Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Anyone got any idea whats the difference between these 2 other than the cost (standard is around $300 cheaper)? Is it worth the extra if you're just after 300kW or potential 400kW at the wheel? The reason why i've gone with the twin and not single is because of the ocassional launches. Check (if you live in usa): CVS Weekly Ad, or Myer specials. I'm assuming the twin will be bullet proof at that power with launches. One more thing is, the main reason for going with the Nismo is comfort and reliability. If the standard one does the job and is easier on the foot, I would choose that over the competition one. Cheers.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/359853-nismo-coppermix-twinplate-clutch/
Share on other sites

The Nismo coppermix twin is an awesome bit of kit - most of the vic track gtr's run this clutch including mine. Supposedly the competition is rated for higher kw's but I pretty sure the std twin has been used by gtr's in the mid 300kw at the wheels mark.

340rwkw previous - 1.5 years.

365rwkw currently (1 month).

Nismo Coppermix normal here. I've done a silly amount of launches in the last 6 months, works fine and has no issues at all.

Now for the waffle...

It is SOOO much nicer than my OS Racing Twin that i have in the GTS-R having not driven it for 4 or so months... My god it's so hard to drive >_<

Although that said after 15mins i was fine. But sometimes you don't realise just "how much better" some things are.

Only issue is they are not rebuildable like other clutches, although i believe someone is looking into that possiblity.

OS twin rebuild was i think 1400 vs over 2k for a Coppermix. IMO the extra is worth it for a street car

Looks like nobody's got the competition model. The other problem is Nismo doesnt offer warranty for the competition model even though its more expensive and supposed better (471kW for standard and 574 for competition on the datasheet).

Thanks for the feedback guys.

Normal BCNR33 super coppermix; 471kw/640hp, 950kg pressure, 2.08kg lighter than stock C spec version; 574kw/780hp, 1150kg pressure, 2.08kg lighter than stock
Thanks dude. I saw that in the datasheet but I'm more interested in the comfort comparison. The extra power capability is good to have but I wonder if its any harder than the standard clutch. And from the review, most people have the standard one anyway. A bit off the original topic, this is what I've posted on another topic. Any opinion on what to do?
I experience crunching from 3rd to 4th on high rev (e.g. 7000rpm). It does go in but you can hear the crunching noise. However, this only happens on load and never when I shift below 6000rpm. <BR><BR>Another problem which happened ages ago and only once was grinding noise when engaged in reverse gear after a drag day. A quick summary of what happened that day was 3x 6000-7000rpm launches and grinding starts. Drove the car nicely and after that day, the sound went away. Might be something loose from heat expansion? <BR><BR>I know its a million dollar question but if it was you, would you rebuild the gearbox or would you just try using redline? I am planning to change the clutch if that helps making the decision. Rebuild by my mechanic was quoted around 1.5k - 1.8k (everything included except for buying the clutch)

The C spec in my experience is pretty damn close to the same driving wise. Its not like there's the difference of another plate in there.

If the standard one will do for your power, just get that and save the $300.

Before a rebuild of the box, use redline and see if that fixes it. Well, its not a fix, more a band aid until you can be bothered bilding the box

I have the C spec in my car. 400RWKW, has been in the car for the last 6 years. Trackdays, hillclimbs and one DECA plus just flat out disrespect for the thing and it feels no different to the day I got it.

I have the Nismo slave on mine also. Some people swear black and blue that you cannot run the Nismo slave with these clutches..... I have and I wont be changing. Do it, you wont be disapointed!

I've run both the Normal BCNR33 Super Coppermix; 471kw/640hp and now run the C spec and hardly any difference in pedal feel whatsoever.

Just ever so slight more stiffer pedal feel but you can hardly notice the difference. Both feel like the stock clutch very, very easy to drive.

They are a good clutch, but having driven a GT-R with one, I can honestly say I wasn't a fan.

Got back into my own car with OS twin plate .... heaven :wub:

The OS is totally different though. Bites ridiculously hard and has play.

You can feel the coppermix actually giving a bit of "leeway" to the drivetrain even on savage changes, as in it just doesn't bite as hard which for anyone that uses the car moderately often i think is better. You can slip it much easier too where i found OS took a good 500rpm more in the 31 (25box).

Each to their own though. I'll never go back to my OS lol, in RWD it's a pain... with 4WD it'd be too much effort.

I have the C spec in my car. 400RWKW, has been in the car for the last 6 years. Trackdays, hillclimbs and one DECA plus just flat out disrespect for the thing and it feels no different to the day I got it.

I have the Nismo slave on mine also. Some people swear black and blue that you cannot run the Nismo slave with these clutches..... I have and I wont be changing. Do it, you wont be disapointed!

Excellent.

I've run both the Normal BCNR33 Super Coppermix; 471kw/640hp and now run the C spec and hardly any difference in pedal feel whatsoever.

Just ever so slight more stiffer pedal feel but you can hardly notice the difference. Both feel like the stock clutch very, very easy to drive.

Just what I'm after.

l have had os giken and now a copper mix (car is making a over inflated 380rwkw), l would rather the os giken although it is a little heavier to use l find it had more feel and you could ride it more in traffic where the copper mix l find it is either on or off.

I thought its the other way round? Doesnt easy to drive means you can ride the thing?

Thanks guys. I've got the answer I need but I might pay that extra 300 and rebuild the box just to forget about the whole system in the future.

