Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi Phil, nice find. You're a stickler for research and detail!

Please add me to the waitlist for the next group buy. Need an oil cooler bad.

Any idea on the cost for me to get one going solo?

  • Replies 334
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

Would probably be keen on the duct depending on all dimensions & price...

Very nice, how much?

Height and width they are the size of the 19 row oil cooler but no idea on depth.

They are like $70 plus freight.

Hi Phil, nice find. You're a stickler for research and detail!

Please add me to the waitlist for the next group buy. Need an oil cooler bad.

Any idea on the cost for me to get one going solo?

Hahaha yeah I like to make sure what I'm buying is the exact thing I want :P

There are a few people that have messaged me in the last week saying they would really like one ASAP so might do a small order of 5 or something next week after Easter. I'll let you know.

I think I might grab one too if you run this again.

Will run naother one because plenty of people missed out.

As far as I am aware, yes the same filter is used.

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah I've had too many issues with knock off's on the BMW's. I don't want to do a job twice or more because the parts are shit.
    • I read this and thought "ah! I will do this scissor jack on the tow point thing!" I just use my floor/low profile/costco jack and lift the car up by the tow hook itself, then slide jack stands under. Never thought about using scissor into floor jack combo :p
    • Well, my new WMI system took much longer to finalize. I actually missed my dyno appointment last Friday and lost my 150$ deposit. I'll be going back in the next week or two.  To sum it up. I only kept the AEM tank from my old setup. I replaced the AEM pump with a higher flow/pressure ProMeth 30GPH pump. I also swapped over to a 6AN low pressure feed line to the pump from the tank. There's also a pressure switch you cannot see on the pump high pressure line.    This is feeding 6x 200CC direct port nozzles and 1x 500CC Pre Throttle body nozzle. All fittings are Swagelok, because well why not. I also have a 300PSI pressure sensor up front.    I now have my Haltech ECU controlling everything. I start my pump with a basic relay at 5PSI and deadhead it. I then PWM a 3000CC methanol Injector to control flow starting around 10psi. The pressure switch in the trunk, along with my tank level are safeties before I ever get to 10PSI, and then I use my pressure sensor upfront as a secondary safety to cut the WMI and corrections in case the injector blocks or a line ruptures.  Wish me luck on the dyno!    
    • So, I'm back with bad news. There's no jack long enough on this planet that will reach the front subframe. If by some chance there is, it would weigh 200lb's.  I purchased a long reach jack... The damn thing weighted 120lb's and was massive. Didn't even come close, was still short at least a foot. It was a pain, but I brought it back. Next I decided HA! No problem, I'll get an Extra long reach jack. Well, I couldn't lift the box... It must have weighed 160LB's and luckily there was an open box in store. I took measurement and was still nowhere close.  Sadly I've lost hope and have accepted defeat. 
    • Thanks for that tip, niZmO_Man. I think the battery is OK. It's quite a new one, but I'll check. Last time I needed a new battery, everything electronic was fine, except that there wasn't enough current to turn over the starter. I decided to order one of the partial AV system translation CDs from Car Audio Workshop in NZ. That might have some effect, or help me diagnose the date problem. 🤞
×
×
  • Create New...