Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

yeah i was just having a look... found a few on alignment tools and hints and tips... nothing as complete and a walkthrough, but i might try to do that myself when i do this.

i might start up another thread in an hour or so in the maintenance section with what i've found, what i've been told here and with a few q's i still have (like is there any way to top up the gearbox fluid before i remount the GB? when i did it last with a pump a while back it felt like i was wasting a heap of oil trying to pump it up a hose and into the inlet).

from what you guys said as soon as you disconnect the tailshaft its all gonna pour out, so i cant refill it until its reconnected.

yeah i was just having a look... found a few on alignment tools and hints and tips... nothing as complete and a walkthrough, but i might try to do that myself when i do this.

i might start up another thread in an hour or so in the maintenance section with what i've found, what i've been told here and with a few q's i still have (like is there any way to top up the gearbox fluid before i remount the GB? when i did it last with a pump a while back it felt like i was wasting a heap of oil trying to pump it up a hose and into the inlet).

from what you guys said as soon as you disconnect the tailshaft its all gonna pour out, so i cant refill it until its reconnected.

I am almost certain that when you mount the box back up, before you put the shifter into the box, you can actually put a funnel in there and fill it up from there. You just need to make sure the top feed bolt is out of the box so you can get the overflow to come out. Its pretty common to do this on alot of rear wheel drive cars.

And yes, I should have remembered, oil will come running out of the back of the box when you pull the shaft out and it makes a f**king mess when you don't expect it lol.

There is not much to remember really, the reason it cost alot is not because there is alot to do, its just a tedious, pain in the ass kind of job. Complex level is much lower than the frustration level. You really are going to need an air wrench to get that flywheel off. I just tried to get my old one off..... About half a meter breaker bar and I'm grinding knuckles and they wouldn't come loose.

found...

this (but its for a 34 gtt, but i'm thinking the basics are the same... kinda, just have to account for push vs pull)

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/268118-r34-gt-t-clutch-install-guide/

and this... (contains two links to the hints i mentioned above.

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/208087-tips-for-clutch-change-rb25det/

its not a hard thing to do - you will figure it all out as you go.

its just the little things like getting the flywheel bolts on and off without a rattle gun that will do your head in - easy if you know how, its a little hard to explain.

the few things that make it 100x easier to get it all on/off are the following:

1. take the exhaust off at the cat - you'll need it disconnected because you need to tilt the engine backwards.

2. loosen the engine mount bolts to the end of the thread.

3. get a regular car jack and jack up the front of the motor at the front of the sump AFTER you've taken the tail shaft off, disconnected exhaust and intercooler piping that moves with the motor - this makes it easy to reach the top bolts on the bell housing with a long extension. this also helps when pulling the box out, what i do is get my trolley jack, pull it out while ive got super clamps on the handle so i can turn it while under the car. the box drops to a height where you can kind of 'roll' it onto the ground. make sure you remove the jack thats tilting the motor before you're ready to fit the tail shaft back on.

4. i'll try explain how to loosen/tighten the flywheel bolts without a rattle gun...

if you put the lower left bell housing bolt on, you can get enough leverage to put a BIG flat head screw driver into the flywheel teeth to stop it turning. you'll figure it out once you get under there.. it has to wedge between the chassis and that bell housing bolt to stop it from turning - next clutch i do i'll take a pic. with a breaker bar you'll easily get to the required torques.

p.s. buy a nissan input shaft from any gearbox place - im pretty sure they're all the same.

I used this to undo the flywheel/pressure plate bolts

http://www.kcimports.com.au/item.php?i=31

At first I had my doubts that it would do anything, but after 2 snapped bolts due to the operator tightening them instead of loosening I was proven wrong :laugh:

Yeah cass that guy was a f**king moron :whistling:

For undoing the rest of the flywheel bolts and tightening them i just used a screwdriver that sat in a tooth and jammed against the transmission tunnel.. sounds dodgey but its not that bad when u actually see it..

Simon if it wasnt such a dirty job and u didnt live so far away i would come give you a hand as ive done it like 5 times now..

if you have any questions just PM me or if u still have my number send me a txt

Does that mean if you get a clutch replaced then gear oil also gets replaced?

Its probable that the fluid will leak out the rear of the box so yeah you may as well do it while you're there and have everything going back on the car.

Yay I pickup my clutch today!

I got quoted over $700 for a change on my r34 once.

$700 for a stock clutch? I paid $850 for Exedy Heavy Duty clutch/pressure plate/ Thrust bearing installed, flushed brakes, topped up all fluid levels (I know these arn't any big deal but still...) This was through a company with GST tax invoice. I'm sure you could still find cheaper if you looked but I was in a hurry. I definately wouldn't pay $700 for the standard Nissan one though. I was quoted about $450-$500 for the stock Nissan one installed by the same guys in Sydney. I really wasn't impressed with the stock nissan one and then I was only pushing 200rwkw and it couldn't handle that.

I got all my parts today for the clutch and its ready to go on but until I fix some of these other f**king noises from my engine bay, I'm not going to add any parts yet...

I payed $400 for a complete Carbotic 5 puk clutch kit(all the little shit as standard).

$700 for a stock clutch? I paid $850 for Exedy Heavy Duty clutch/pressure plate/ Thrust bearing installed, flushed brakes, topped up all fluid levels (I know these arn't any big deal but still...) This was through a company with GST tax invoice. I'm sure you could still find cheaper if you looked but I was in a hurry. I definately wouldn't pay $700 for the standard Nissan one though. I was quoted about $450-$500 for the stock Nissan one installed by the same guys in Sydney. I really wasn't impressed with the stock nissan one and then I was only pushing 200rwkw and it couldn't handle that.

