Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 85
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

So I looked up threaded sleeves for like half an hour and it seems the smallest difference they come in is 4mm. Which makes sense, 2mm is not much room to work with.

Anyway, I sent an email to the company in Germany to see if they could make them in 10mm if we did a group buy. At the end of the day I don't see why it would be a problem for them to make them in 10mm, so we will see what they say.

Will let you guys know.

Also I found out a few of the Nismo gear knobs actually have a 12mm and 10mm hole in them so they fit both shafts, perhaps this was the confusion with some people mentioning a 12mm shaft in a R33.

I wouldn't mind one if it was made in black aluminium, like my Nismo one :D

And as for you Phil... I have a stock gear knob for sale for $30 if you are interested, not in the best condition, but have a better one in better condition for $60 :P

charles..do you know if the standard 34 gtt threads are m10 or m12.. i STILL dont have my car back so cant check it... cheers

charles..do you know if the standard 34 gtt threads are m10 or m12.. i STILL dont have my car back so cant check it... cheers

I'm pretty sure the R33 and R34 have the same thread, so I'd say M10.

I'm pretty sure the R33 and R34 have the same thread, so I'd say M10.

Yes from everything I have seen the 5 speed has a M10 thread and the getrag is a M12.

Hey stupid question but how easy is it going to be to to wire up the led's in the gear knob. Is ther already a power supply near there or can you piggy back onto say the cig lighter or something?

Should be very easy. Basically just an earth and power. The power supply can be used as an ignition so it lights up all the time or off of the headlights. I'm going to do it off of the headlights.

tumblr_l8o5m1F8l51qanmgpo1_500.jpg

ninja.gif

Bahahahahahah that's insane.

I understand Phil, that most gear knobs won't suit the R34 GT-R setup where one needs to lift the collar to access "R".

Any word on these?

So I had a bit of a look into this for you Terry. Am I correct in stating that you should be able to use any gearknob because the actual "lift up collar" for reverse is independent of the gear knob itself? The only difference between our ones and yours is that yours is an M12 instead of the M10 thread (lucky bastard!).

Bahahahahahah that's insane.

:laugh:

Get a Nismo Duracon Gear Knob.

nismo_resin_shiftknobeb.jpg

dsc07155yc1.jpg

It's a hard plastic so won't wear out so easily.

+ I am thinking about one of these for my car, as I don't want to wear out the stock one I have.

You can get a Aluminium one...

409--32865-RN005.jpg

But they can get hot in the summer if the sun shines down on it.

Yeah I don't mind those Duracon Nismo ones.

Either way we shall see what this supplier says and if we can get them in a M10 i'll definetely put up a group buy, or just buy one myself.

They come in 10mm / 12mm.

32865-RN006 = Looks like the part number for White.

32865-RN007 = Looks like the part number for Black.

Suites Nissan 5 / 6 Speeds.

- http://www.visionr.c...=detail&cid=409

Hahahhahahahaha shhhhhh let's not go there :P

Also you homo, can you confirm about the reverse lift up thing in your 6 speed, it isn't actually part of the gear knob hey, it's underneath and therfore you can run whatever gear knob you want on it?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • For fuelling the Haltechs have O2WB fuel controllers. Very useful for helping tuning VE and correcting for *small* mistakes. Of course if your injector/cam/trigger/sensor data is just wrong (or for a GTT which is not a GT) then you will get impossible reactions to things. I am sure you know this already but the reason people don't typically put haltechs (or any Aftermarket ECU) on GT's is because there's practically no real gains to be had - So this knowledge won't be commonplace.
    • Can someone tell me if the cracks seen in the rear sway bar bushings in these photo's is unacceptable from a roadworthy point of view?  
    • Shouldn't need a "base map" for anything other than guidance to ignition tuning. You just need the engine capacity right, the injector size right, and something, almost anything, for a VE map. On an NA engine, fuelling is almost completely a function of load signal & rpm. It should run and drive with a completely flat fuel map. It will be too lean under load, but that's easily fixed. We used to tune all ECUs without any base map. There were no such things (until someone had tuned a near stock engine on one, and then they had a "base map".
    • What did you actually buy/how much did it cost? When I got mine in like.. 2017...? 2019? the aim was to run Torque for gauges via ODB2 and things like Track Addict/Laptimers/Dashcam/Reversecam/Spotify etc. Mine never broke, but I wonder if you've got the same needs (it sounds like it). Cause I liked the idea of being able to do anything with it. That said, yours also cost 3x the cost of what I spent so... food for thought.  
    • For me there is a massive difference in manufacturer or big brand crippled android (Sony, Kenwood etc) vs the sort of thing I've installed here, which is basically just a tablet in DIN form factor with open Android, and the other model of course is mirroring - Android Auto/Carplay. I hate the locked down manufacturer and AA options where they decide what apps I'm allowed to install, including the Launcher but also importantly things like Ecutek (for this car) or Real Dash (Stagea) are not supported. Plus those crippled versions tend to be slower due to both overheads and lower spec hardware. On the other hand, when this breaks I'll likely be in trouble for support....but how is that different to owning an Infiniti anyway
×
×
  • Create New...