Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

marko marko

ill send you a little link with guys running one 044 in tank and making 400kw + and not one or two cars a fair few,

Edited by WARLORD

Here it is from my workshop manual

its got its own little pump & interestingly enough, the core is an Earls item (well, it is an ADM GTR so what would u expect as these were fitted locally before sold)

post-8728-0-72251400-1363468652_thumb.jpg

Edited by Marko R1

Ah, transfer case cooler. I have never seen one of those before, I can't remember if the Gibson cars ran one...

Now I am wondering how hot my transfer case is getting.

hi guys,

curiosity got the better of me so i decided to pull my intank pump out...how did this pump support 365awkw when i had the car tuned back in 2004 (2.6ltr bottom end with sard 700cc & hks gtrs turbos)? how is this possible as it looks like the oem pump to me - can someone pls confirm if this in fact the factory pump for an r32 gtr?

i did have the relay added to the fuel pump harness wiring to increase the voltage but that was it - hmmm

post-8728-0-43811200-1364100633_thumb.jpg

I have now confirmed it is an r32gtr pump but can't find the flow rate on this unit...I'm still baffled /surprised that it supported 365awkw

http://www.nengun.com/nissan/skyline-fuel-pump-bnr32-genuine-217055

Are the surge tanks really nessesary, 2 nights ago I throught to myself I'm going to put a end to all this talk about surge tanks and test my setup.

Got some decent windy roads around my way, they all private of coarse.... So my tank was low, like the light was on and the needle only just on the E white line.

And I was into it, throwing it into the corners, coming out of them sideways foot flat, up too 140+ and back down to 40 around some of the bends...... Not 1 drop of surge, nothing it was like I had a full tank of fuel..... This is 330kw -5's on 98, but still it was a low tank.

I don't see the need for a surge tank in a street/track car.... And for a track car, just go buy a fuel cell.....

Keep it simple guys, less sht goes wrong.

And now I understand why you don't have surge issues Dean...I took the entire fuel pump holding bracket & harness out (which sits in a track at the bottom of the tank) & now I am much more comfortable about running just an intank fuel pump. The OEM system has a surge tank which by my calculations holds just under 1 litre of fuel & this is constantly replenished by the return line which is the black fuel line in the pic with a zip tie on it. The return line runs directly back into the base of the surge tank & obviously if the tank has more than say 10% fuel, the height of the fuel line will also overflow into the surge tank from over the top which is the opening where the fuel pump sits in its cradle.

Verdict? Under car surge tank is coming out & my 'Bugatti Veyron' pump will replace the OEM fuel pump...not much modding required to make this work.

post-8728-0-30993900-1364119772_thumb.jpg

And now I understand why you don't have surge issues Dean...I took the entire fuel pump holding bracket & harness out (which sits in a track at the bottom of the tank) & now I am much more comfortable about running just an intank fuel pump. The OEM system has a surge tank which by my calculations holds just under 1 litre of fuel & this is constantly replenished by the return line which is the black fuel line in the pic with a zip tie on it. The return line runs directly back into the base of the surge tank & obviously if the tank has more than say 10% fuel, the height of the fuel line will also overflow into the surge tank from over the top which is the opening where the fuel pump sits in its cradle.

Verdict? Under car surge tank is coming out & my 'Bugatti Veyron' pump will replace the OEM fuel pump...not much modding required to make this work.

The pierburg should drop in easily & provide all the fuel you should ever need .

Where did you pick up your pierburg from ?

The pierburg should drop in easily & provide all the fuel you should ever need .

Where did you pick up your pierburg from ?

i bought it from efi performance.

i just noticed that the supplied fuel sock doesn't work, the mating diameter is about 5mm too large - where can i source a fuel sock, any ideas?

Just remember, at WOT there is very little fuel being returned to the tank.

Can't EFI supply a sock? If not, I may be able to help you out... :)

thanks :) I've emailed EFI and I'll call them tomorrow. If I have no luck, I'll be in touch

update. i spoke to efi performance today & was advised that all i need to do is run a '-10 push lock hose' between the pump inlet and the filter & job is done :)

i asked about retaining my intank pump & running the pierburg inline without surge tank (under the car)...not a good idea as the pierburg will run my intank dry hence best that i remove the intank pump & run the new pump intank with the removal of my surge tank/044 setup.

they ran a car tuned on e85 making 500whp & didnt hit the limit of the pump (e85 needs approx 30% more flow).

they also ran this pump on multiple cars making over 500kw atw with 98 & have never hit the limit of this pump

Did you have a look at the new walbro 460lph. The specs I've seen says it will flow 5.6l/min @5bar and 13.5v compared to that of the 044 that flows 4.16l/hr @5bar and 13.5v it looks as though it would be great for e85. Can't see why this pump wouldn't be good enough for 500rwkw on pump or 350rwkw on e85.

thanks for sharing - now makes more sense as to how my oem pump supported 365awkw..."Nissan R33 Skyline GT-R stock. This factory Nismo fuel pump was tested to flow 252 lph at 43 psi and 13.5 volts."

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • That sounds like an excellent idea. But total self-sufficiency means exactly that. You have no-one else to blame when your system faults out and you have no power for a week or two while it gets fixed. You'd have to go the whole hog and get a diesel genny and all the switchover gear, to get you through such times. And, despite the fact that over 20 years, my system has been pretty reliable**, I have seen so many inverter explosions (or less dramatic deaths), panel and roof JB fires, and so on, over that time, to know that the stuff is the same as any other bulk Chinese manufactured stuff. The failure rate is well above zero - both on the equipment and on behalf of the meth addled installation labour force. And then..... warranty and means of redress against the supplier you bought the gear from. Best I can tell is that only a handful of solar companies are still around within 5 years of starting their advertising pitch. They disappear and phoenix like crazy. So, as per 1st paragraph, I suspect the only way to is go balls deep and spend maybe 2-3 times as much as you might think, so that you have every base covered. Plus, know and understand your gear intimately, so you can diagnose problems, sort them out yourself, etc, etc. Plus, probably have to consider upgrading various parts as the years pass, to maintain compatibility with newer stuff, performance and reliability, etc, etc. Whereas, remaining attached to the grid has an ongoing cost that keeps going up even if you use bugger all power from it. But it does provide the fallback in case of the worst case with your own gear. You either pay up front or as you go, I suspect.
    • Add more solar panels to the array. Call the electricity company and tell them you're moving out... Live off grid electric wise
    • Hi Jasmine. How's the war going?
    • I'm extremely suspicious of the VPP stuff. Best I can tell, you surrender any and all control of your panels and battery to the VPP, because there's no way that anyone could write a sufficiently useful set of "rules" as to how much you would be willing to let out of your export meter at any given time. If one of your main interests is to have enough in your battery every evening to get you through the night without having to import, you could easily find yourself with nothing in your battery at the end of the day, or part way through the night, and then be paying import pricing instead of paying nothing. I cannot see how this cannot come to pass.
    • majority aftermarket is an10 yes, but majority of OEM is An12 r35 OEM cooler lines at close to an 12, the hard line that car uses is almost 20mm  Porsche OEM is also AN12   i figure, if our power levels are close to 1000hp, then AN12 should be a must if many OEM standard power vehicles use AN12
×
×
  • Create New...