Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys after speaking to Brad at boost today, turns out my safc wont help me as id hoped, so im just putting it out there that ill soon be looking for a pfc or some other decent piggyback/stand alone ecu,

so if you know of or have anything let me know & i can get back to you when it comes time

cheers

Get a z32 ecu (like $50) as it will run the vct or a rb20 ecu and get a rpm window switch to run the vct (it's what I do).

A board is around $400 ish

Install is around $100

Should be all set up for under $650

I like it for my set up.. 300+rwkw rb2530 with a T67

Get a z32 ecu (like $50) as it will run the vct or a rb20 ecu and get a rpm window switch to run the vct (it's what I do).

A board is around $400 ish

Install is around $100

Should be all set up for under $650

I like it for my set up.. 300+rwkw rb2530 with a T67

Get a z32 ecu (like $50) as it will run the vct or a rb20 ecu and get a rpm window switch to run the vct (it's what I do).

A board is around $400 ish

Install is around $100

Should be all set up for under $650

I like it for my set up.. 300+rwkw rb2530 with a T67

you need to add tune cost to that. i know that GT were $1100 base price for complete nistune job.

hmm now that is tempting, i thought they were around $1000-$1200 installed & tuned but $650 sounds much better

650 is only instaled. it wont run like that so you then have to instal it and tow it to a workshop then have them tune it wich will be min $300 so theres almost your 1100 for gt.

im pretty sure boost is cheaper than that but power fcs are cheap and they come with a base map and do all the things you need.

nistune is the cheapest way you will get around it but for the price and added benifits of a power fc it would have to be the next cheapest option.

if you find other cheaper ecus like link you will need to find a tuner that will be happy to tune with it. everyone tunes power fcs.

I'm happy with my Nistune =) very easy to figure out as far as tuning is concerned, and they come with base maps to suit all nissans so they run the same as the std ecu :) all up it was under 700 fitted but i have tuned it myself so saved a lot of money there.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • My idle is set at 950rpm though - Moving the timing around 20 degrees is not really what I'd call a calm idle. That said... neither is chop, by definition. The LS ECU likes to adjust timing to hold idle as opposed to air. It'd work, but generally speaking there'd be a discrepancy in the base idle and the IACV would want to move the timing around anyway to maintain said idle. I think I'm just going to keep the timing steady anyway. Preserve my engine mounts.  My aircon is now officially regassed. As the guy was reversing I noticed my reverse lights do not operate, along with my reverse cam. This is a bit distressing, because 100% of guides talk about which wire to connect to backup cams as "the goes with the [other color] wire". Often when doing conversions. Unfortunately the R34 colour wires aren't documented Unfortunately I had a T56 Magnum gearbox with it's reverse switch, which also isn't documented. Unfortunately there's definitely not documentation for people with both of these in the one car. Unfortunately I forgot. After many hours of this, I have a reverse cam and reverse lights again. The wire going through the trans tunnel to the reverse switch had broken. Upon inspection, it looks like this one wire had about 7 spade terminals and extensions in it.. for reasons I cannot possibly comprehend. I also spent the 750 hours required to clean up the wiring behind my head unit which now looks like this: This is a monumental improvement relative to what used to be there WRT triple gauges, head unit, traction control, wideband controller, and whatever the f**k OEM stuff still exists there in various states of connectivity/needed. Next step is to check in at the Exhaust shop to see/confirm how much clearance I have, to decide what mid mufflers or 'resonators' (which are just straight through, narrower mufflers) I can add and hopefully cut out a lot of exhaust leaks, pinhole, v-band or otherwise. But first step will be to 'take a look' before the next step.
    • Fark the AFM card and Nistune, Haltech Nexus S3, DBW, cruise control, flex fuel, dis dat.  
    • It's most likely the bolt/bush where the cover bolts back wore and allowed cover to move forward.
    • Still haven't put the injectors and R35 AFM in so we can tune the bloody thing for the HG highflow it got mid last year! I think I can forecast the upgrade path to a bigger twin scroll, external gate, Haltech, flex setup, Samsonas, dis dat, etc will be .... a while away!
    • Should have taken that opportunity to slot in a twin scroll turbo setup. Maybe next time.
×
×
  • Create New...