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Size Of Stock Oil Perssure Sensor Thread?

boostn0199
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blk94r33 Mentor

blk94r33

Posted
Posted

npt is predominantly american. it would be bspt.

Yep, British Standard Pipe, weird huh?

Fitted a new oil pressure gauge to my car the other day, had to get a NPT-->BSP adapter, as the NPT thread would screw in and seal, but only by 3-4 threads and I didn't trust it, so checked the thread, and BSP it was...

boostn0199 Grand Master

boostn0199

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Yep, British Standard Pipe, weird huh?

Fitted a new oil pressure gauge to my car the other day, had to get a NPT-->BSP adapter, as the NPT thread would screw in and seal, but only by 3-4 threads and I didn't trust it, so checked the thread, and BSP it was...

Where did you get the adaptor from?

boostn0199 Grand Master

boostn0199

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Any good bearing/hose/hydraulics shop should be able to help you out. Only cost me $5. :thumbsup:

Thanks, rang up enzed and they quoted me 5bux for a steel one. I was thinking of making a Tpeice there and running the oil temp and pressure sensors together but have read some people have had failures in there fittings from vibrations and fatigue so was thinking if not that to run a braided line from there to somewhere where I can secure the Tpeice so it doesnt have much stress on it.

Anyone had any experience with tpeice the sensors?

Duncan Grand Master

Duncan

Posted
Posted

yes, that's how I've done it on my race car. braided line about 300mm from the standard pressure sender to a t piece mounted under the brake master cylinder. Been running for years without leaks and senders are working fine.

the only trick was...I wasn't happy with remote mounting the temp sender as I wasn't sure I would get an accurate reading without flow past it. My temp sender is mounted on the remote filter adapter plate instead

blk94r33 Mentor

blk94r33

Posted
Posted

Thanks, rang up enzed and they quoted me 5bux for a steel one. I was thinking of making a Tpeice there and running the oil temp and pressure sensors together but have read some people have had failures in there fittings from vibrations and fatigue so was thinking if not that to run a braided line from there to somewhere where I can secure the Tpeice so it doesnt have much stress on it.

Anyone had any experience with tpeice the sensors?

That's the problem, the adapter I have only brings the sender out from the block about 10mm, a T-piece style one (was hoping to hook up the factory warning light too) would have worked out about 30mm, that's alot of stress one one fitting given heat, movement of the engine, vibration and the weight of the senders waving about. I imagine if you could brace the top to the block somehow, it might help?

boostn0199 Grand Master

boostn0199

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That's the problem, the adapter I have only brings the sender out from the block about 10mm, a T-piece style one (was hoping to hook up the factory warning light too) would have worked out about 30mm, that's alot of stress one one fitting given heat, movement of the engine, vibration and the weight of the senders waving about. I imagine if you could brace the top to the block somehow, it might help?

If you used the braided line and just suported the Tee somewhere it would be alright but I think Im just going to get my sump bolt modified to have the oil temp sensor in it and run that there and just use the adaptor to put in the new pressure sensor.

Munkyb0y Grand Master

Munkyb0y

Posted
Posted

yes, that's how I've done it on my race car. braided line about 300mm from the standard pressure sender to a t piece mounted under the brake master cylinder. Been running for years without leaks and senders are working fine.

the only trick was...I wasn't happy with remote mounting the temp sender as I wasn't sure I would get an accurate reading without flow past it. My temp sender is mounted on the remote filter adapter plate instead

pics?

Duncan Grand Master

Duncan

Posted
Posted

lol no chance.....it is under the plenum on a gtr.

just imagine a piece of braided line 300mm long with a 1/8npt (or whatever it is) on on end, and a t piece on the other. cable tied to the brake lines above the chasis rail and under the brake booster next to the firewall.

works well...very reliable in a car that spends plenty of time bashing around

  • 6 years later...
89CAL Grand Master

89CAL

Posted
Posted

My answer was serious....

 

Modify the spanner if need be. Find the right one and bend it, cut and weld it to the right angle etc.

 

Otherwise you will have to take something off to get to it as you have suggested. Would it be easier to go from underneath?

 

Im pretty sure i removed a knock sensor from underneath once. Wasnt fun but was doable

 

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