Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys after speaking to Brad at boost today, turns out my safc wont help me as id hoped, so im just putting it out there that ill soon be looking for a pfc or some other decent piggyback/stand alone ecu,

so if you know of or have anything let me know & i can get back to you when it comes time

cheers

Get a z32 ecu (like $50) as it will run the vct or a rb20 ecu and get a rpm window switch to run the vct (it's what I do).

A board is around $400 ish

Install is around $100

Should be all set up for under $650

I like it for my set up.. 300+rwkw rb2530 with a T67

Get a z32 ecu (like $50) as it will run the vct or a rb20 ecu and get a rpm window switch to run the vct (it's what I do).

A board is around $400 ish

Install is around $100

Should be all set up for under $650

I like it for my set up.. 300+rwkw rb2530 with a T67

Get a z32 ecu (like $50) as it will run the vct or a rb20 ecu and get a rpm window switch to run the vct (it's what I do).

A board is around $400 ish

Install is around $100

Should be all set up for under $650

I like it for my set up.. 300+rwkw rb2530 with a T67

you need to add tune cost to that. i know that GT were $1100 base price for complete nistune job.

hmm now that is tempting, i thought they were around $1000-$1200 installed & tuned but $650 sounds much better

650 is only instaled. it wont run like that so you then have to instal it and tow it to a workshop then have them tune it wich will be min $300 so theres almost your 1100 for gt.

im pretty sure boost is cheaper than that but power fcs are cheap and they come with a base map and do all the things you need.

nistune is the cheapest way you will get around it but for the price and added benifits of a power fc it would have to be the next cheapest option.

if you find other cheaper ecus like link you will need to find a tuner that will be happy to tune with it. everyone tunes power fcs.

I'm happy with my Nistune =) very easy to figure out as far as tuning is concerned, and they come with base maps to suit all nissans so they run the same as the std ecu :) all up it was under 700 fitted but i have tuned it myself so saved a lot of money there.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • That's probably OK. That's a face to face compression joint between two surfaces with the clamping load provided by those bolts. So.... it's unlikely that the bolts will end up feeling that load in shear, unless the clamping surfaces are not large enough, bolts not got enough tension on them, etc etc to prevent the two faces from moving wrt each other. Which... I would hope the designers have considered, seeing as it's probably one of the most important things the upright has to do apart from resist collapsing in its own right. But yes, it would definitely be worth asking them what their safety factor on that part of the design was. I tend to think that the casting, being a casting, is not necessarily the strongest bit of material in the world. It's about an inch square, and when you think about the loads that are being put into it, you have to wonder what safety factor the Nissan boys (and every other OEM engineer who has designed all the millions of other uprights that look essentially the same) used to account for defective casting, aging, severe impacts on the wheel, etc etc. 
    • Those bolts would be orders of magnitude stronger that cast aluminium though.  And its mainly clamping force, not shear they are dealing with?
    • Except all that twisting force that is breaking a cast piece, appears to be going through 4 bolts in the picture Johnny posted of the BryPar one...
    • The smart approach is to use the gearbox loom from the manual car. Makes it a lot easier - just plugs into the switches on the box and plugs into the main loom up near the fusebox. Then you only need to deal with bypassing the inhibit switch. The other approach requires you to use the wiring diagram to identify those wires by colour and location, perhaps even indulging in a little multimeter action to trace them end to end to make sure, and then.... you will have the answers you need. The R34 wiring diagram is available on-line (no, I do not have a link to it myself - I would have to do a search if I wasn't able to go to the copy I have at home).
    • Hi, i’m converted my r34 4dr auto to manual but need help with gearbox wiring. There are bunch of wires no idea which one for speedo drive, neutral, reverse can anyone help me. IMG_6860.mov
×
×
  • Create New...