Jump to content
SAU Community

Valve Guides

marksuxass

By marksuxass,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

r33_racer Grand Master

r33_racer

Posted
Posted

You can use 2P cast iron round bar as a good replacement material to make guides. Weve also made some guides from phosphur bronze which were currently using. However, the last set which was made by another machine shop wore out extremely fast like Daniel is saying.

Its weird how in some engines they wear out quicker then normal. Our midget engine uses phosphur bronze guides and its a push rod engine that revs to 8500rpm and has been racing for two seasons with no valve guide wear and being push rod its subject to more valve side loads then an over head cam valve....its my understanding that virtually all speedway engines run bronze valve guides and are mostly push rod. Our mates engine has run 4 years with bronze guides with minimal wear.

Weird!

bigmikespec Veteran

bigmikespec

Posted
Posted

Yes it is wierd, I am sure clearnaces between the stem and the guide would play a big part in it too. Just doing some reading I would rather use a bronze type guide for its heat transfer properties but not if they are wearing out quickly!

I asked Ferrea again about the seats but this is what they said about the guides. "a good manganese bronze or a copper bronze mix"

  • 9 months later...
bigmikespec Veteran

bigmikespec

Posted
Posted

Ok, digging up and old thread... going with a bronze manganese valve guide. How have guys gone using Supertech valve guides? Good product? Any issues?

Alternately may get NITTO valve guides but I cannot justify the price difference unless there is a good reason!

  • 4 years later...
MJTru Mentor

MJTru

Posted
Posted

Ok, digging up and old thread... going with a bronze manganese valve guide. How have guys gone using Supertech valve guides? Good product? Any issues?

Alternately may get NITTO valve guides but I cannot justify the price difference unless there is a good reason!

Sorry to wake up this old thread. But one of my stock motors rb26 just failed. Well let me start from the beginning. The motor came in a old r32 i had wit about 85k on the clock relatively new, but i know the owner and hes a guy that doesnt change oil on time and so when i got the car the motor had a spun bearing on number 3 cylinder. So i replaced l all the rods pistons with stock ones new rings and bearings new oil pump. The head o did myself and the only thing i didnt check was the guild clearance. Sad. I lap them myself as I've done this for years and all work well. Shim the buckets and all. The motor ran a cheap hoset hx35 wit l all ebay cheap stuff. Stock injectors and power fc.

It lived for 1 year. I was expecting the oil pump collar to fail but after opening it up i found one valve guild fails on the intake side one cylinder number 4 and i can see 4 more guilds have cracked. Its not to bad of a damage, but bad enough for me.

Question can worn giulds lead to them breaking. ??? Can fuel cut cause it.

Im now going to build it with a new head. I just cant get my head around what would cause it to fail. As its my first time experiencing a guide failure.

So you've pulled the head off and checked the guide clearance?

How much were the Nissan ones mate?

I just put brand new Nissan ones in. Pretty cheap.

mico Proficient

mico

Posted
Posted

Standard guides are dodgey and dangerous as, and brittle get rid of them. Ebay sells supertech guides for 264 bucks delivered can't go wrong. My guides leaked for years and I could never find why my car blew smoke but when the guides were removed they came out in pieces ....

mico Proficient

mico

Posted
Posted

Standard guides are dodgey and dangerous as, and brittle get rid of them. Ebay sells supertech guides for 264 bucks delivered can't go wrong. My guides leaked for years and I could never find why my car blew smoke but when the guides were removed they came out in pieces ....

HarrisRacing Proficient

HarrisRacing

Posted
Posted

This is true. 2 of my factory guides had chipped and broken off previously in my R32 (which had Rod knock when I bought it). As a mechanical engineer I see no issue with high strength / hardness aluminum bronzes. Remember not all bronzes are created equal just like not all cast irons are created equal.

BC guides I have used in past builds have had excellent performance for me personally. The mistu 4g63 as well as the Toyota 3sgte engines i built for my past racecars are both still living healthy lives after many seasons of racing. I would really have to spec an alloy for me to send the job to just any machine shop.

A bronze is an alloy of copper and other metals, most often tin, but also aluminium and silicon.

