Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 390
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

yep makes sense

the guy i work for during uni holidays runs 3 cars in teh AMCA series (like super sedans - Holden 253 v8's on HZ front ends with custum body's)

1 is running methanol and he was saying that it runs a 14:1 comp ratio, whereas the other two are running PULP and are only at 11:1

methanol is a cooler burn allowing a higher comp ratio to make more power (but requiring 3 times the amount of fuel, and massive big fuel lines - try thicker than your thumb, internal diameter about the thickness of your pinky finger!!!)

thats interesting that in that short amount of time it gets to 92 deg

im trying to understand how you run it - is there a radiator at all? or an overflow type bottle with a high pressure radiator cap to increase the boiling point of the water?

Thanks for the replys.

No radiator, the copper head gaskets do not have water jackets. So the heads are just filled with water and connected to a overflow tank to allow for expansion.

Well after alot of work over the last few weeks today it all came together, but unfortunately we will not be racing at jamboree. The block we prepped and filled actually has a massive crack between cylinders 4 and 6 where the drivers side bank meets the valley. This is were the problem originated, unfortunately it was not picked up in testing, it appears that the head stud has tried to pull that section of the block away from the rest of it. Grout filling will hopefully stop this on the next engine. Fortunately i have another block, so it will be prepped and o'ringed and we'll begin changing everything over. Were also going to redesign the supercharger drive system to put less stress on the front of the crank. So we will now be aiming to race at street car shootout in about a months time i think... not sure on exact dates.

ROFL!! haha cheers mate.

Well we tryed fevourishly to weld and devcon the block up just so i could get a run at jambo, but it was cracked in a few more places then we would see without pulling it out of the car and stripping it, luckily due to rain we wouldnt have been able to get a run anyway. the spare block is being cleaned and crack tested this week, then will be sent to have the deck surfaced and o'ring grooves machined. Then it will be simply a case of changing everything over...

  • 2 months later...

Well its been a while, but the car is back together and seems to be running well.. we will be heading out to willowbank tonight for some testing before jamboree this weekend. Ill keep you all posted..

well unfortunately willowbank couldnt get an ambulance on standby so the test n tune was cancelled, so its out to jamboree tomorrow to see what she'll do.... should be interesting

well unfortunately willowbank couldnt get an ambulance on standby so the test n tune was cancelled, so its out to jamboree tomorrow to see what she'll do.... should be interesting

i want a text tomorrow saying "f**ken aye giggidy 9 second pass"

Well MISH!!! convertor came back wrong... its only flaring to 3000 so it bogged terribly off the line managed an 11.6 before giving up... then when putting it back in the trailer we noticed some sort of death rattle comin from somewhere... havent had time to look at it yet....

Somebody say big block chev??

Well still havent looked at it yet, but if it is the engine we will be going with a NA injected 454 simply for simplicity and reliabilty.

Its sad it cant stay nissan but its simply not viable to continue the nissan route on my budget, i think what i have acheived on a virtually standard internals engine is only testiment to how good these engines are, perhaps in the future when money is less of a problem i will continue the R n D with the VH.

Thats a very interesting suggestion u have there....

full of bright ideas dude! put the biggest farken nozzle you got.

shame that it's being such a mish... was so promising!!! any idea what the death rattle is? something loose in the cylinder? :)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Here's the chart for fuel pressure vs. current draw, assuming your base fuel pressure is 3 bar and you run like 0.5bar boost on WOT, you should only momentarily hit 9amps here and there. (Ignore my prev post, I cannot read a chart these days it seems)
    • Those comp test results are not hideous. Whether they are accurate or not (ie, when that comp tester says 140 psi, is the real pressure120, 140 or 160?) is unknown to us. The state of the battery used to crank it over is unknown, etc etc. Many people around here would say that the absolute values and the spread are perfectly fine to just add boost and keep going. I personally would be happier with a narrower spread than that, but even the diff between 125 and 145 is not terrible. That one cylinder at 125 though, has probably copped some damage relative to the others. You should inspect the valves seeing as you've got it open. Do you know how to measure installed ring gaps? That, and an inspection of the rings themselves, is how you will determine whether they need to be replaced. If you're not good to do these things, take the block and the pistons and rings to a shop that is, and ask them for the go/no-go on them. Do the bores need a hone at all? If so, you might well be justified in getting some different pistons in order to get away from the ring supply problem. Whether you're happy to spend a lot more money right now, on more gear, rather than less money, but an amount that looks stupid given that you will only get a handful of rings in exchange for that money, is for you to decide.
    • also possibly backed up to my filler and shat down it! 🤣
    • Ok so i would love some advice here please, i purchased an R33 a few months back and its had a few mods done to the engine, its an RB25det running a Master ECU, 1200cc injectors, bigger turbo, oil cooler, oil filter relocation kit, Spool H-beam rods, acl/ross pistons. When i removed the motor from the vehicle (as its getting a respray) i thought i would compression test it and these are the following results. Cylinder 1-145psi, Cylinder 2-143psi, Cylinder 3-125psi, Cylinder 4-145psi, Cylinder 5-140psi, Cylinder 6-135psi this test was done with the motor on the ground and powering up the starter motor. I dropped the sump and found broken oil squirters on cylinder 3,5 and 6. I was told my rings are probably worn so i stripped the motor completely to get a new set of rings for it. The trouble is no one has these rings anywhere and they have to be custom made by Ross over in the states and will cost about $600+$200 delivery. My question is how can i tell if my rings are at fault and if they are still ok and is this price ok for a set of rings?
    • What sold me on Trailer Park Boys is this scene: Great stuff, just stay clear from the new Netflix production.
×
×
  • Create New...