R33 Series 2 Dramas

[riley]

hey all who can help,

ive got a 1996 r33 gts-t series two. i bought it completely stock about a year ago, and im slow trying to make it my new circuit car. ne way i had it dyno'd about a month ago and it seems that im not make anywhere near as much power as i should be. again its pritty much stock. i ran 140.8hp at the rears, ive replaced the fuel pump with a walbro 255, replaced the fuel filter, replaced the fuel pressure reg with a turbosmart fpr 800. new splitfire coilpacks, iridium sparkies. 3" catback exhaust. also replaced the o2 sensor. i thought it might have been a wastegate issue, so i hooked up a boost gauge strait to the intake manifold and its registering 8psi. was thinking a possible restriction right at the throat of the intake to the block so i might replace the the stock intercooler and change the intake to a greddy type. oh and its got a fuel smell from the exhaust.

any help would be appreciated

thanks,

riley

[DVS JEZ]

Is it stock ecu?

Why did u replace the fp. Reg? Might be making it run evem richer then the stock ecu normally does

What afr is it at on the dyno?

[AngryRB]

maybe compression is down or the cat is blocked?? hmm

[riley]

Is it stock ecu?

Why did u replace the fp. Reg? Might be making it run evem richer then the stock ecu normally does

What afr is it at on the dyno?

fpr was stuffed the seat for the stock one had cracked, its set to 43 psi which is the stock fuel pressure rating, not sure what u mean by afr

[riley]

maybe compression is down or the cat is blocked?? hmm

compression is at 140 even though all cylinders, sounds a bit low but aparently its fine, any way of checking the cat to see if its clogged or blocked?

[luvpsi]

remove the turbosmart FPR get yourself a stock FPR they are good for up to 350rwkw i beleive. thats why you are running rich with a fuel smell.

with the cat just drop down the exhaust and have a look

[riley]

remove the turbosmart FPR get yourself a stock FPR they are good for up to 350rwkw i beleive. thats why you are running rich with a fuel smell.

with the cat just drop down the exhaust and have a look

cheers mate ill give that a go. i thought the rising rate FPR would have done the job as its adjustable and set to nissan specs. wheres the best place to pick one up. having a hard time finding one, hence why i put an aftermarket one on.

[luvpsi]

try any japanese wrecker or better try nissan they may cost more but worth it

[wolverine]

I have a few nissan regs if you need one.

[89CAL]

AFR = Air/Fuel Ratio

Expressed as a ratio, clearly lol. I got near 10:1 AFR's with stock ECU. 140rwkw is all I think I managed with this

[riley]

I have a few nissan regs if you need one.

pm sent

[riley]

AFR = Air/Fuel Ratio

Expressed as a ratio, clearly lol. I got near 10:1 AFR's with stock ECU. 140rwkw is all I think I managed with this

any idea on how to adjust it and check it?

[75coupe]

with an AFR meter, A Tuner and a Dyno

[AngryRB]

compression is at 140 even though all cylinders, sounds a bit low but aparently its fine, any way of checking the cat to see if its clogged or blocked?

Hey isnt that compression a bit off, last time i did mine they were more like 170 give or take 5, maybe its not the problem but that wouldnt be doing things much good would it??? i agree though about the FPR

[riley]

well i just replaced my turbosmart fpr back to the standard one, it runs a little better but still getting a fuel smell (bad) on start up and idle.

i just bought another rb25det s2 so i can rebuild it while i drive this engine into the ground lol. i plan on building the shit out of it and boring it to a 2.7L (unless someone convinces me other wise)

does any one know where the best place would be to buy a rebuild kit and where to get a head gasket to suit a 2.7L?

[PM-R33]

How were you planning on doing the 2.7L? Or haven't you really looked into it yet?

Best bang for buck option would be to do a RB30.

[Rolls]

It is almost certainly the tune, stock tune when running more boost sucks ass, rich and very retarded.

Get a proper intercooler, straight through 3" with a decent muffler, new coils and plugs and nistune it and get a reputable tuner to tune it. Should see 180-190kw fairly easily. Stock it can be as low as 120kw due to there being no timing and it running rich as hell.

Replace the FPR with a stock regulator, no need for the aftermarket one, often less reliable than stock and it is just one more thing to get defected for.

The compression test is fine as long as there is no more than a variance of ~5 or so between cylinders. Mine read 110 when I did it and still made healthy power.

Don't waste your money building it to 2.7L (how?), do a 3L conversion if you absolutely must. The 2.5L is capable of 280-300kw without a rebuild and not much lag, this is more than you need for most circuit cars anyway. Save your cash and get a highflow turbo, Z32 air filter and some bigger injectors, cost you maybe $5k in supporting mods and it will make 250-300kw depending on turbo choice. This is the smartest decision financially, an even smarter decision is sell the car and buy one with your desired power level already that someone else has already tipped all their cash into.

any idea on how to adjust it and check it?

Aftermarket ECU or nistune (highly recommended do a search) and pay a tuner to tune it for your mods, you can't just change stuff and expect it to run right, needs to be retuned for it to run properly.

Edited July 16, 2011 by Rolls

[KerrodR33]

You need to get a nistune Canada, mine's going to Melb in a month to get it done

[riley]

You need to get a nistune Canada, mine's going to Melb in a month to get it done

darwin bro, darwin lol, im 50 years from anything lol

[riley]

It is almost certainly the tune, stock tune when running more boost sucks ass, rich and very retarded.

Get a proper intercooler, straight through 3" with a decent muffler, new coils and plugs and nistune it and get a reputable tuner to tune it. Should see 180-190kw fairly easily. Stock it can be as low as 120kw due to there being no timing and it running rich as hell.

Replace the FPR with a stock regulator, no need for the aftermarket one, often less reliable than stock and it is just one more thing to get defected for.

The compression test is fine as long as there is no more than a variance of ~5 or so between cylinders. Mine read 110 when I did it and still made healthy power.

Don't waste your money building it to 2.7L (how?), do a 3L conversion if you absolutely must. The 2.5L is capable of 280-300kw without a rebuild and not much lag, this is more than you need for most circuit cars anyway. Save your cash and get a highflow turbo, Z32 air filter and some bigger injectors, cost you maybe $5k in supporting mods and it will make 250-300kw depending on turbo choice. This is the smartest decision financially, an even smarter decision is sell the car and buy one with your desired power level already that someone else has already tipped all their cash into.

Aftermarket ECU or nistune (highly recommended do a search) and pay a tuner to tune it for your mods, you can't just change stuff and expect it to run right, needs to be retuned for it to run properly.

ya someone literally just told me it could be an ecu problem.

as for the 2.7 one of my bosses did it to his and recommended i should do that or a rb30, i originally wanted to put a 26 in in it but he told $$$$$$$$$ to me lol

i just moved to darwin so i dont know of any decent tuners in the area. ive already got a walbro 255 fuel pump, a 3" cat back, splitfire coilpacks and iridium sparkplugs and i just changed the turbosmart fpr back to the standard reg.

as it is my only car the idea of building a seperate engine seems like a good way to continue to drive my car untill its ready to go in. im not sure how u go about building a rb27 but ill definatly look into it. if its to much of a stuff around ill just do a 30/25. i just want to do something everyone hasn't already done.