Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

The problem with just changing the resistance...

You still have a 15yo AFM that's most than likely going to fail at some point given just about all of them do.

But new ones and you'll never have to worry about it for another 10-15yrs. AFM issues can often being a major pain in the ass.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/362121-nismo-afms/#findComment-5779385
Share on other sites

I got mine done by the same people mate, havent installed them or run them yet so comment on how well they work

the way i saw it was

1. I can either go to the trouble to sell my standard ones, buy second hand z32 ones, screw around with plugs etc

2. Buy genuine nismo ones that are more then $1000 dollars as a pair from memory

Or 3 get them cleaned recalibrated and have them still looking stock and able to bolt straight back up to my apexi intake system... remember though ull need to pay for postage to send your standard ones off and get them sent back

cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/362121-nismo-afms/#findComment-5779694
Share on other sites

2. Buy genuine nismo ones that are more then $1000 dollars as a pair from memory

Closer to $750 exchange rate depending

Sell old AFM's for $150 - ~$600 for brand new, high resolution AFM.

Not a bad deal if you ask me. Especially if one of your recalibrated old AFM dies... You are immediately behind in both cost and downtime for the car as you now can't use a stocker AFM to get you out of trouble

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/362121-nismo-afms/#findComment-5779761
Share on other sites

agree with r31nismoid

airflow meters can fail with age and are crucial for engine management operation

i see no reason to skimp on them when you can buy brand spanker new nismo's off the shelf readily avaiable guaranteed

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/362121-nismo-afms/#findComment-5792983
Share on other sites

Haha well that's not very comforting! Lol. May have to look into genuine nismo meters then because these re-callibrated ones are $275 or $295 each (exchange for old ones) so like you said if you can pick up a pair of genuine nismos for around $750, sell old ones for $200 you're paying the same for brand new genuine really

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/362121-nismo-afms/#findComment-5792993
Share on other sites

Go for the NEW Nismo AFM's, i was trying to put off getting them because of the cost.

But really, you have to see the benefits

1 - they fit up as stock (air box, apexi pods, etc)

2 - they're new, so they should last a good 10-15years at least

3 - they allow so much more flow to be reliably measured

My missus WRX had the engine go in it, and it was because it was running stupidly lean because the AFM wasn't reading properly and leaned the mixtures out. it cost her $7,500 for the engine and she still had to get a new AFM. the AFM was a $250 part and because it was stuffed it caused over $7k damage.

the question i asked myself is, do i really want to skimp and save a couple hundred dollars and still effectively run a 20 year old AFM or go for a brand newie and not risk having any major issues caused by the AFM's

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/362121-nismo-afms/#findComment-5793549
Share on other sites

Would go for ecu with map sensors but want to retain factory airbox etc and only looking to achieve around 300kw atw. Probably cheaper to go something like d-jetro and not worry about afm's but Unfortunatly cops up this way don't take kindly to pods or made up airbox"s etc and an R34 gtr kinda stands out on country roads lol.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/362121-nismo-afms/#findComment-5793761
Share on other sites

You just get drama of a different kind to replace it with.

Nothing isn't without drama.

Like what?

Mine's been on map sensor based ecu's since 2 weeks after I bought it in 2005 and havnt had a problem with map sensors.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/362121-nismo-afms/#findComment-5793789
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Stock ECU (or more accurately stock tune) absolutely refuses to go over 10psi and behaves like you have seen. The Nistune is the same if it is the stock tune. If the Nistune chip has been tuned, the resulting tune could be literally anything for any combination of parts. The Nistune just makes the stock ECU Tunable.
    • So stock ECU does not like anything above 10 psi?  That Nistune one is just for "try" if it will be any different, I know it need to be tune for that. I know but YOU may know about these problem but i/we dont. They few little Skylines here let alone people who know anything about tham so that is why iam asking here  
    • So now we have a radiator with no attachments whatsoever. It lifts up with a particularly tight spot between the drivers side air box mount and the lower radiator outlet, but if you've got this far you will sort that too. This is the lower mounts with the rad out so you can see where the rubber bushes go, it is a straight shot upwards Done! Assembly is the reverse of disassembly, with blood less likely to be shed.
    • Right, onto the second last trick. The Air Con condenser is mounted to the front of the radiator and stays in the car when the radiator is removed. There are 2x 10mm headed self tappers holding the top of the condenser to the radiator, remove those The bottom of the condenser is attached to the radiator with clips. You need to lift the condenser out of those clips and clear (up, then forward). f**ked if  could work out how to do that last bit with the front bumper on. I hope you can, and you share the trick.  Bumper removal probably deserves its own thread one day once I've recovered the will to live, but basically you need to remove the wheels, front inner guard liners (clips and 10mm headed bolts), the self tapper between the guard and the bumper at the rearmost point of the bumper (same as an R32 that bit), any remaining clips at the top/front of the grill, an absolute bastard design with a plate that holds the top of the bumper above the headlight each side (only 1 bolt which is tricky to get to, but the plate catches 2 places on the bumper and must be removed....carefully!) and push clips between the bumper and guard under the headlight. If you've done all that you will be faced with wiring for the fog lights on both sides and in ADM Q50 RS at least, 4 nasty tight plugs on the driver's side for the ADAS stuff. So, the clips at the bottom look like this on drivers side (looking from the front) And on the passenger side (also from the front), you can see this one is already out Clearance on both of these are super tight; the condenser needs to move up but the upper rad support mount prevents that, and the radiator can't move down far because it is (rubber) mounted. Once you achieve the impossible and drop the condenser off those mounts so it does not stop the rad moving, you are good to go
    • OK, next the shroud needs to come off and there are a couple of tricks. Firstly, there is a loom from near the passenger side headlight to the fans, coolant temp sensor etc and there is no plug to undo.  In my case I was OK to leave the shroud on top of the engine so I just undid the passenger side fan plug and about 10 of the clips which gave enough free wire to put it aside. The fan plugs were super tight, the trick I used was a small falt screwdriver to push down on the release tab, then a larger flat screwdriver to lever the plug out of the fan unit....be careful with how much force you apply! If you need to remove the shroud altogether for some reason you will have to deal with all the plugs (tight) and clips (brittle)....good luck. I removed all of the clips and replaced them with cable ties that I will just cut next time. Also, in the Red Sport / 400R at least, the intake heat exchanger reservoir hose is bolted to the shroud in 2 places with 10mm headed bolts; so remove them (the hose stays in the car; no need to undo it at the t fittings down at the radiator lower mount. Once you've dealt with the HX hose and the wiring loom, there are 3x 10mm headed self tappers holding the top of the shroud to the radiator; remove those.   The shroud then lifts out of the bottom mounts where it sits on the radiator, up and onto the engine out of the way. Simples
×
×
  • Create New...