Looks like nobody's got the competition model. The other problem is Nismo doesnt offer warranty for the competition model even though its more expensive and supposed better (471kW for standard and 574 for competition on the datasheet).

Thanks for the feedback guys.

I have the competition model..........................in its box in my cupboard waiting to go into my car :)

I used the normal version in my last R33 GTR and it was brilliant on the street, at the drags, whatever!

The OS is totally different though. Bites ridiculously hard and has play.

You can feel the coppermix actually giving a bit of "leeway" to the drivetrain even on savage changes, as in it just doesn't bite as hard which for anyone that uses the car moderately often i think is better. You can slip it much easier too where i found OS took a good 500rpm more in the 31 (25box).

Each to their own though. I'll never go back to my OS lol, in RWD it's a pain... with 4WD it'd be too much effort.

Fair comment,

the OS admittedly bites very very hard, that redline to 2nd gear snap where you can just hear the "thunk, chirp" sounds brutal.

but honestly I never had any issues even in bumper to bumper traffic, well maybe it was a bit jerky (the higher revs you talked about) but overall I really like my clutch and did not like the nismo at all !

it had a super high friction point eugh.

Also probably should be noted I have a Nismo master cylinder on mine (bigger one) so that makes it more comfortable on the foot, although I don;t really get the people who whinge about having a heavy clutch, unless of course you have a leg injury/sore foot etc.

Had a coppermix single on my 300rwkw build and it was excellent, only probs i had with it was riding it a touch at high revs to save the drive line (didnt really like that):whistling: Though i did perform an 8 grand launch side steping the clutch and it gripped up sweet and went like a rocket

Now chosen to go the coppermix twin plate for my 400rwkw build, should be a strong and streetable clutch....Cant wait to get it on the street!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Clutch is a spec brand, new clutch system,( PP, flywheel, friction disc, etc. pull type) installed 100 miles ago, with no problems.
    • looking for some help and maybe some insight on others experience with a new LSD. R34 GT ran and drove beautifully, but always alot of grip loss due to the open R200 rear end, so I just installed a new 1.5 LSD way into the stock open R200 for a ER34. Simple. Everything seemed right. I test drove for the first time this weekend. as I started to back out the garage the first time slowly with tires straight it sounded and felt like I had a loose or half disconnected drive shaft...that was clucking around loose and shaking entire vehicle, and making it feel like the trans clutch was spontaneously slipping then grabbing very roughly while just letting out pedal slowly. I backed it out went to pull forward with the same noise, shake and slip grab feeling with hesitation, I turned the tires to back out more and then pulled ahead some same thing but worst because of added wheel resistance (which that I expected) puzzled … pulling it back in checking everything over and finding nothing wrong, I tried it the next day. same thing, couldn’t believe how it shook everything again making a terrible noise and making it feel like the trans clutch was slipping and grabbing, but I got it out of garage into the driveway, got it straight, drove forward and then reveres a few times in a straight line everything shaking , causing what felt like clutch slip and grab every time, sounded like right behind front driver tire and I could feel it in the floor board with my feet,... worst right when beginning to let clutch pedal out to engage slightly, shuttering and sounding terrible along the way…I managed to slowly get down the road, babying it the whole way, once I was rolling (out of 1st) seemed to be better and between shifts, then clutch felt closer to normal…not slip/ grab etc., but back down to any stop, straight road or turning, same thing. Made no difference if all tires were straight or if I was turning. All other gauge read out correct. with in 2 miles as planned I reached the empty parking lot and performed the break in procedure that came with lsd, essentially to drive in a figure 8 a bunch.  Did this, binding chattering, and shaking the car the whole way. I drove it back home seemed somewhat normal once I was in straight line and past 10 mph or so, and I know it will “bind” on corners and cause some tires squeal when turning especially from a stop, but when I begin to move it still causes what feels like the trans clutch to slip and jerk badly as well as shaking the entire car, and sounds terrible, that I didn’t expect. I used the fluid they supplied with LSD kit and did the breaking, planning to change fluid as they suggest after breaking, but wondering will it get smoother or less aggressive with use? maybe a 1.5 is just too aggressive for normal road driving?   I have a LSD that I put in my 71 cuda when I restored it, with amazing smooth , quite yet effective results. Different style LSD but that ones a joy to drive. maybe expecting too much from this R200?
    • Join SAU NSW for a flame-grilled feed & flame-spitting cruise! Sunday 17th August 2025 3:30PM Meeting Archies Flame Grille Sylvania Waters 4:45PM Cruise Departure 5:15PM Arrival at Cape Solander Kurnell Meet Location: Archies Flame Grille Final Destination: Cape Solander Kurnell *Disclaimer* There will be a lead and follow car so no one should get lost. If you would like to attend or bring others along please put your name down and a +1 as numbers will be needed prior! This is NOT a race and we will all be adhering to all road rules. If this is what you want please come to one of our many track days. This is an official SAU:NSW event and will be run under a CAMS permit. One of the things that really sets our club apart is our commitment to being true enthusiasts. When on normal roads we strive to maintain good relations with the authorities as well as the public in general. When attending one of Skylines Australia NSW events please try to: • Be aware of surrounding environment and act accordingly. • Drive courteously on the state’s roads as a true enthusiast should. • Understand how important it is to maintain the good name of SAU NSW and thus, treat others accordingly. • Any misbehavior will not be tolerated and you will be asked to leave.
    • Yeah good luck out there! Will be good to see a mighty GTST going harder than the GTRs
    • i will be there 😁
×
×
  • Create New...