Aluminium bronzes are alloys of copper and aluminium. The content of aluminium ranges mostly between 5-11%. Iron, nickel, manganese and silicon are sometimes added. They have higher strength and corrosion resistance than other bronzes, especially in marine environment, and have low reactivity to sulfur compounds. Aluminium forms a thin passivation layer on the surface of the metal.

About BC guides:

RB26 VALVE GUIDES

BC premium valves guides are made from Manganese Silicon Aluminum Bronze alloy and CNC machined to exacting tolerances. BC guides are resistant to cracking and corrosion, while reducing friction and insures high lubrication even at elevated engine temperatures and rpm's. The perfect replacement to worn or damaged guides and 100% compatible with BC's lineup of stainless steel valves.

MJTru Mentor

MJTru

Posted
Posted

This is true. 2 of my factory guides had chipped and broken off previously in my R32 (which had Rod knock when I bought it). As a mechanical engineer I see no issue with high strength / hardness aluminum bronzes. Remember not all bronzes are created equal just like not all cast irons are created equal.

BC guides I have used in past builds have had excellent performance for me personally. The mistu 4g63 as well as the Toyota 3sgte engines i built for my past racecars are both still living healthy lives after many seasons of racing. I would really have to spec an alloy for me to send the job to just any machine shop.

A bronze is an alloy of copper and other metals, most often tin, but also aluminium and silicon.

Aluminium bronzes are alloys of copper and aluminium. The content of aluminium ranges mostly between 5-11%. Iron, nickel, manganese and silicon are sometimes added. They have higher strength and corrosion resistance than other bronzes, especially in marine environment, and have low reactivity to sulfur compounds. Aluminium forms a thin passivation layer on the surface of the metal.

About BC guides:

RB26 VALVE GUIDES

BC premium valves guides are made from Manganese Silicon Aluminum Bronze alloy and CNC machined to exacting tolerances. BC guides are resistant to cracking and corrosion, while reducing friction and insures high lubrication even at elevated engine temperatures and rpm's. The perfect replacement to worn or damaged guides and 100% compatible with BC's lineup of stainless steel valves.

Here is a question for you guys. I have a big build right now that i used a brand new cylinder head from nissan for. (NOT THIS ONE) But i didnt change the guides as the head was new. Here is the question do you guys know if the older oem heads and the newer one are the same guide wise. Did nissan upgrade the newer made heads with better guides than the older stuff. I would figure as time goes by the stuff would get better.

Also can you provide the part number for BC valve guides for rb26. I have a strong feeling im going to pull the new motor apart as i hate when guides fail, they do lots of damage.. i will also search for the bc part number im just wonder if yours and what i find will line up. Good info. Hats off to you mate.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • sunsetR33
      Unpeeling the Orange

