Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey all

Going for the old GT35 single conversion for my rb26 but the more and more i search up about wastegates, the more i am confused.. It seems the same size in different brands seem to flow differently

What size and brand wastgate do people recommend for a gt35 0.82 running on a stock rb26 to net perfect boost control? Id like to run boost control without an EBC if possible :D

Snozzle, can't speak from experience as it's not running but I using an old style turbosmart 48mm progate there is a thread that has a few equations to work out what size u need but a little confusing for me.

Tial 44mm MVR gate will be perfect and for under $400 delivered off ebay you can not go wrong :)

Running without a EBC is like trying to run with one hand tied behind your back, yes you can do it but you won't get the best result!

Edited by SimonR32

Tial 44mm MVR gate will be perfect and for under $400 delivered off ebay you can not go wrong :)

Running without a EBC is like trying to run with one hand tied behind your back, yes you can do it but you won't get the best result!

Weren't you guys running larger wastegates to help with boost control? I guess this will also depend on the manifold Snozzle is planning to run.

the current turbosmart gates look quite good. i've personally had success with the HKS GT2 gates and sold a few and all got nice stable boost control regadless of high or lower boost levels. they are not cheap but they are a beautiful gate. come in 50 or 60mm too.

Well i called kyle today and he told me the 44mm is too small and will cause boost spiking, he said the 50mm turbosmart gate is what he would recommend, he said the 44mm may work if its located on the top housing but even then, its not gauranteed and is much more expensive to do.

i think im set on a 50mm gate now which will be run off the manifold, i dont want to touch the rear housing of the turbo

cheers for the input guys

I guess 50mm is way to go,I'm running 44mm TIAL off 6boost mani and it's was working fine for running boost of 19 and 21psi,but once it was turn to 24psi it started spiking so I'm thinking I need bigger gate or new tuner :ermm:

Weren't you guys running larger wastegates to help with boost control? I guess this will also depend on the manifold Snozzle is planning to run.

I ran a 44mm on the gtr with 6boost and it was a tad on the small size but was still holding 18psi flat. New car runs a tial 44mm mvr and will hold 14psi dead flat.

We did use a 60mm tial on brads 34 but that is overkill and sounds gay :-)

50mm would probably be one oversize but work well. I just love these tial 44mm mvr, so small, cheap and work perfect

I ran a 44mm on the gtr with 6boost and it was a tad on the small size but was still holding 18psi flat. New car runs a tial 44mm mvr and will hold 14psi dead flat.

We did use a 60mm tial on brads 34 but that is overkill and sounds gay :-)

50mm would probably be one oversize but work well. I just love these tial 44mm mvr, so small, cheap and work perfect

Yeh I was hinting at the manifold mods required to make a 6boob/44mm combo work :)

I have a synchronic 50mm w/g coming off the turbine housing - which is recommended as the best place for max boost control - on my GT3540 on a Sinco customs manifold (similar to 6Boost) on an RB30. This w/g is highly adjustable so that it could be used to set boost figure quite closely but the Link boost control function will also be used. Car is a couple of weeks off hitting the road so I will be able to report then.

005-2.jpg

Yeh I was hinting at the manifold mods required to make a 6boob/44mm combo work :)

6boost now angles the gate hole on manifolds with the direction of flow as standard and plus a slightly bigger pipe and I think that sorts all the issues that we used to come across :)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi all, Restoring r33 series 1 rb25det. All the heater hoses were on their way out, have replaced them and put it all back together. After testing I noticed a small leak from behind the head on the actual metal water line to the turbo when cars warm. I tried running a longer hose over it but it kept leaking...   I am about to take the (stock) manifold off again😔 to change the water line does any one have any lines they recommend? I was looking at Aeroflow Turbo Oil & Water Line Set but not sure what everyone else recommends. Car is completely stock but want to upgrade turbo eventually. it looks like ill have to disconnect a lot just to replace these lines so if there's anything else recommended to do please let me know. Thank you in advance!
    • From memory, on the R33 GTSt at least, while everyone says "It's not adjustable", I found when I changed clutches in mine, it just needed a small adjustment on the rod length. But be very wary here, as you could end up trying to push the pushrod in the master too far, or blowing out the slave.   Most likely though, if the master/slave isn't bypassing internally or leaking out, then the throw out is the wrong height compared to the fingers on the clutch, so when it moves to disengage the clutch, it isn't 100% disengaged. You can check part of this out too by jacking the car up, having the engine running, put your foot on the clutch and try to engage 1st gear. If it goes in pretty easy (Compared to the ground) and/or the wheels start turning a fair bit and it takes a bit too much brake pedal to bring them back to a stop, this is likely the issue.  I'm not sure if you can adjust the height of the forks etc in these though, it's been that long since I've touched any RB gearbox.
    • That's all good, I thought I was missing some interesting feature! Maybe @PranK can double check if that is something that is meant to be operating or not.
    • I hope that is not something that bad. From what i remember he said that only first gear is "hard" to get in and that he has couple of ideas what to try next but idk 😕  hope it is not gearbox out. I will let you know.
    • If it's not the hydraulics, it is probably gearbox back out. Usually as per @Duncan's post, or otherwise associated with not getting the throwout fork positioned correctly. All the way up to catastrophically bolting shit back together without it being aligned properly and wrecking the clutch/input shaft/flywheel/something else.
×
×
  • Create New...