That quote was 700 for labour. Needless to say I went elsewhere, I think they were confused and honestly just didn't want the business.

What car was that on, because Exedy HD clutch kits for gtr's and r34 gtt's are much more expensive than gt's, gts's and gtst's ($500 difference currently at kudos). That's there the big cost comes in for r34's. There is also barely any difference in price between the standard clutch replacement (which is actually made by Exedy), and the Exedy HD clutches (~$100), the differences between the two are mainly lifetime and stress on the gearbox.

Also got to remember that the local mechanic down the road who's only really worked on falcodores and camrys will take a lot longer to do the job than a performance mechanic.

That quote was 700 for labour. Needless to say I went elsewhere, I think they were confused and honestly just didn't want the business.

What car was that on, because Exedy HD clutch kits for gtr's and r34 gtt's are much more expensive than gt's, gts's and gtst's ($500 difference currently at kudos). That's there the big cost comes in for r34's. There is also barely any difference in price between the standard clutch replacement (which is actually made by Exedy), and the Exedy HD clutches (~$100), the differences between the two are mainly lifetime and stress on the gearbox.

Also got to remember that the local mechanic down the road who's only really worked on falcodores and camrys will take a lot longer to do the job than a performance mechanic.

The OP was talking about a series 2 R33, so talking about R34 gtr clutches don't really help the OP lol.

Nissan OEM and the standard exedy clutch are similar and price is similar. The HD when I bought it a while back was meant to have off memory 25% stronger clamping over stock (could be marketing ploy but I have never had it slip where as the stock one would slip a long time before it was due) Done 60 000km on the exedy HD so far so even if the organic compound of the clutch is the same as a stock one, maybe the extra clamping capacity that stops it from slipping also prolongs the life of the clutch as sliping wares a clutch faster?

With a mildy modded car i'd definately get the HD from my experience and for value for money, for a stock car the stock clutch is fine.

I'm used to paying anywhere from $4k - $12k for a clutch installed on some of my other cars, so for me $800 ish installed for my R33 is a steal. Alternatively I can swap the R33 for a clutch on one of the other cars???:rofl2:

What the hell do you drive to cost that much to change a clutch lol.

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/183745-supercar-spotted-thread/page__st__820

I change cars often, been with these for a while now (untill my next order comes through at the end of the year)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • So stock ECU does not like anything above 10 psi?  That Nistune one is just for "try" if it will be any different, I know it need to be tune for that. I know but YOU may know about these problem but i/we dont. They few little Skylines here let alone people who know anything about tham so that is why iam asking here  
    • So now we have a radiator with no attachments whatsoever. It lifts up with a particularly tight spot between the drivers side air box mount and the lower radiator outlet, but if you've got this far you will sort that too. This is the lower mounts with the rad out so you can see where the rubber bushes go, it is a straight shot upwards Done! Assembly is the reverse of disassembly, with blood less likely to be shed.
    • Right, onto the second last trick. The Air Con condenser is mounted to the front of the radiator and stays in the car when the radiator is removed. There are 2x 10mm headed self tappers holding the top of the condenser to the radiator, remove those The bottom of the condenser is attached to the radiator with clips. You need to lift the condenser out of those clips and clear (up, then forward). f**ked if  could work out how to do that last bit with the front bumper on. I hope you can, and you share the trick.  Bumper removal probably deserves its own thread one day once I've recovered the will to live, but basically you need to remove the wheels, front inner guard liners (clips and 10mm headed bolts), the self tapper between the guard and the bumper at the rearmost point of the bumper (same as an R32 that bit), any remaining clips at the top/front of the grill, an absolute bastard design with a plate that holds the top of the bumper above the headlight each side (only 1 bolt which is tricky to get to, but the plate catches 2 places on the bumper and must be removed....carefully!) and push clips between the bumper and guard under the headlight. If you've done all that you will be faced with wiring for the fog lights on both sides and in ADM Q50 RS at least, 4 nasty tight plugs on the driver's side for the ADAS stuff. So, the clips at the bottom look like this on drivers side (looking from the front) And on the passenger side (also from the front), you can see this one is already out Clearance on both of these are super tight; the condenser needs to move up but the upper rad support mount prevents that, and the radiator can't move down far because it is (rubber) mounted. Once you achieve the impossible and drop the condenser off those mounts so it does not stop the rad moving, you are good to go
    • OK, next the shroud needs to come off and there are a couple of tricks. Firstly, there is a loom from near the passenger side headlight to the fans, coolant temp sensor etc and there is no plug to undo.  In my case I was OK to leave the shroud on top of the engine so I just undid the passenger side fan plug and about 10 of the clips which gave enough free wire to put it aside. The fan plugs were super tight, the trick I used was a small falt screwdriver to push down on the release tab, then a larger flat screwdriver to lever the plug out of the fan unit....be careful with how much force you apply! If you need to remove the shroud altogether for some reason you will have to deal with all the plugs (tight) and clips (brittle)....good luck. I removed all of the clips and replaced them with cable ties that I will just cut next time. Also, in the Red Sport / 400R at least, the intake heat exchanger reservoir hose is bolted to the shroud in 2 places with 10mm headed bolts; so remove them (the hose stays in the car; no need to undo it at the t fittings down at the radiator lower mount. Once you've dealt with the HX hose and the wiring loom, there are 3x 10mm headed self tappers holding the top of the shroud to the radiator; remove those.   The shroud then lifts out of the bottom mounts where it sits on the radiator, up and onto the engine out of the way. Simples
    • Ok, disregard my “rate them” comment, sorry for my unrealistic input
×
×
  • Create New...