      By sunsetR33 · Posted

      Update 3: Hi all It's been a while. Quite a lot of things happened in the meantime, among other things the car is (almost) back together and ready to be started again. Things that I fixed or changed: Full turbo removal, fitting back the OEM turbo oil hardlines. Had to do quite a bit of research and parts shopping to get every last piece that I need and make it work with the GT2860 turbos, but it does work and is not hard to do. Proves that the previous owner(s) just did not want to. While I was there I set the preload for the wastegates to 0,9bar to hopefully make it easier for the tuner to hit the 370hp I need for the legal inspections that will follow later on. Boost can always go up if necessary. Fitted a AN10 line from the catch can to the intake hose to make the catchcan and hopefully the cam covers a slight vacuum to have less restrictive oil returns from the head and not have mud build up as harshly in the lines and catch can. Removed the entire front interior just shy of the dashboard itself to clean up some of the absolutely horrendous wiring, (hopefully) fix the bumpy tacho and put in LED bulbs while I was there. Also put in bulbs where there was none before, like the airbag one. I also used that chance to remove the LED rpm gauge on the steering column, which was also wired in absolute horror show fashion. Moved the 4in1 Prosport gauge from sitting in front of the OEM oil pressure gauge to the center console vents, I used a 3D printed vent piece to hold that gauge there. The HKB steering wheel boss was likely on incorrectly as I sometimes noticed the indicator reset being uneven for left vs. right. In the meantime also installed an airbag delete resistor, as one should. Installed Cube Speed premium short shifter. Feels pretty nice, hope it'll work great too when I actually get to drive. Also put on a fancy Dragon Ball shift knob, cause why not. My buddy was kind enough to weld the rust hole in the back, it was basically rusted through in the lowermost corner of the passenger side trunk area where the wheel arch, trunk panel and rear quarter all meet. Obviously there is still a lot of crustiness in various areas but as long as it's not rusted out I'll just treat and isolate the corrosion and pretend it's not there. Also had to put down a new ground wire for the rear subframe as the original one was BARELY there. Probably a bit controversial depending on who you ask about this... but I ended up just covering the crack in the side of the engine block, the one above the oil feed, with JB Weld. I used a generous amount and roughed up the whole area with a Dremel before, so I hope this will hold the coolant where it should be for the foreseeable future. Did a cam cover gasket job as the half moons were a bit leaky, and there too one could see the people who worked on this car before me were absolute tools. The same half moons were probably used like 3 times without even cleaning the old RTV off. Dremeled out the inside of the flange where the turbine housing mates onto the exhaust manifolds so the diameter matches, as the OEM exhaust manifolds are even narrower than the turbine housings as we all know. Even if this doesn't do much, I had them out anyways, so can't harm. Ideally one would port-match both the turbo and the manifold to the gasket size but I really didn't feel up to disassembling the turbine housings. Wrapped turbo outlet dumps in heat wrap band. Will do the frontpipe again as well as now the oil leak which promted me to tear apart half the engine in the first place is hopefully fixed. Fitted an ATI super damper to get rid of the worn old harmonic balancer. Surely one of the easiest and most worth to do mods. But torquing that ARP bolt to spec was a bitch without being able to lock the flywheel. Did some minor adjustments in the ECU tables to change some things I didn't like, like the launch control that was ALWAYS active. Treated rusty spots and surface corrosion on places I could get to and on many spots under the car, not pretty or ideal but good enough for now. Removed the N1 rear spats and the carbon surrounding for the tailpipe to put them back on with new adhesive as the old one was lifting in many spots, not pretty. Took out the passenger rear lamp housing... what do you know. Amateur work screwed me again here as they were glued in hard and removing it took a lot of force, so I broke one of the housing bolts off. And when removing the adhesive from the chassis the paint came right off too. Thankfully all the damaged area won't be visible later, but whoever did the very limited bodywork on this car needs to have their limbs chopped off piece by piece.   Quite a list if I do say so myself, but a lot of time was spent just discovering new shit that is wrong with the car and finding a solution or parts to fix it. My last problem that I now have the headache of dealing with is that the exhaust studs on the turbo outlets are M10x1.25 threaded, but the previous owner already put on regular M10 nuts so the threads are... weird. I only found this out the hard way. So now I will just try if I can in any way fit the front pipe regardless, if not I'll have to redo the studs with the turbos installed. Lesson learned for the future: Redo ALL studs you put your hands on, especially if they are old and the previous owners were inept maniacs. Thanks for reading if you did, will update when the engine runs again. Hope nothing breaks or leaks and I can do a test drive.
    • Kapr
      What brakes on R34 GTT(Europe)

      By Kapr · Posted

      No those pads are DBA too  but they have colors too. I look at the and imo the green "street" are the best.
    • wizlb
      Who has a Infiniti Q60, Q50 (V37)?

      By wizlb · Posted

      I’m not sure what happened I told them about sonic tunes free OTS tune and the next the I know .. I was booted..   To funny 
    • Kinkstaah
      Starting again

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      Yea - I mean I've seen my fuel pump which is decades old and uh, while I'm not saying this with real knowledge... but I sure get the ick at using anything in the fuel system that produced the state of that pump. Many years ago I went through multiple pumps (and strainers) before I dropped the tank to clean it out with extreme violence. I'm talking the car would do maybe 50km before coming to a halt, which resulted in me cleaning out the filter with some brake cleaner and going on my way. None of my stuff ever looked like what came out of your fuel tank. I don't think I'd be happy with it unless every single component was replaced (or at least checked/cleaned/confirmed to be clean here).
    • GTSBoy
      What brakes on R34 GTT(Europe)

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      I'm not going to recommend an EBC pad. I don't like them. Just about anything else would suit me better. I've been using Intima pads for a while now.
×
×
  • Create New...