Jump to content
SAU Community

Epic R34 Build, Aka The Silver Bullet!

rb20-into-mr30=
 Share

Recommended Posts

rb20-into-mr30= Collaborator

rb20-into-mr30=

Posted
Posted

Hey fellow SAU siblings, I have recently bought an r34 gtt shell for a time attack weapon.

the shell is in good nick apart from some love needed on the front right corner.

So I am looking for some good idea's for an engine to run in this car, i have thought about doing the rb30-25/26

but rb's are too heavy in the front so i think an ls1 or vh45 or 1uz maybe? with turbo's later on.

also I think a z-tune bodykit will do nicely but am open to ideas for the wheel combo.

pics to be up shortly.

cheers, troypost-39514-0-61131700-1304478143_thumb.jpg

rb20-into-mr30= Collaborator

rb20-into-mr30=

Posted
  • Author
Posted

I am also looking for r34 gtt parts, such as upper control arms for the front, stock shocks front and rear, steering rack, tie rod ends and reo bars for the front and rear.

cheers troy.:thumbsup:

sneakey pete Grand Master

sneakey pete

Posted
Posted

How much heavier are RB's anyway, really? I've heard people say 100kg's more than VQ's, but that sounds like its to much, as if someones measuring a RB with parts attached compared to a stripped VQ, but clarification would be nice.

You could buy a billet Alumium Rb26 if you have lots of spare cash though.

  • 3 weeks later...
rb20-into-mr30= Collaborator

rb20-into-mr30=

Posted
  • Author
Posted

A ls1 engine is 60kg lighter than an rb engine

, so a vq engine would be lighter again.

but there are problems with the vq30dett engine so thats out,:thumbsup:

An rb engine will be overly heavy in the front thats why i would like a v8 to take the chassis balance closer to 50-50

the DLS r34 drift car is a great example

joeyjoejoejuniorshabadoo Grand Master

joeyjoejoejuniorshabadoo

Posted
Posted

I am also looking for r34 gtt parts, such as upper control arms for the front, stock shocks front and rear, steering rack, tie rod ends and reo bars for the front and rear.

cheers troy.:thumbsup:

I would have thought for a time attack build you wouldn't need ANY of those stock parts except the reo and rack

Most definately if you are concerned about engine weight and weight distribution.

Easies and cheapes option is RB

Conversions are very costly in time and money. Unexpected shit always pops up.

Look at a stripped RB motor.... Probably as light as the other options you are looking at anyway

mad082 Grand Master

mad082

Posted
Posted

with all the same amount of peripherals on, the LSx is still a lighter motor since it is an all alloy block, rather than the cast iron block of the skyline. also being a V motor means that it is a shorter motor (only 4 cylinders long, instead of 6) so it can be put further back in the engine bay

  • 1 month later...
rb20-into-mr30= Collaborator

rb20-into-mr30=

Posted
  • Author
Posted

I would have thought for a time attack build you wouldn't need ANY of those stock parts except the reo and rack

Most definately if you are concerned about engine weight and weight distribution.

Easies and cheapes option is RB

Conversions are very costly in time and money. Unexpected shit always pops up.

Look at a stripped RB motor.... Probably as light as the other options you are looking at anyway

I was looking for stock parts so i can get the shell rolling, i have a shopping trolley strapped up front atm :whistling:

as for cheap and easy, the rb would win but i am looking at the weight distribution and low down torque.

and to do a decent rb30/25 would cost more than running a stock ls1 with an after market ecu.

an even chassis balance will help all suspension parts do there job at 100% together with a grunty engine will help with corner exit speeds wich is a big plus in time attack.

not to mention tracion issues.

:cheers:

as it is i will be running the rwd layout so getting the balance as close to 50/50 is important.

rb20-into-mr30= Collaborator

rb20-into-mr30=

Posted
  • Author
Posted

p.s if i run an ls? and turbo it later on i will look into rear mount turbos so no intercooler needed.

but turbo's are not high on the priority list yet, a major weight loss diet will be first as will be body strength mods.

i am looking into carbon z-tune type front gaurds, carbon gtr bonnet,carbon rear boot,f/glass rear gtr gaurds,f/glass body kit and maybe f/glass door skins aswell as lexan windows allround.

stripping the sound deadner and attacking things with a hole saw. hoping for an overall weight of 1100-1200 kgs wet. less would be better.

i have a friend( simon the drift knob) here in sa who has a s14 with an ls? his dry weight is 1000kgs!!! with power around 300 killer wasps atw !!!

:domokun:

  • 2 weeks later...
rb20-into-mr30= Collaborator

rb20-into-mr30=

Posted
  • Author
Posted

OOOOh, if i had the $ for an ls3 that would be the winner, but if i can get an ls1 and 6 speed cheap thats the way to go.

sandman and 045HOW are on the right track :thumbsup:

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • feartherb26
      RB25DE NEO with Haltech ECU

      By feartherb26 · Posted

      If you take the top half of the intake off you can unbolt the flap off the shaft and leave the shaft in there blocking the hole. Then you can remove the little vacuum canister off from under the manifold and get a spare vacuum line to run to the ECU. I can take some photos of it later. Probably best to get the vacuum source to the ECU sorted first though. Mine all worked mint with the base map from the GTT an I've pretty much let the closed loop sort the fueling and took 1 degree out of the whole timing map.
    • Kinkstaah
      RB25DE NEO with Haltech ECU

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      This IS something you also have to configure in Haltech (or at least I did in the past when going from onboard-to-ECU map sensor and an external MAP sensor in haltech land).
    • Murray_Calavera
      RB25DE NEO with Haltech ECU

      By Murray_Calavera · Posted

      I'm hoping it's something as simple as the ECU is looking for an external MAP sensor, but he is trying to use the onboard MAP sensor.
    • Murray_Calavera
      RB25DE NEO with Haltech ECU

      By Murray_Calavera · Posted

      You won't need to do that if your happy to learn to tune it yourself. You 100% do not need to do that. It is not part of the learning process. It's not like driving on track and 'finding the limit by stepping over the limit'. You should not ever accidently blow up an engine and you should have setup the ECU's engine protection to save you from yourself while you are learning anyway. Plenty of us have tuned their own cars, myself included. We still come here for advice/guidance/new ideas etc.  What have you been doing so far to learn how to tune?
    • GTSBoy
      RB25DE NEO with Haltech ECU

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Put the ECU's MAP line in your mouth. Blow as hard as you can. You should be able to see about 10 kPa, maybe 15 kPa positive pressure. Suck on it. You should be able to generate a decent vacuum to about the same level also. Note that this is only ~2 psi either way. If the MAP is reading -5 psi all the time, ignition on, engine running or not, driving around or not, then it is severely f**ked. Also, you SHOULD NOT BE DRIVING IT WITHOUT A LOAD REFERENCE. You will break the engine. Badly.
×
×
  • Create New...