Jump to content
SAU Community
  • Welcome to SAU Community

    Welcome to SAU Community, like most online communities you must register to view or post in our community, but don't worry this is a simple free process that requires minimal information for you to signup. Be apart of SAU Community by signing in or creating an account.

    • Start new topics and reply to others
    • Subscribe to topics and forums to get email updates
    • Get your own profile page, build reputation and make new friends
    • Send personal messages to other members.
    • See fewer ads!

    Consider joining our newsletter for the latest content updates

    Click here to register


Why Did My Yellow Jacket Coil Fail?


SargeRX8
 Share

Recommended Posts

This is not a rant thread, or a thread made of anger. I seek logic and a proper answer.

I had just had a set of yellow jackets fitted into my car. They came in after a new clutch was fitted in so as you may have guessed, yes I have been driving like an old lady with many low down shifts and slow accelerations to bed the clutch in.

Both have been in the car for a week, maybe two tops. Today my car turned into a WRX. The sound of a cylinder not firing immediately caught my attention. After about 5 mins of diagnosis, I pin pointed it down to cylinder 2 and not the cylinder or spark plug but the coil pack. Fitting in my old coil remedied the problem and now Ive sent my request for replacement or a solution.

I'm now wondering as to what could cause such premature failure. Heat? Bad build? Something else? Ive run my coils without the coil cover to let out the excess heat. I have a standard bonnet(no vents) so no water or foreign material could get into it. Physical inspection the coil looks healthy.

Any ideas as to the cause? Could there somehow be insufficient grounding contact? Can I test this with a multimeter and check resistance or something to see if there is break inside the unit?

Edited by SargeRX8
Link to comment
Share on other sites

yeah i'd say it was just unlucky that you got a faulty one. if you bought these off performance-wise, i have no doubt he will sort you out asap.

ive been running yellow jackets for ages now, with no hint of trouble.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

i'd say it failed because it's a yellowjacket ;)

seriously though, have you checked your plugs? driving around like a granny where your tune is super rich can foul them pretty badly...

There is nothing wrong with yellow jackets.

They work as well as split fires and brand new nissan coils.

In fact, my Yellow Jackets withstood more abuse then my split fires did before one melted...

Also, it won't be the plugs if he's swapped the coil packs and it has fixed said issue... ;)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I don't know if this is related but I have just noticed it a couple days ago. Since fitting in the new clutch I literally did not rev the car past 3 - 4krpm for the last 200km of driving. Today I went to give it a little in first gear(after about 40 mins of driving) and the car revved fine to about 2500 then it like, I don't know how to explain it but it felt like the car choked for a half second then drove fine to red line through to second. Its like when you cough something up. Its smooth coughing then the shit comes out and there is a slight turbulence. I don't know if its because I haven't driven the car hard or something related to the coils. Driving at 60km/h and putting it down into second is fine. It only does it on first gear. I don't know if it will do it again in the same drive but I don't push it again if it does that. I thought it may have been the oil but I doub't it, sougi s6000. It didn't really start this until I drove the car like a bitch and installed the coil packs. I'm gonna start gaining weight on my foot again to see if it keeps happening.

My old car used to do it only when cold.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 years later...

Guess it's a common issue, I've just had another one fail.

Might see if performance wise can do anything about it as it's out of warranty. I've already replaced one with a brand new one. However looks a little different in terms of build quality. Maybe shit batch :(

Link to comment
Share on other sites

i've had a single YJ "fail" as well - it wasn't a total failure but after 2 weeks it started breaking up on boost. performance-wise swapped it for me immediately, great service.

considering they're half the price of any other option on the market... it's still a win - even if you are unlucky you know it will get sorted out ASAP.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

A bit of an update, I ended up getting a replacement coil for a pretty good price, considering my set was out of warranty (came with the car & no receipts).

Dealt with Paul from Performance-Wise, good bloke and was pretty understanding and said if others from that batch fail he will still honour that discount he provided.

Now that's customer service! :yes:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share



  • Latest Posts

    • TCU is enroute, should be here on Monday. Have just paid for a transmission locally, they've got to pull it out of the car and should be with me on Friday. Just getting little bits and pieces I need for wiring. Thinking about using a small bulkhead connector to run the transmission wiring through the tunnel as the trans plug is quite big.  So all going well i should have the box dummy fitted up next weekend and start wiring.
    • sure, just PM me your email....
    • Haha likewise, take my shit box for a spin and maybe you'll end up wanting a R33 shit box again lol...  
    • @Jasoncauser looks like a tight technical track, and definitely fun! Let's hope I make it to that day 😎  
    • The springs just lets the valve bleed off pressure/oil and it bypasses the feed gallery and heads back to where the pickup feed is On the LS the oil gets the the bearings...eventually  This vid explains the OEM pump well IRT the pressure release valve and how the bypass works The oil pressure light coming on intamitantly could just be a sticky valve, but, why pull something apart and not put something better in  I believe the low oil pressure light comes on somewhere between 5-10 psi Well will stick a gauge in after the installation to see what difference it makes at hot idle and higher RPM, and by high RPM I mean 6300 RPM.....LOL
×
×
  • Create New...