Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I'm releasing a fantastic new oil setup at the moment which is a hybrid dry/wet sump system.

Using a 9L fabricated sump, 2 stage pump and a "surge tank"

The single scavenge stage draws from the 9L sump and fills a 2.5L resiviour (surge tank) mounted inside the wheel arch or engine bay. The single pressure stage draws from the resiviour and pressurizes the engine.

From the top of the resiviour a return back to the sump allows the tank to breath and overflow.

Pro's

As good at controlling surge as a full on dry sump

Far cheaper than a dry sump

Less plumbing

External pump so no breakages!

Lower weight not having the large tank and lines

So far testing has been faultless with perfect oil pressure logs when running on slicks.

I've also just completed the first prototype resiviour to fit into the original space occupied by the washer bottle on the R32.

Ryan I have two Vehicles already doing some laps. One is an r32 GTR and the other is an r33 GTST RB25.

So far pricing is on a case by case basis as I'm insisting on doing the installation myself or atleast controlling it due to the nature of the setup not really having been done before.

Bracket, balancer, and drive kit are identical to dry dump parts. Sump is a modified version on my normal 9L sump, pump is a two stage and the surge tank is obviously custom.

Send me a email if your keen to get a quote and have one done.

  • 4 weeks later...
  • 3 months later...

Sorry to revive this excellent thread but one quick question

Is it still necessary to enlarge the block oil returns and restrict the block feed orifices when running dry sump setup?

Obviously enlarged returns will benefit no matter but if the engine is already assembled then how much off a disadvantage will it be on dry sump setup?

Thanks

  • 2 weeks later...
  • 4 months later...
  • 3 weeks later...

Sorry to revive this excellent thread but one quick question

Is it still necessary to enlarge the block oil returns and restrict the block feed orifices when running dry sump setup?

Obviously enlarged returns will benefit no matter but if the engine is already assembled then how much off a disadvantage will it be on dry sump setup?

Thanks

I'd also like to know this.

Do I still need to run the restrictors in the block? Or will the vacuum in the engine be enough to suck the oil back down without any issues with the bigger head feeds.

I shot you an email also brad, haven't heard back yet, I understand your busy! see if you could look out for it. keen to get this sorted asap.

Also, I have seen many circuit cars run -12 and -10 lines for the dry sump, and then many run -12 and -16 lines.

Is it wrong to run the smaller lines? can it cause issues? or will it all work to an extent?

  • 4 weeks later...

hey, being a noob to dry sump etc, the one thing i havent seen on here is where the pressure line is fed back into the block? doe it run through a cooler and into the block via the filter port???, and wat do u do with the stock pump? take the gears out and block it up or something like that? any info would be much appreciated

  • 2 months later...

Theres another thread?

Referring the thread to Risking (Pro Fabrication) and why the previous poster should probably reconsider pursuing this avenue.

Edit: nm - beaten to it

Edited by warps

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yea - I mean I've seen my fuel pump which is decades old and uh, while I'm not saying this with real knowledge... but I sure get the ick at using anything in the fuel system that produced the state of that pump. Many years ago I went through multiple pumps (and strainers) before I dropped the tank to clean it out with extreme violence. I'm talking the car would do maybe 50km before coming to a halt, which resulted in me cleaning out the filter with some brake cleaner and going on my way. None of my stuff ever looked like what came out of your fuel tank. I don't think I'd be happy with it unless every single component was replaced (or at least checked/cleaned/confirmed to be clean here).
    • I'm not going to recommend an EBC pad. I don't like them. Just about anything else would suit me better. I've been using Intima pads for a while now.
    • Agreed, and in particular the earth strap that should go from the subframe to the chassis but it often broken or left off. There is a section in the R32 workshop manual you can follow for troubleshooting if you don't see anything suspicious, and depending where you are (there is no location on your user profile) you should be able to get your hands on a second hand replacement unit still if needed
    • Yeah they mention as a R34 for 2.5 Turbo...but then again thos "small" were also for R34 by that different site. But i look into it and that 310mm EBC is for R34 GTT. And by those you linked the specs are the same 🙂    EDIT: I found these on one site here: DBA 4000 series T3 DBA42304S They are 310mm...and it says are for R34GTT...are there good? EDIT2: ok they have pads too.  What "color" should i get for street use? I dont want/need some noisy ones...(and if they are not that dusty that is good too)
    • Yeah, shame. Maybe  driver's carpet is available 🙏. I am waiting for both amayama and nangun to confirm.
×
×
  • Create New...