Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Yeppers, some oem pumps are well capable of doing the job. Many z32's making 500+hp on stock pumps, however they are getting old, so a new OEM pump is always recommended :)

That's pretty impressive Dean. Are u running a relay on the factory wiring?

Have u tested the pump to see how much more it has got and what it could potentially support in terms of kw?

It was a full factory setup, factory wiring, like it had never been opened.

I've got twin nismos now so I can't compare....

Why did u upgrade your pump? Making more power or for safety factor?

I think I've hit a wall as I cannot source submersible fuel hose with an ID to accommodate the fuel pump inlet which is 15mm. I tried pirtek, gates, speed flow, earls and purple pig.

Gates stock submersible hose in 2 sizes and these only run up to 9.5mm.

Does anyone have any ideas on the best way to mate my fuel sock to the fuel pump? Fuel pump is a push hose fitting and the fuel sock has a female push fitting with an ID of 24mm. The generic fuel hose does infact work in terms of size for ID and OD, however, the outer skin will disintegrate as it sits in the fuel tank.

If I have no other option, I may run speedflow -10 push hose as EFI Performance suggested this and apparently does not break down in fuel (even though speedflow stated to me that it is not rated for fuel submersion.

When I bought my car the previous owner said it had a bosch 044

Had it tuned running 340rwkw no fuel supple issues what so-ever, even went drags 3 times etc

Upgraded last month to a walbro e85 pump only to find it had a stock pump in the tank lol

When I bought my car the previous owner said it had a bosch 044

Had it tuned running 340rwkw no fuel supple issues what so-ever, even went drags 3 times etc

Upgraded last month to a walbro e85 pump only to find it had a stock pump in the tank lol

Its amazing what flow these OEM pumps can support. I might test mine in a bucket and see how many litres it flows over 1 minute...what is the best way to test this though, direct to the battery?

Marko, just cut off some hose off a fire truck. She'll be right mate ;)

how about some seasoned bong hose? Loool

I want to do back2back flow testing with the OEM pump and pierburg. I reconnected the OEM pump but the trigger switches it off after 5 sec.. can I connect the pump to the battery direct as I want to measure flow into a bucket over a period of 1 minute so that I can calculate LPH.

Update time.

I decided to flow test my OEM pump direct from the battery and was very surprised by the results.

Over a period of 30seconds, it flowed 2.7ltrs which equates to 324LPH.

The pump even ran low and started blowing bubbles as I couldn't fill up the 2 ltr bottle it was sitting in quick enough.

Am I getting a higher voltage / power supply from the battery, rather than the fuel pump harness located in the boot? How can the pump flow at such a rate?

Off the return, that way the fpr will hold it at the correct pressure/restriction. It should be a reasonable indication of the flow as long as there are no other restrictions. Eg. Blocked fuel filter crimped line ect.

  • 2 weeks later...

just wondering

are stock 34GTT pumps enough to use as lift pumps for a surge tanks with two 044s. This is for 350kw+ on e85

or would using the Deatschwerks 300lph as a lift and two 044s be overkill/enough?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • One thing I can tell you is, do it properly the first time. If you encounter unexpected problems just let the car sit for a week or two if you have to get some other parts or figure stuff out.  I'd have said go and use as many OEM parts as possible but since you want to change the turbo later on a custom kit is probably the better choice. Since I have no experience with RB25 just compare parts diagrams and images before buying a line kit and it should be easy to see if it has everything you need. Amayama has very good parts diagrams and part number lists, that is what I used a bunch to figure out what I might need. And don't forget to plan ahead and possibly renew other stuff that's easy to get to while you're in there doing the turbo lines. Happy wrenching
    • Update 4:   Hi all, good news. Engine is running and all the gaskets and seals seem to be working as intended. No leaks so far, even the JB Weld seems to hold. I flushed out the old coolant a few times and put in fresh coolant, not Nissan stuff, I decided to try the Ravenol Protect FL22, they claim it works for a wide variety of JDM cars and the opinions on it by some people were pretty good. And it has the nice poison green color! And man am I glad I bought a coolant system tester earlier this year, vacuum filling works wonders on this engine. I can definitely recommend this to anyone still doing it the old school way. All you need is compressed air supply. Will have to do a small test drive as soon as I can, I removed the gauge cluster again as the tacho needle was still bouncing around a bit but it was much better than before already.  I also found some cracks on all 4 tires inner and outer sidewalls. Apparently these tires should 't be parked on for extended periods or be kept under 0 degrees during storage, which I did not know. Clearly the previous owner didn't look into those details either, he probably bought them just cause they are cool semi-slicks. I'm just wondering how tf I am supposed to reach 30-80 degree tire temperatures on the public road consistenly, these tires were never going to work for my use case. I'll probably order Continental SportContact7 ones as these are the best allround summer tire available right now and I don't think I'll need anything crazier for now. Do let me know if you have experience with various tires and which ones you recommend.
    • You have no idea how many goddamn boxes I received these past three months haha Most have been put to use by now though, luckily
    • Not going to pretend I didn't do a bit of junky work this time around, but mostly due to the fact that some things I am not willing to spend days fixing right now, like wiring. I try to do most things properly the first time around.
    • Regardless of neglect or incompetence, fixing either is tedious and annoying. Most of the neglect on my car is definitely rust. I hope I can at least pass inspections later on and they won't fail the car due to slightly corroded hardlines. I was generous with rust converter and wax and it looks ok, most lines in the rear are hard to see properly anyways.  Definitely will test them though to make sure they don't rupture under pressure, in that case the car isn't going anywhere this year.
×
×
  • Create New...