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What I recon is line it up to 0° so cylinder one is top dead center then jam something between the cam gear teeth to lock them in place. It wouldn't be ready to turn the engine crank, esp if you put it into 4th gear after you line it up. That's what I'm going to do. Line it up, put it in gear, lock it.

Good idea, also, double check it is actually tdc, use a straw or a screw driver....or if you can get one a proper TDC dial gauge, stick it down the #1 plug hole and rotate the motor back and forth a little and watch whatever it is you are using and stop once it doesnt go any higher..

What I recon is line it up to 0° so cylinder one is top dead center then jam something between the cam gear teeth to lock them in place. It wouldn't be ready to turn the engine crank, esp if you put it into 4th gear after you line it up. That's what I'm going to do. Line it up, put it in gear, lock it.

That is correct but make sure it is on the inlet stroke for 0° The crank turns twice for the cams turning once. When you have it lined up mark the old belt on the crank and the cams with the marks on the motor. The Gates belt has marks on it to line up the crank and cams but not sure about any other ones. You can use the old belt to transfer it to the new belt.

Also get new stud, nut and bolt for the tensioners too.

Gates make a kit you can buy. Also as others have suggested change the waterpump at the same time.

When you have it back together take out the spark plugs and turn the motor over using the bolt on the crank to make sure nothing clashes and it lines back up again.

Parts:

http://www.kudosmotorsports.com/catalog/nissan-100000km-service-kit-water-pump-timing-belt-nissan-skyline-r33-gts25t-rb25det-p-558.html

$434 just the parts; and I'd assume roughly $600 for labour (takes a few hours to do, even rushing it). Don't expect too much change for $1k for the full job.

I've got the RB25 manual, and it has step by step instructions on doing it.. i just suck and can't follow them :P

Update, got quoted ~$400 for 100,000 service labour (including swapping water pump).

Just FYI :)

I changed my timing belt without setting it to TDC, I just made sure I didn't move anything until I put the belt back on.

Granted after I put the belt on I made sure the cams and crank lined up with their respective marks :thumbsup:

its a straight forward and simple job, but i had to let out my AC gas and remove the condenser in order to use a rattle gun on the balancer bolt.. There are ways around this but i run no AC now and every car i do it on is the same..

To undo the crank bolt, socket on bolt then turn the engine by hand to set your breaker bar on a solid part of the engine bay (chassis rail, suspension component) and grunt the engine (tap the key for about half a second) and that bolt is undone if not do it a few more times. If you want to bust your a$$ you can put car in higher gear 4th or 5th with handbrake on and that will stop the engine from spinning as well, then undo with breaker bar but that bolt is tight. After covers are off and you can see the marks to align the cam and crank gears up to, turn the engine over, again by hand, with a spanner until marks line up remove and then the replace belt. As mentioned if you mess this up you can really cost yourself some money!!!!! Proceed with caution.

As long as everything lines up, it should be fine. As Aggroman said, so long I don't move anything after its off, it should be good. But I'll stick with my original method of locking things down. 4th gear is what I'm gonna use. That bolt is torqued up about the same as the flywheel bolts. I undone two sets of flywheels so ill use the same technique. I will have a mechanic with me while I do it. Just need to buy my kit now!

What do you mean by 'lock things down' and '4th gear'? The only thing that may move after the belt is off is the one of the camshaft's, the crank won't move unless you turn it. After the belt is replaced its always good practice to turn the engine over (turn the crank twice in this case) by hand, before putting everything back on just to ensure that the marks all line up again takes 30 seconds and can save you thousands.

I think people are suggesting using the starter motor to crack the harmonic balancer bolt because they can't conjure enough strength from their girly arms :P

On both my R31 and R33 I removed this bolt the same way, 4th gear + ratchet + hollow square section for extra leverage. Leaving the car in neutral just spins the engine and placing the car in 1st, 2nd and reverse tend to make the car move forwards and backwards. 4th gear seems to hold the engine well enough to crack the bolt ;)

NOTE: Cassbo may or may not have the girliest arms around...

Yeah, I'm not too keen on using the starter motor to get the nut off. Ive taken every single nut Ive ever undone by breaker bar so Ill stick to this method. As for locking the cams etc, Ive just watched a few videos and people seem to put a plate inbetween the teeth of the cam gears to prevent them turning. Probably not necessary but just as a precaution.

IF something did happen to move out of place, would I feel it when turning the engine by hand? The guide does say you need to turn it by hand to add tension to the spring and just make sure its sitting right. I'm going to get a tube of liquid paper and mark the spots properly just so they are clearly visible.

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