Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

This topic has probably been covered a million times but i cant find it.

Just wondering how much a power an rb25 with stock internals can handle all day every day on a safe tune?

My current project is: rb25det (standard motor)

550cc injectors

hks gt2530 turbo

14 psi boost

apexi power fc

z32 afm

hks pod filter

hks fmic

hks 3.5 inch turbo back exhaust

If there is already a write up can someone please let me know.

Cheers

  • Replies 110
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

awesome. Id be happy with 250-270 and i drive pretty hard, so i reckon i'll be sweet. As long as i get it tuned properly like you said

Your going to be very unhappy then.

As has been said 230kw is doable from one pushing it as hard as it can go. Friend had a HKS 2535 Kai on his and the most that ever saw was high 230s/low 240s.

Far out Mr Ash, hell I try and be specific about "@ hubs" but still occasionally let "@ wheels" slip, its easy to do given the difference in many cases is negligable and its basically more to quantify that it wasn't on an engine dyno. If you want to get pedantic you may as well make a forum rule that every time someone says a dyno result they say:

Ambient Temp:

Ambient Pressure:

Tyre Pressure:

Tyre Size:

Tyre Profile:

Tyre Temperature:

Tyre Type:

Gearbox type:

Dyno Type:

Dyno Correction method:

Air Intake Temperature location:

Ramp rate:

Tie down method:

But thats just taking silly and running with it :)

Far out Mr Ash, hell I try and be specific about "@ hubs" but still occasionally let "@ wheels" slip, its easy to do given the difference in many cases is negligable

It's not occasional in this instance (otherwise i totally agree with ya). Back-to-back testing was done by another user that shows that particular hub dyno reads a solid 40-60kw different. That's a bit more than 2 degree change in ambient temperature :thumbsup:

I say all this because of the thread title "How much can a standard RB25 handle".

People get it in their heads that it's ok to run around making "350rwkw+" when people go around making false claims, when realistically thats really taking a gamble and not a good idea at all.

Over the next 12 months i think we might see a few more 300-320rwkw RB25's fail as there are a few users who have been around that mark now for 2-3 years. So perhaps even 300rwkw isn't that safe.

We have to remember that not everyone wants to go through the expense/drama of a dead motor/rebuild

Fwiw my motor lasted 3 years on 285rwkw pulp and 325rwkw e85 before it finally munched a bearing

That motor was a series 1, 1993 built, 250,000km engine and was a track car of some sort in Japan for god knows how long

Thing saw 7000 revs every time it ran, without fail and was dailied and tracked

End of the day whenever you decide to mod the car and start pushing high 200,s plus on stock engine we all do it knowing all well that theres a chance that the engine might die sooner than expected but theres to many variables how you drive , how much you drive it, and of course the tune.

Of course a car tuned at 350kw which is a daily and never sees all that power being put down will last longer then someone at 280kw thats smashing track work constantly. But atm it seems like the median of what people go on stock is 300kw and also consider running on e85 for abit more security.

This topic has probably been covered a million times but i cant find it.

Just wondering how much a power an rb25 with stock internals can handle all day every day on a safe tune?

My current project is: rb25det (standard motor)

550cc injectors

hks gt2530 turbo

14 psi boost

apexi power fc

z32 afm

hks pod filter

hks fmic

hks 3.5 inch turbo back exhaust

If there is already a write up can someone please let me know.

Cheers

about twice as much as your turbo can deliver.

It's not occasional in this instance (otherwise i totally agree with ya). Back-to-back testing was done by another user that shows that particular hub dyno reads a solid 40-60kw different. That's a bit more than 2 degree change in ambient temperature :thumbsup:

Ash this may interest you as i know your a racepace (killer workshop) fan boy.

We see quite a few cars from Racepace through nowadays and the results we see from our hub dyno are very close to the dyno dynamics dyno (generally 10 up or down) they are running... so hub versus roller is moot.

