Jump to content
SAU Community

  

93 members have voted

You do not have permission to vote in this poll, or see the poll results. Please sign in or register to vote in this poll.

Recommended Posts

Just thought I'd throw up a poll to see how everyone shifts whether it be during everyday cruising or on the track. I personally just use my ears and if I'm really going for it then ears + as soon as I JUST feel it stop pulling as hard is when I shift, that's generally anyway not always. What do you think the best sense is or whether technology/equipment is far better?

Edited by Borci88
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/366803-how-do-you-sense-your-shift-points/
Share on other sites

everyday driving, it's usually around 2500 to 3000rpm, but it's more just done instinctively as what provides enough acceleration while still keeping both the rpm and the throttle percentage low to get good fuel economy.

in performance mode though, i use the redline as my guide. the car pulls hard to redline so there's no point changing earlier. if you go buy the "it's feeling like it's not pulling as hard" theory then you also need to pay close attention to whether it pulls as hard once you change gears, because sometimes even though the acceleration rate is slowing down, the acceleration is still faster than in the next gear.

a mix of sound, timing and the feel of the car. It's not 100% though. Hit limiter jumping on a hwy the other day.

SRs tend to drop off a bit before redline so i tend to change a bit earlier, if going hard.

general traffic 3500. then it varies depending on hills, slow cars, and how fast you wanna get around that slow car.

on the track. redline, the gearing i find is beautifully set in these cars, snapping the next gear at redline seems to pull the hardest into the next one and so on. (standard R33)

i find it doesnt really stop pulling before redline, if so only ever so slightly. But those few extra revs will get you higher into the peak rev range for the next gear.

Too many factors... In my Pootrol, I change up at about 1500-4000, depending on how much noise I want to make, (speed is not a factor, cause it is leaisurely no matter what revs..) In the GTR, between 2000-8000, depending on a lot of factors

I plot the torque curve, then calculate the tractive effort at 50RPM increments in each gear throughout the entire rev range. I then calculate the section of the curve that gives the biggest area under the curve for each gear change, which gives me the shift point for each gear. Then I program my shift light for the optimum gear change point for each gear

Not really. Actually the rev limiter does a pretty good job of telling me when to change :thumbsup:

In the Rex somewhere around 6500. In the Hoonda, it's about 8500 (cutout at 8700) and in the Pathfinder about 2500-3000

Daily driving its the seat of the pants. It will depend on road gradient, the speed limit, traffic speed, etc.

On the track, in the lower gears I'll do it by feel/sound. In the higher gears I'll watch the tacho when I can hear the engine getting close to the cutout.

general traffic 3500. then it varies depending on hills, slow cars, and how fast you wanna get around that slow car.

on the track. redline, the gearing i find is beautifully set in these cars, snapping the next gear at redline seems to pull the hardest into the next one and so on. (standard R33)

i find it doesnt really stop pulling before redline, if so only ever so slightly. But those few extra revs will get you higher into the peak rev range for the next gear.

thought about this on the next drive after posting....traffic sucks....no one does the speed limit...usually around 2000 as granny driving seems to be the only way most people drive these days ...:glare:

but in general keeping the boost gauge on the vacuum side of things makes for better fuel economy. so i make that work as best possible.

I tell usually by sound at lower gears and tacho at higher gears, and in practice (on the street) I always short shift before 5000rpm. I probably exceed 5000rpm about once per week at most (daily driving). Can't remember the last time I went past 6000rpm, on the street it just isn't required (theoretically it would be required for a drag race).

On the street in 1st and 2nd gear with any sort of corner I short shift to get into the next gear so I can ride the torque wave through and out of the corner. This means precise throttle modulation is less of a factor and it saves a gear change and means less wear(2nd has more power but can't usually put it all to the ground). Adding bumps into the equation in Sydney just makes it even more relevant.

Just cruising I change at the point the revs start at 2000rpm -2200rpm in the next gear....or what feels right.

Edited by simpletool

Only ever play close attention to the tacho when on WOT

This

Cruising around I just change gears. Not by noise, not exactly by feel... I just throw it to the next cog. Apparently I'm known to shift below 2000 rpm like this, especially in my Subie :laugh:

shift for best economy most of the time , 2500rpm so it sounds like booooar boooarrr :huh:

after a while this can become boring and opportunities arise for some booarrrr rrr ashhhhhhhhhh du dudududu, and repeat lol :no::yes:

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Just trying to get my head around this. At 5psi of boost, you turn on your wmi pump, and then you're using a 3000cc injector, to allow flow upto the actual engine, where you have your 6x200cc injectors and a 500cc injector. If the above is correct, what advantage are you obtaining by having the 3000cc injector blocking flow, is this just incase a line breaks between that injector and the motor you can stop flow immediately? Or are the 6x200cc and 500cc less injectors and just spray nozzle?
    • Welcome! New member myself, but I had an R33 back in 2002. Best advice I could give, based on my experience: if you're running the factory turbo, be very conservative with boost. I made the mistake of just fiddling around with the boost controller and cranking the boost for fun, and the end result was my intake pipes popping off frequently from the constant deluge of oil that was being blown into the recirc by the stressed-out turbo, which itself was siphoning oil from the engine and farting it out both sides of its centre bearing (or something to that effect). If I could do it all again, I would have gotten a new turbo and had a tune dialled in professionally and then just left it alone! Funny you mention the metal shavings in the gearbox, as I had the same thing - the probe plug (magnetic drain plug, essentially) would come out caked with shavings. At least it was doing its job. Not sure if that's just sacrificial wear and part of the deal, or if my gearbox was shagged, but I wasn't abusing it. Enjoy the R33 - they're a dying breed, and if they weren't $35k+ on CarSales in Queensland, I might have picked up one of those again, instead of the 370GT I own now (though I'm loving the 370GT, that big 3.7L V6 just hits different).
    • Howdy folks. I owned an R33 back in 2002, which was thoroughly beyond my capacity (financially speaking) to maintain/insure, so we parted ways in 2004. Fast forward 21 years (to literally yesterday, in fact) and I'm now the proud owner of a 2007 V36 370GT. I'm happily surprised by how much power the VQ37VHR makes, compared to the RB25DET, considering the latter is turbocharged. I had planned to add a turbo at some point but I'm on the fence about whether I'll even need it (though I do love the sudden onset of extra torque). Any other 370GT owners around the traps, I'd love to hear about your experiences with this car (good and bad).
    • Perhaps the answer is... more jacks!* *proper jacks must be used.  
    • I NEVER think about using a scissor jack unless there is absolutely no other alternative. f**king things are dangerous, annoying and stupid.
×
×
  • Create New...