Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

94633b22-e227-4160-89e8-fbd24d1688c2_zps

23e260f9-508f-43bf-a2de-646418b34068_zps

Fark it needs a good clean! Also need to sort out some heat sheilds on the hot side as there is some meltage happening on a few things :blink:

34GTR front end is awesome!

Certainly look tough and love the fact the front guards accomodate such large rims..... I considered it a while back but it hard to do to a GTT and do it right, you really have to do the rear guards etc to make it looked balance and its big $$$, ill just stick with what i have and make it work the best i can :D

Tractor is out of place in those pics.

Suppose they used it to tow all those broken cars out to the carpark?

Haha that is one tractor i am NOT picking on, it has way more bragging rights and power than ill ever have :P

Oh no picks of my blue beast that was on the hoist. Looking good.

And yes you definitely need to sort some sort of heat sheild before SMSP :P

Lol i dont want to have everyone looking at your beast and not mine :P

Yeah i guess it hasnt been punished for prolonged periods other than the dyno so will see how it hold up with the heat i guess!

Lol i dont want to have everyone looking at your beast and not mine :P

Yeah i guess it hasnt been punished for prolonged periods other than the dyno so will see how it hold up with the heat i guess!

Sort it out.

You will melt shit and be put out of the track day otherwise- take it from my experience. Have a look right round teh hot side on the chassis, and cover any loom, pipes, harness, P/S and whatever else you don't want to toast. Mine melted cops tail conduit stuff straight off, started toasting the wiring loom, and I got a misfire. That was with a Beanie on the turbz. High mounts throw heat big time.

Sort it out.

You will melt shit and be put out of the track day otherwise- take it from my experience. Have a look right round teh hot side on the chassis, and cover any loom, pipes, harness, P/S and whatever else you don't want to toast. Mine melted cops tail conduit stuff straight off, started toasting the wiring loom, and I got a misfire. That was with a Beanie on the turbz. High mounts throw heat big time.

What did you use to cover all your looms etc?

Mine has melted all the plastic hose connectors and black sheathing already! You know, coz racecar!

What did you use to cover all your looms etc?

Mine has melted all the plastic hose connectors and black sheathing already! You know, coz racecar!

Dunno - haven't sorted it yet.

At the track Eric put a redbull can over the loom, no shit. Sorted it for the day.

I have a sheet of aluminiumised fibreglassy stuff- thats what I'll probably use, wrap it up. I don't want to cut up one of those nice slip on hose protectors.

I don't want to cut up one of those nice slip on hose protectors.

This is what I did, works fine.

Would have used some sheet, but I had to buy half a meter of the sleeve to do my 10cm turbo oil return pipe, so I had plenty left over. Just sliced it in half, wrapped up my cables, and cable tied it together. No problems thus far, though I don't have a high mount...

Dunno - haven't sorted it yet.

At the track Eric put a redbull can over the loom, no shit. Sorted it for the day.

I have a sheet of aluminiumised fibreglassy stuff- thats what I'll probably use, wrap it up. I don't want to cut up one of those nice slip on hose protectors.

Hmmm well another thing on the To Do list!

This is what I did, works fine.

Would have used some sheet, but I had to buy half a meter of the sleeve to do my 10cm turbo oil return pipe, so I had plenty left over. Just sliced it in half, wrapped up my cables, and cable tied it together. No problems thus far, though I don't have a high mount...

Is there any black heat shield crap i can cut up and use to stay with the whole stealth theme?

I know there are a couple of things that need wrapping!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yup. You can get creative and make a sort of "bracket" with cable ties. Put 2 around the sender with a third passing underneath them strapped down against the sender. Then that third one is able to be passed through some hole at right angles to the orientation of the sender. Or some variation on the theme. Yes.... ummm, with caveats? I mean, the sender is BSP and you would likely have AN stuff on the hose, so yes, there would be the adapter you mention. But the block end will either be 1/8 NPT if that thread is still OK in there, or you can drill and tap it out to 1/4 BSP or NPT and use appropriate adapter there. As it stands, your mention of 1/8 BSPT male seems... wrong for the 1/8 NPT female it has to go into. The hose will be better, because even with the bush, the mass of the sender will be "hanging" off a hard threaded connection and will add some stress/strain to that. It might fail in the future. The hose eliminates almost all such risk - but adds in several more threaded connections to leak from! It really should be tapered, but it looks very long in that photo with no taper visible. If you have it in hand you should be able to see if it tapered or not. There technically is no possibility of a mechanical seal with a parallel male in a parallel female, so it is hard to believe that it is parallel male, but weirder things have happened. Maybe it's meant to seat on some surface when screwed in on the original installation? Anyway, at that thread size, parallel in parallel, with tape and goop, will seal just fine.
    • How do you propose I cable tie this: To something securely? Is it really just a case of finding a couple of holes and ziptying it there so it never goes flying or starts dangling around, more or less? Then run a 1/8 BSP Female to [hose adapter of choice?/AN?] and then the opposing fitting at the bush-into-oil-block end? being the hose-into-realistically likely a 1/8 BSPT male) Is this going to provide any real benefit over using a stainless/steel 1/4 to 1/8 BSPT reducing bush? I am making the assumption the OEM sender is BSPT not BSPP/BSP
    • I fashioned a ramp out of a couple of pieces of 140x35 lumber, to get the bumper up slightly, and then one of these is what I use
    • I wouldn't worry about dissimilar metal corrosion, should you just buy/make a steel replacement. There will be thread tape and sealant compound between the metals. The few little spots where they touch each other will be deep inside the joint, unable to get wet. And the alloy block is much much larger than a small steel fitting, so there is plenty of "sacrificial" capacity there. Any bush you put in there will be dissimilar anyway. Either steel or brass. Maybe stainless. All of them are different to the other parts in the chain. But what I said above still applies.
    • You are all good then, I didn't realise the port was in a part you can (have!) remove. Just pull the broken part out, clean it and the threads should be fine. Yes, the whole point about remote mounting is it takes almost all of the vibration out via the flexible hose. You just need a convenient chassis point and a cable tie or 3.
×
×
  • Create New...