim off to clean it all and address some small rust spots. I have partially done all of this but I'll finish it up hopefully this weekend. As all the trim are now entirely devoid of trim clips I have bought a heap of strong velcro and I'm hoping it does a good enough job as any of this trim in good condition is super expensive and usually in Europe as we dont have many of the wagons here. Suspension and brakes!!! This is exciting. In the front; New control arms New sway bar links New lower Eibach springs (the only modification I'm planning on this car) M Sport shocks (these came with the car and will replace the longer shocks in the car) New top mounts Used 540i calipers (stock brakes suck!) New 540i disks and pads (22x296 mm for 528 and 30x334 mm for 540i) New front wheel bearings (thank all that is holy for bolt on bearings!) Annnnd in the back; New control arms New sway bar links Adjustable air suspension arms (fool the car into what the current height is so the self levelling suspension can match the new front ride height) New ball joints I'll also be doing a brake fluid flush while I'm in there. I'm planning on switching the car over to the 16's that came with it so I can clean up and respray the M Sport 17's. They've lost a lot of colour over the years and have some gutter rash. None of this will start until the E90 is back.
    • You mean you will regret it for drifting duties? I don't quite follow.
×
×
  • Create New...