In fact only last week had a bayside blue R34 gtr with t518z's from there last week which pulled 280kw on mine and he had a dyno sheet for 290 from racepace exact same boost.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The average previous owner for these cars were basically S-chassis owners in the US. Teenagers or teenager-adjacent. I often tell people that neglect is easier to fix than something that was actively "repaired" by previous owners.
    • Update 3: Hi all It's been a while. Quite a lot of things happened in the meantime, among other things the car is (almost) back together and ready to be started again. Things that I fixed or changed: Full turbo removal, fitting back the OEM turbo oil hardlines. Had to do quite a bit of research and parts shopping to get every last piece that I need and make it work with the GT2860 turbos, but it does work and is not hard to do. Proves that the previous owner(s) just did not want to. While I was there I set the preload for the wastegates to 0,9bar to hopefully make it easier for the tuner to hit the 370hp I need for the legal inspections that will follow later on. Boost can always go up if necessary. Fitted a AN10 line from the catch can to the intake hose to make the catchcan and hopefully the cam covers a slight vacuum to have less restrictive oil returns from the head and not have mud build up as harshly in the lines and catch can. Removed the entire front interior just shy of the dashboard itself to clean up some of the absolutely horrendous wiring, (hopefully) fix the bumpy tacho and put in LED bulbs while I was there. Also put in bulbs where there was none before, like the airbag one. I also used that chance to remove the LED rpm gauge on the steering column, which was also wired in absolute horror show fashion. Moved the 4in1 Prosport gauge from sitting in front of the OEM oil pressure gauge to the center console vents, I used a 3D printed vent piece to hold that gauge there. The HKB steering wheel boss was likely on incorrectly as I sometimes noticed the indicator reset being uneven for left vs. right. In the meantime also installed an airbag delete resistor, as one should. Installed Cube Speed premium short shifter. Feels pretty nice, hope it'll work great too when I actually get to drive. Also put on a fancy Dragon Ball shift knob, cause why not. My buddy was kind enough to weld the rust hole in the back, it was basically rusted through in the lowermost corner of the passenger side trunk area where the wheel arch, trunk panel and rear quarter all meet. Obviously there is still a lot of crustiness in various areas but as long as it's not rusted out I'll just treat and isolate the corrosion and pretend it's not there. Also had to put down a new ground wire for the rear subframe as the original one was BARELY there. Probably a bit controversial depending on who you ask about this... but I ended up just covering the crack in the side of the engine block, the one above the oil feed, with JB Weld. I used a generous amount and roughed up the whole area with a Dremel before, so I hope this will hold the coolant where it should be for the foreseeable future. Did a cam cover gasket job as the half moons were a bit leaky, and there too one could see the people who worked on this car before me were absolute tools. The same half moons were probably used like 3 times without even cleaning the old RTV off. Dremeled out the inside of the flange where the turbine housing mates onto the exhaust manifolds so the diameter matches, as the OEM exhaust manifolds are even narrower than the turbine housings as we all know. Even if this doesn't do much, I had them out anyways, so can't harm. Ideally one would port-match both the turbo and the manifold to the gasket size but I really didn't feel up to disassembling the turbine housings. Wrapped turbo outlet dumps in heat wrap band. Will do the frontpipe again as well as now the oil leak which promted me to tear apart half the engine in the first place is hopefully fixed. Fitted an ATI super damper to get rid of the worn old harmonic balancer. Surely one of the easiest and most worth to do mods. But torquing that ARP bolt to spec was a bitch without being able to lock the flywheel. Did some minor adjustments in the ECU tables to change some things I didn't like, like the launch control that was ALWAYS active. Treated rusty spots and surface corrosion on places I could get to and on many spots under the car, not pretty or ideal but good enough for now. Removed the N1 rear spats and the carbon surrounding for the tailpipe to put them back on with new adhesive as the old one was lifting in many spots, not pretty. Took out the passenger rear lamp housing... what do you know. Amateur work screwed me again here as they were glued in hard and removing it took a lot of force, so I broke one of the housing bolts off. And when removing the adhesive from the chassis the paint came right off too. Thankfully all the damaged area won't be visible later, but whoever did the very limited bodywork on this car needs to have their limbs chopped off piece by piece.   Quite a list if I do say so myself, but a lot of time was spent just discovering new shit that is wrong with the car and finding a solution or parts to fix it. My last problem that I now have the headache of dealing with is that the exhaust studs on the turbo outlets are M10x1.25 threaded, but the previous owner already put on regular M10 nuts so the threads are... weird. I only found this out the hard way. So now I will just try if I can in any way fit the front pipe regardless, if not I'll have to redo the studs with the turbos installed. Lesson learned for the future: Redo ALL studs you put your hands on, especially if they are old and the previous owners were inept maniacs. Thanks for reading if you did, will update when the engine runs again. Hope nothing breaks or leaks and I can do a test drive.
    • No those pads are DBA too  but they have colors too. I look at the and imo the green "street" are the best.
    • I’m not sure what happened I told them about sonic tunes free OTS tune and the next the I know .. I was booted..   To funny 
×
×
  • Create New...